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the bottom of a large pot, and gradually earthed up. When nearly full grown, it is taken to the cherry
or peach house, for the sake of more air. Another mode of planting in pans or boxes is thus described
byAbercrombie:—“ Plant potatoes of theg row th o f th e season before the last; that is, theproduce of 1832
to be planted in December, 1833, or January, 1834. Potatoes so kept will appear surrounded by a brood
of new potatoes in contact with the seed or parent potato. T h e leaf-buds are removed, and the potatoes
planted in a circle and in layers, in earthen pans or wooden boxes with alternations of fine loose earth.
Such pans or boxes maybe put into sheds, or on shelves in the kitchen, &c. By this treatment, no leaves
will emerge above the soil, and young potatoes may be reared a t any required period.” A similar mode
is described by A. Sherbrook, E sq. {Hort. Trans., vol. i. p. 22-5.) The boxes, containing alternate layers
of light earth and potatoes o fth e preceding year, are placed in a dry covered place, free from frost; they
receive no water, and produce “ good, fine, young potatoes in December.” F or a succession the process
is to be repeated.
3343. Incidental forciTig o f potatoes. Small, young, spring potatoes are likewise obtained from some of
th e winter store of old potatoes, as they lie in the house ; especially where these have been mixed with
sand, and permitted to shoot as they lie, when they produce a few small button potatoes in sp rin g ; some
of which are occasionally brought to market, b u t are oniy proper for immediate use.
3344. Ashworth adopts the following method:—“ In the beginning of April, a quantity of large potatoes
are selected, and laid up in a dry, airy room ; they are turned over four or five times during the summer,
and all the shoots which they make are taken off as they appear. These are used for the seed, and are
planted in succession from th e beginning of September to the end of December, in boxes in the foUowing
manner. In th e bottom of each box, a layer of light vegetable mould, 4 in. deep, is placed, on which
the potatoes are laid, 2 in. apart, and these are covered with another layer of the same mould, and
of the same depth. On the surface of this second layer, potatoes are again laid, and then covered a.s
before ; this is repeated until th e box is full. The boxes may be kept in any of the fire-houses, or in a
warm back shed, and in three months from the time of planting, young potatoes fit for use will be formed.
I t is to be observed, th a t the young potatoes thus obtained are much inferior in quality to those produced
by vegetating plants ; b u t as it is scarcely possible to bring forward potatoes in beds so soon, this
plan is useful, when considered as a means of obtaining a luxury a t so early a season.” {Hort. Trans.,
vol. iii. p. 122.) , ,
3345. Forwarding to raise a crop in the open garden. For this purpose some spread a layer of sets, on
hot dung, or in boxes placed in any warm situation, whether in the light or th e dark. After they have
sprung 3 in. or 4 in., they are to be transplanted in the open ground, which should not be sooner than
May, unless they have some protection a t nights, such as fronds of-fern. spruce fir branches,” &c.
334C. Substitutes fo r forcing potatoes. Dr. Noehden describes the following m ethod of preserving young
potatoes as such for winter use: — “ Byyoung potatoes, I take for granted, are generally understood those
tubers which have not attained th eir full age and growth. In this stage the substance is generally finer-
grained, and more cohesive, than when they are fa rther advanced; they are what is called waxy, and
differ in taste from those which are full grown. If they could be preserved in this state, through the
winter, for the use of the table, it would doubtless be an acquisition : and something of this kind I have
seen attempted. When th e general crop of potatoes was gathered at the usual period of their harvest,
in autumn, th e small tubers, which are frequently disregarded and left to their chance, were picked out
and collected: they were deposited in a box, between layers of sand, and thus kept till th e month of
December. At this time, the box being opened, they were found in perfect preservation, and fit to be
dressed for the table. To give them all the appearance of young potatoes, in a side dish, the tender skin
on them was to be pre served: for peeling them would have destroyed that effect. It was recommended,
for that purpose, when they were to be used, previously to soak them for a certain number of hours, in
water, and then to toss or shake them in a piece of rough flannel or baize, between two persons, backwards
and forwards, and rub them between the hands ; by which operation, th e coarse outer covering is
loosened, and the skin remains clean and delicate, so us to exhibit all the exterior of young growing
potatoes. Upon trying them on the table, I found th a t some had really the fine waxy taste of young
potatoes; but th a t others, and perhaps th e greater part, though resembling the former in size and looks,
had entirely the grain and flavour of the old potatoes. T h a t difference is undoubtedly to be ascribed to
th e different state of maturity a t which the one and th e other had arrived. The mealy ones, though
equally diminutive with th e others, had, in fact, reached th eir full age. and possessed, accordingly, the
qualities which that age would give. Those of a waxy texture were, unquestionably, much younger, and
had not come to maturity when they were taken from the ground. They were m that condition which,
by th e taste, determines the name of young potatoes. If this be so (and every probability «eems to attend
the reasoning), it m aybe concluded th a t it is feasible to preserve young potatoes, in the m anner described,
if they be gathered yo ung: but to distinguish those that are so, in th e common harvest, in autumn, from
those which only appear so, would be difficult. T h e idea, therefore, presents itself, of planting potatoes
expressly for that use; which must be done at a later period than this vegetable is usually planted; let us
say two months later, in June, instead of April. When th e general crop is matured and gathered in
October, those will be still in their young s ta te ; their grain will be still fine, and their texture close: and
if thus taken up, and preserved, according to th e method suggested, it can hardly be presumed that, when
brought to table in winter, they will be different in quality from what they were when they were
re aped: they will, in every respect, be young potatoes, probably not much inferior, if at all, to those raised
on a hotbed. F or it does not appear th a t this mode of keeping them has any effect in promoting their
maturity, a t least, not to any perceptible degree. T h e sand employed should be of as barren a nature
as may be, and, if possible, contain little or nothing of the vegetative stimulus. When th e tubers are
taken out of th e ground, previous to th eir maturity, they will not readily sprout, or emit roots, which circumstance
is a security for the success of the method in question.” {lioTt. TriiTis., vol.iii. p. 48.) Various
modes of accelerating or retarding potatoes will be found under th e article Soldnum tuberbsum, in our
Horticultural Catalogue.
S e c t . X II. Forcing Peas.
3347. The best sort o f pea to force is the genuine early frame. The temperatm'e may
be progressive, “ beginning at 40° or 50°, and rising to 52° or 66°, from the origin of the
plant to the state of flowering, and after flowering increased from 55° to 70 °; or in a
regular heat between the latter limits. F o r hotbeds, the standard temperature may bo
from 50° to 55° for the nursery-bed, and from 55° to 65° for fruiting.”
3348. For forcing peas in a pit, sow as directed for kidncybeans in pots or boxes; and transplant them
when in. or 2 in. high, into the pit, a t nearly the same distances as those recommended for the
kidneybean.
3349. Forcing in a peach or cherry house. For th e earliest crop, some of th e true early frame sort may
be sown in October in th e borders of a cherry house, peach house, or vinery, intended to be forced from
th e beginning of the year. By the time the forcing commences, they will be fit for transplanting, which
is to be done in th e same borcfers, either in a single row, or in more rows, according to th e room. The
distance between the vows may be 15 in. or 18 in. ; and 2 in. in the line. “ In forcing peas,” Nicol
observes, “ they should always he transplanted. They become more prolific, and nm lc ss to straw by that
management, than when they are sown where they are to remain. Indeed, it would be very well worth
while to transplant the earliest crops in the open ground.” {Kal., p . 29.)
3350. Beans may be forced in a similar manner, though this is seldom attempted.
S e c t . X H I . Forcing Salads, Pot-herbs, ^c.
3351. Salads, pot-herbs, and various other culinary plants, are, or may be, forced; but
the practice in Britain seldom extends beyond pot-herbs and salads; though some have
forwarded cabbages, cauliflowers, turnips, caiTots, &c., in this way, as is occasionally
done in Russia and the north of Germany.
3352. Caulifioioer, lettuce, radish, carrot, and onion, M'Phail observes, m ay b e planted o r sown in
Ifobruary, “ on gentle hotbeds of dung or leaves, to bring them in before those in the open ground. They
should have glass frames set over them in cold, frosty, or rainy nights ; which may be taken off in fine
days, or a great deal of air given to them.” Nicol says, “ th e early horn carrot may be sown in January,
on a slight hotbed, or on a border, close by the parapet in front of a pinery, early grape-house, or neach-
house. I he seeds should be sown in fine light earth, in either case, and should not be covered more than
to the depth of a quarter of an inch. If sown on a hotbed, th e seeds may be defended by a frame and
lights, or by hoops and mats, from bad weather, and should be covered always at night. If sown on a
border in front of a forcing-house of any kind, they may be covered with hand glasses. When the plants
come up in either situation, they should have plenty of free air, as they do no good if they be drawn^ they
also should have moderate supplies of water. A thin sprinkling of radish or lettuce mav be thrown iii
along with the ca rrot.”
3353. B ot and sweet herbs, such as parsley, mint, marjoram, chervil, tarragon, &c., are planted or sown
m pots or boxes, and pl.iced in any house, pit, or frame, in a state of forcing, near the glass, and where
they will receive abundance of air in fine weather. They require little or no farther attention, but occasional
watering. They may also be planted in rows in hotbeds or pits.
33.54. Sinall salading, such as cresses, mustard, rape, succory, &c., to be cropped when youu'^ may be
treated as pot-herbs ; the first three will thrive at a greater distance from the light, und may b e ’sown as
practised by th e market-gardeners on the floors or borders of cherry and peach houses.
33.55. Radish. Abercrombie says, “ to obtain the earliest spring radishes, sow on a hotbed of dung or
leaves somc early dwarf short-tops in December, January, or the beginning of February. Having made
a hotbed 2 ft. or 2^ ft. high, in dung, place on th e frame. Earth the bed at top 6 in. deep; sow on the
surface, covering the seed with fine mould, about half an inch thick ; and p u t on the glasses. When
th e plants have come up, admit air every day, in mild or tolerably good weather, by tilting th e upper
end of th e lights, or sometimes the front, 1, 2, or 3 inches, that the radishes may not draw up weak
and long-shanked. If they have risen very thick, th in them in young growth, moderately at first
to about 1 in. or 2 in. apa rt. Be careful to cover the glasses at night with garden-mats or straw -litter’
Give gentle waterings about noon on sunny days. If the heat of th e bed declines much apply a
moderate lining of warm dung or stable-litter to the sid e s ; which, by gently renewing the heat will
forward the radishes for drawing in February and March. Remember, as they advance in growth
to give more copious admissions of air daily, either by tilting the lights in front several inches or’
m line mild days, hy drawing the glasses mostlyoff; but be careful todraw them on again in proper time
.Small turnip-radishes of the white and red kinds may be forced in the same manner. F or raising
early radishes on ground not accommodated with frames, a hotbed, made in February may be
arched over with hoop-bends, or pliant rods, which should he covered with mats constantly’a t night •
and during the day in very cold weather. In moderate days, turn up the mats a t th e warmest side •
and on a fine, mild day, take them wholly off.” Any sort of radish seed may be sown occasionally
for salad-herbs, to be taken, while in the seed-leaves, to mix with cresses and mustard. Sow about once
a week in spring, summer, or any season when radish-salad is required, managing it as other small salad-
herbs.
S e c t . XIV. Culture o f the Mushroom.
3356. The edible mushroom (Agaricus campcstris Z .) has long been held in esteem in
this conntiy. Its pecnliar habits, and the method of propagating it, are so unlike tiiose
of any other culinary vegetable, that gardeners, tiil lately, seem not to have generalised
on its culture. For a long period back, it seems never to have been produced in any
other ivay than on ridges of wai-m d u n g ; no one appearing to advert to the circumstance
of its being indigenous, and tliat it may be gi'own in the open ground in the
■warmer months.
3357. The cultivation o f muslvooms, Nicol observes, “ is a process in gardening, perhaps th e most
singular and curious of any. In the culture of any other vegetable, we either sow or plant something
material, —a seed, slip, or root, which we both see and h an d le ; but in the culture of the mushroom, we
neither sow nor plant any thing visible, at least to the naked eye. Yet it is certain th a t mushrooms are
produced by seeds, which naturally vegetate in th e fields a t certain seasons, and which may be made
to vegetate artificially a t any season, by a certam process, and by a composition, in which the dungs of
certain animals form the chief ingredient. The droppings of horses are found to produce mushrooms
more plentifully, and with greater certainty, than the dungs of other animals. Hence it would appear,
th a t their stomachs have less power to h u rt or to destroy the vegetative quality of these seeds, which, being
collected along with their food, must pass through their intestines, than the stomachs of other animals,
or, th a t the dung of horses is a better nidus for the seeds than other dungs. T h e food of horses, consisting
mostly of corn and hay, may, no doubt, be more replete with the seeds of mushrooms than that of
cows and other stock, which consists chiefly of green vegetables; but even the droppings of horses while
a t grass, or on tares, produce few or no mushrooms, as more particularly noticed below. This fact would
seem to prove either that the seeds are collected in great numbers, and are better preserved by hay or the
straw and chaff’o f oats, than by green food ; or, th at green food may have the effect of destroying them
by its moistness in the stomach, or after having passed through it. It may be further observed, that
animal matter seems necessary to the vegetation of these seeds, or the spawn of mushrooms. Hence we
find them produced plentifully in old pastures, and in cattle -sheds, whether these be frequented by horses,
cows, or sheep, or by all of them ; but the eatable kinds ai-e never found in woods or fields from which
cattle are completely excluded, though the herbage be ever so old. From the stubs of cut or decayed
trees, and about sucli as have fallen and are rotten, many species of fungi spring; most of which are
nauseous, poisonous, or unwholesome. The seeds, too, may lie concealed and dormant in various other
matter, till put into a state of active vegetation b y ap ro p e r temperature, and a proper degree of moisture.”
3358. What spawn is. Spawn is a white fibrous substance, running like broken threads, in such dry
reduced dung, or other nidus, as is fitted to nourish it. These threads produce, when planted, tubercles
in the manner of potatoes. The tru e sort has exactly the smell of a mushroom. Spawn, when
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