in miniature, each being from one to two inches in diametei', and the wliole ranged
spirally along the stem, the main leaves of whieh drop off' early. The top of the plant
resembles that of a savoy planted lato in tlie season. Van Mons says (Hort. Trans.,
vol. iii.), “ if this vegetable be compared with any other which occupies as little space,
lasts as long, and gi'OWS as well in situations generally considered unfavourable, such
as between rows of potatoes, scarlet runners, or among young trees, it must be esteemed
superior in utility to most others.” Nicol considers it as dc-scrviiig more general culture
in Scotland ; and Morgan (Hort. Trans., vol. ii.) says, it is an excellent sort of winter
green for the table, but not sufficiently liardy to last througli the winter in England.
347fi. Use. T h e sprouts arc used as winter greens ; and at Brussels they are generally served a t table
with a sauce composed of vinegar, b utter, and nutmeg, poured upon them hot after they have been
boiled. The top, Van Mons says, is very delicate when dressed, and quite different in flavour from tho
sprouts.
3477. Culture. The plants are raised from seed, of which 1 oz. may be requisite for a seed-bed 4 fl.
by 10ft. Van Mons, in the paper already referred to, says, “ the seed is sown in spring under a
frame, so as to bring the plants forward ; they are then transplanted into an open border with a good
aspect.” By thus beginning early and sowing successively till late in the season, he says, “ we contrive
to supply ourselves, in Belgium, with this delicious vegetable, full ten months in tlie year ; that is, from
th e end of Julv to the end of May.” The plants need not be placed at more than IS in. each way, as the
head does n o t’spread wide, and tho side leaves drop oft’. In this, as in every other respect, th e culture
is the same as that of the borecole.
3478. Gatl/cring the crop. Morgan says, the sprouts must have some frost before gathered ; but ttiis.
Van Mons assures us, is an erroneous opinion. In Belgium, the small cabbages are not esteemed if of
more than in. in diameter. It is usual to cut off the top about ten or fifteen days before gathering
from the stem. In spring, when the sprouts are disposed to run to flower, th e ir growth is checked by
taking up the plants, and laying them in th e groimd in any shaded spot.
3479. To save seed. Van Mons savs, it is usual to save the seeds indiscriminately from plantswhich
have or have not been topped ; but that he intends to save from th e tops only, hoping thereby to improve
th e progeny. In Great Britain the seed used is generally procured, a t least every second, year, from
Brussels; as the plants are found to degenerate, if grown two seasons from British seeds.
Su b se ct. 5. Borecole.— "Bnissica olerácea var. S sabéllica L., B. o. var. ß acéphala
Dec. Chou vert, or non pommé, Ei'. ; Grüne kohl, Ger. ; Groen kool, Dutch ; Cavolo
operto, Ital. ; Col, Span. ; Kale, Sax. ; and Open Kale, Scotch.
3480. The borecole contains several subvarieties, the common chai'actcristic of all
which is an open head, sometimes large, of curled or wrinkled leaves, and a peculiar
hardy constitution, which enables them to resist the winter, and remain green and ‘fresh
during the season. Morgan says, it is impossible to find a jilant of more excellence for
the table, or more easily cultivated, than the common borecole.
3481. Use. The crown or centre of th e plant is cut off so as to include the leaves, which do not exceed
9 in. in length. It boils well, and is most tender, sweet, and delicate, provided it has been duly exposed
to frost.
34 8 2 . Subi'ariclics. These are —
The green borecole, o y. .... .jKvuttz,Orl oSLibueeriiiaanii booorieeecooliee.
2. The dw a r f 01 C olcbrook D a le borecole. 3. The pnrxne or brown kale.
r cu rlies in Scotland,
9. Th e J en u a lem 'ka le .
10. The B u d a kale, R ussian kale, P russia n k a le , aud b y some
called th e M anchester kale.
11. The pabn-borecole, o r ciiou-p a lm ie r.
12. The lurnip-cabbage, o r tu rn ip borecole (B . o. var. 6 C a ulo-
»'ip a Dee.) ch ou navet, Fr.
13. Neapoliian borecole, chou <lc Naples.
14. The Wobum p e ren n ia l kale, vp’it h fin e ly c u t leaves.
3483. Estimate of sorts. The first four sorts are th e most valuable, and th e most gcneraliy cultivated:
th e fourth sort is almost universally preferred in B rita in ; though Mr. George Lindley considers the
second the best of all winter greens. T h e seventh, eighth, and ninth sorts, being dwarf stemless plants,
resist black frosts, and come in for a late supply; the iifth, sixth, eleventh and twelfth sorts are chicHy
curious p la n ts ; the tenth is tender, but worth cultivating in first-rate gardens; th e fourteenth has been
recommended for cottage gardens.
3484. Propagation. All the sorts, except the last, are propagated by seed, which is sold by w e ig h t;
and for a secd-hcd 4 ft. by 10 ft., Abercrombie says, 1 oz. of seed is necessary. Sow in th e lust fortnight
of March, in April, in the beginning of May, aini in August. T h e first we’ek in April for the principal
crop of German k a le ; and th e first week in August for th e latest spring crop of Buda kale, and which
will be ready to transplant in September. All the sorts may be propagated by cuttings the same as cabbage
(§ 3448,), if tliut method should be considered desirable; one kind may also be grafted on another,
in the herbaceous manner. The Woburn kale is generally propagated by cuttings, because it requires
to stand three or four years before it produces seed.
3485. Subsequent culture. “ When the plants have leaves 1 in. or 2 in. broad, take out some from the
seed-bed, and prick into other open beds, C in. apart, giving water: in which let them have four or flve
weeks’ growth. Those left in tne sced-bed, as well as these, will all acquire proper strength for final
transplanting in Maj', or thence till August. Taking the opportunity of rain, if possible, plant them in
an open compartment, in rows 2^11. asunder, for the first forward plantings in summe r; the others 2 ft.;
allotting the whole similar distances in the rows. Givo occasional water, if dry weather, till they have
struck root. In thoir advancing growth, hoe the plants once or twice, to cut down rising weeds, and to
draw earth about the bottom of the stems, to encourage their growth in the production of large full
heads in projier season, September, October, &c.” At the approach of winter, the stems should be
earthed up, especially of the taller sorts. When the distances between tho plants are such as have been
recommended, th e hills round each plant wil! be of such a size and breadth as to cherish the roots of
th e dwarf varieties, and serve as a protection to the tall sorts in stormy weather.
3486. Gathering. The heart is to be gathered of ail the tall sorts, after which, with the exception of
tlie German kale, the stalks should be pulled up, and taken to th e compost-heap or dunghill; but tho
stems of the sort above-mentioned are to bo left for the sake of th e ir side shoots or sprouts. Of the
dwarf sorts, tlic heart may either be cut off, for which th e Buda kale and other dwarfs are weil su ite d ;
or the leaves may be gathered when the plant begins to grow, which corresponds with th e habits of the
Egyptian and Jerusalem kale.
3487. The Woburn hale is clucfly propagated by cuttings of 6 in, or 7 in., which readily take root, and
CAULIFLOWEB. 825
may be planted at once whore they are finally to remain: the best season is March and April. This kale
shoots up yearly from tlie stool, like a true perennial plant, scarcely ever flowers, and is considered to
produce more than thrice as much as any other borecole, w ith a very great saving of manure and labour.
It is considered by Sinclair as peculiarly adapted for farm and cottage gardens. In cultivating this kale
“ about the beginning of April, or as soon as winter greens are out of season, th e stems are cut down
near to the ground, withm two buds of th e roots, the soil is then slightly forked over, and afterwards
kept clear ot weeds by tho hoe. This is all that is required.” (Hort. Trans., vol. v. p. 299.)
3488. Blanching tke Buda or Russian kale. Wedgowood writes to the Horticultural Society, “ 1 have
been trying an experiment with Buda kale, which has answered completely ; this is blanching it as you
do sea kale, by turning a pot over it, and letting it remain covered till it is quite blanched. When cut
and dressed in th a t state it is excellent, and one advantage will be, that the same plant will furnish two
cuttings, for the sprouts are more delicate than even the original heart of the plant. I used no dung to
force I t ; but this might be applied with great advantage; and I think it would be an excellent substitute
for sea kale.” (Hort. Trans., vol. iv. p. 570.)
3489. To save seed. This can seldom be done of more than one or two sorts in the same garden, on
account of the risk of promiscuous impregnation by bees, the wind, &c. As the seed, however, will keep
for several years, good specimens of one or two sorts may be selected every year in rotation, and placed
in spots distant from each other, in autumn, or early in spring. In planting, trench the root and stem
into the ground, a t nearly double the distance a t which they stood in the plantation. This will allow
abundance of air to circulate round the blossoms and seed-pods. The seed will be ripe in August, when
the pods may be gathered, and threshed o u t; and the seed, after being exposed to the dry air in the
shade for a few days, put up in bags till wanted for use.
Subsect. 6. Cauliflower. — Erássica olerácea var. e Bótrytis D. and Dec. Chou-Jleur,
E r .; Blumenkohl, Ger.; Bloemkool, Dutch ; Cavoli fieri, Ita l.; and Berza florida.
Span.
3490. The cauliflower is ono of the most delicate and curious of the whole of the i?ráss¡ca
tribe, tiie floiver-huds forming a close ffi'm cluster or head, white and delicate, and for the
sake of which tiic plant is cultivated.
3491. Use. The heads or flowers being boiled (generally in a clean linen cloth), are served up as a
most delicate vegetable dish.
¿ 9 2 . The subvarieties in cultivation are chiefly two, th e early and the late.
3493. Propagation and soil. The cauliflower is raised from seed, of which h a lf an ounce is sufficient
for a seed-bed 4^ ft. wide, by 10ft. in length. T h e soil for the seed-bed may be lig h t; but for final
transplanting, it can hardly be too rich, the cauliflower, like the vine, being reputed a “ rough feeder.”
Cleanings of streets, stables, cesspools, &c., ought therefore to be liberally supplied during the growth
o f the plants, when very large heads are desired.
3494. Times o f solving. “ The early and main superior crop, brought to fruit by the longest nursery
attendance; the late summer succession crop, raised by th e shortest course; and the Michaelmas crop,
obtained at th e least expense; are sown respectively at three different seasons. The principal sowing is
made about the end of the third week in August, or a day or two before or after the 2!st, to raise plants
to stand over the winter, under frames, hand-glasses, or half sheltered in warm borders, for the early
and main superior crops n ex t summer. A secondary sowing in February or March, for succession and
lato inferior crops the same year in summer and autumn. A final sowing near the close of May, for
ordinary crops, to yield fruit the following autumn and winter.” Ball finds, that if cauliflowcr-seed is
not sown till th e last week in August, and th a t if the seedlings are not transplanted till the middle or
near the end of November liefore the hard weather sets in, no sort of covering is necessary, nor any other
protection than th a t afforded by a wall having a south aspect. “ In such a border, and without any
covering, young cauliflower plants have uniformly stood well for many successive winters, and have
always proved better and sounder plants for spring planting than such as have had additional shelter.
The seedlings protected with glass frames generally grow too gross in the stems, which become partly
blackened; and the plants being tlms unhealthy, are not fit for planting out. Late raised seedlings,
which spend the winter in the open border, uniformly become the largest and finest table cauliflowers
during the summer, though they certainly do not come in quite so early. Cauliflower plants, it is probable,
are often kiilcd witli too much attention. Seedlings raised late in autumn seem to be very tenacious
of life.” (Caled. Hort. Mem., vol. iii. p. 192.)
349.5. SowiTigs to stand the winter. “ Time of sowing aud first culture. F or th e early and general crops
next summer, make a considerable sowing in August, about the 18th, and thence to th e 24th day of that
m o n th ; or two different sowings betweeu those extremes, a t three or four days’ interval, to raise young
plants to stand th e winter under protection; some being planted out fmally the same year in October
or November, under hand-glasses ; and the others pricked into frames and warm borders, for planting
out finally in th e spring, into the open ground, to succeed the hand-glass fruit, or for the general summer
crop. Sow in a bed of rich, light, mellow earth. After sowing, give occasional light waterings
in dry weather, and shade in hot sunny days, till the plants come up. When these have leaves 1 in. or
U in. broad, in September, prick them into intermediate beds, 3 in. or 4 in. ap a rt; watering and occasionally
sliading from the mid-day sun, till they have taken ro o t; to remain in such beds to gain strengtli
till October.”
349G. Hand-glass division. “ Then towards th e close of October, transplant a quantity finally into
rich groimd, which has been weli dunged, under hand-glasses, in rows 34 ft. or 4 ft. asunder (with intervening
alleys 1 ft. wide), and 3 ft. apart in the row. Set three or four plants centrally under each glass,
about 4 in. apart, with the design of retainmg only one or two of the best in the spring. Give a moderate
watering a t planting, and put on the glasses close till the plants take root, discoverable in a week or ten
days by their showing a renewed growth; then raise th e glasses on the warmest side, 1 in. or 2 in. in
mild days, to admit free air to the plants. Continue the glasses ail the w in ter; but in all temperate
weather, tilt up the south side daily, 2in. or 3 in ., to give the requisite admission of free air, in order to
strengthen and harden the p lan ts; and sometimes, in fine, mild, dry days, you may occasionally take the
glasses off, especially if the plants appear to draw, or get on too fast in growth, as they arc sometimes
apt to run into small button heads in their nursery state, unless for future c u ltu re ; but put on the glasses
early towards th e evening; and always keep them on a t n i ¿ t , and during cold rain, snow, and frost,
shutting them close down in all inclement weather; and during rigorous frosts it would be advisable to
give some protection, with long, dry, stable-litter round th e glasses, or to cover with mats, removing
th e covering when settled mild weather occurs. Thus conforming to the vicissitudes of th e season,
continue the glasses till the close of April or begmning of May; giving larger admissions of free air as
th e warmer season of spring advances; and sometimes in fine mild weather, admit a moderate warm
shower of rain. Meanwhile, in March, if all or most of tho plants nnder the glasses have stood the
winter, be careful to leave only one or two of th e strongest under eacli glass; transplanting the superabundant
into the open garden, in a compartment of rich mellow eartli, improved with rotten dung
digged in a spado deep; setting the plants ft. asunder, and giving water. In thinning the plants, be
careful to take out those witli black shanks; but do not take the trouble to transplant them, for they
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