the trees and shmhs may he collected together iu compai-tments (a, h), and borders
altogether omitted. , ^ ,
2836. In laying out the compartmenU o f a garden, Forsyth observes, you must
be guided iu a great measure, by the fonn and size of the garden ; bnt do not lay them
out too small, as in that case a great pai't of the ground will be taken up vdth walks and
borders. The best figm-c is a square, or oblong, when the garden is of that fo rm ; bnt
if not, they may be laid out in any otlicr figure that is thought to be most convenient.”
Some of the compartments, in some of our best gardens, Neill observes, are laid out in
beds 4 ft. wide, with nan-ow alleys. So many alleys, no doubt, occuiiy a deal of
ro om ; but advantages of conveniency and neatness, in enabling the workmen to clean
and gather the crop, without trampling the ground, seem to compensate the sacrifice of
space. For cun-ant, gooscben-y, and raspben-y bushes, the compai-tments are, of course,
reserved undivided; and narrow beds arc unnecessary in the case of large perennial
plants, such as artichokes or rhubai-b.
2837 Laying out ihe borders. Abercrombie recommends tho borders next the walis to
be made of prepared soil, “ from 8 ft. to 12 ft. wide, and the same description of soil
extended under the walks, in order to allow a liberal width for the roots to spread without
impediment. Next to the borders, leave a space for a walk entirely round the
garden, from 4 ft. to 6 ft. wide. Some persons also choose to have a border on tlie
inward side of the walk, for the cultivation of espaliers, and esculents of dwai-f g row th ;
others divide the central parts at once into main compartments or divisions. ^ The walks
or alleys must be regulated by convenience of access. Where tho ground is extensive,
the centre should be traversed by a walk, with parallel borders, from which cross walks
may branch, if necessary.” (iV. Gard., p. 4.) The borders under the walls, horsyth
observes, should, in the inside, be from 10 ft. to 20 ft. wide, according to the size of the
garden, to give full liberty to the roots of the trees to spread. Thoro should be a footpath,
about 2* ft. from the wall, for tho greater oonyeiiience of naihng the trees, gathering
the fruit, &c. This walk should be from 2 ft. to 2J ft. wide (to admit a barrow or
• baiTow-cngine for watering the trees), and covered with sand ; or, what is better, coal-
ashes, about 2 in. or 3 in. thick, but without any gravel or rubbish below. ( Tr. on Fruit
Trees, p. 294.) The borders for wall trees, according to Nicol, should not be less than
12 ft.’in b readth; but 15 ft. or 18 ft. is not too much; that is to say, the soil should
be prepared for these breadths, if it be not naturally good, and perfectly answerable fov
the diiibrent kinds of trees to be planted.
2838. The preparation o f fruit-tree borders. I t is not enough to provide good surtace
soil for fruit-tree borders; the ground must be thoroughly drained, and the roots must
be prevented from penetrating into tlic subsoil, or, in other words, kept within a few
inches of the surface of the ground.
2839. There cannot be a greater mistake than making fruit-tree borders too deep. _We
see borders,” says Errington “ made by an excavation deep enough for the bed of a river,
which is filled with materials containing richness more than sufficient to grow the bloated
tree to tho size of an immense standard. Here, while the soil is new, and possessing
some strength, the iU-fated gardener may ply his nippers all the year round in removing
robbers ancl superfluities of his own creation; and in two or three years may rival the
globe for twigs. By degrees, the immediate proportion of manures contained in the soil
comes to as fine tilth as though it were riddled. Thence, in wot seasons, ensues entire
stagnation, and in very dry ones, mddcw, and other baneful diseases^. ^These evils
arise in consequence of the soil’s losing nearly all assistance from the purifying and invigorating
effects of the atmosphere; for it is either swamped or baked, and in both
cases, it is, as it were, hermetically sealed. In anothei- case, borders arc made by
trenching abundance of mamu-es into loose sandy soils on a hot gravelly bottom, better
adapted for barley or turnip culture, than for a class of trees, of which sound loams arc
the life and soul. Hcncc, at first, while the dung lasts, together with moderately moist
seasons, the trees appear to flourish in grand style, and the proprietor chuckles over
them, well pleased that he did not follow the advice of those who (knowing the unstable
character of such soils) suggested to him the necessity of strengthening the staple ; all
this he now perceives (or thinks ho does at least) would have been unnecessaiy expense.
Tiio manures in such soils, once exhausted in producing the mere framework of a tree,
which the soil can never long maintain, nothing more is needed than a heavy crop of
fruit for a season or two, a burning hot summer, and some spade_ cidture over the
surface roots, to complete the career of the tree, and then the sooner it is set fire to the
better.” (Errington, in Gard. Mag., vol. x. p. 265.) “ The soil in the most productive
pai-t of Kent,” says a writer in the Gardeners’ Chronicle, “ is locally c ^ e d hassock or
stonc sh atter; the surface of this is a mixture of saudy loam, largely intermixed with
small pieces of light-coloured Kentish rag-stone; it is from 6 in. to 2 ft. deep, on solid
stone rock.” In this land, “ fruit trees of all sorts ilonrish aud produce abundantly;
even peach aud pear trees of the most delicate kinds gi-ow with the greatest luxiu-iance,
and arc free from disease. To what are we to attribute this result ? Fruit trees growing
in the kind of soil just described produce short-jointed wood ; when the roots are
stimulated by rich manures, rampant luxuriant branches arc produced ; when they
descend to a distance beyond the genial influences of the atmosphere, they absorb a large
quantity of water, which the leaves are unable to get rid of by perspiration, and the inevitable
result is green canker, and a whole host of diseases. Such trees continue to grow
to a late period of the autumn, when the lowness of the temperature, and the absence of
sunlight render it impossible for tliem to give off thcir superabundant water by perspiration,
the only means by wliich all trees and plants are enabled to part with it.” On
the other hand, trees in the stonc-shatter soil “ groiv slowly ; their tissues become perfectly
organised as they proceed, and are not liable to be acted upon by accumulated moisture.
As the days become short, and the power of the sun declines, the motion of the fluids
and the action of the cells gradually cease, when the whole system is in unison with the
course of nature ; in winter the roots are almost dormant, the branches are short-jointed,
and well ripened, and all are prepared to withstand the severity of the weather, and to
awaken iu spring full of life and blossom,” (Keane, in the Gardeners' Chronicle ibr
1848, p, 781.)
2840. Mode o f forming an impervious bottom to fmit-tree borders. Wlicn the subsoil
is not rocky, the space intended for the border should be cleared out to tlie depth and
width required, and the bottom of the excavation should be laid with a floor of bricks,
tiles, flagstones, slate, or in fact any material of a similar nature, the spaces between the
bricks, &c., being filled up with mortar or concrete. The depth and width of the
border vaiy from 18 in. to 2 ft. in depth, and from 6 ft. to 12 ft. in width, some of the
best practical gardeners advising the confinement of the roots of the trees to a very
limited space. “ I only allow 18 in.,” observes Mearns, “ for the depth of soil in my
borders, upon a well laid paved bottom, hollow underneath ; with a flue, or hot-water
pipes, if either of tliem can be had, in the hollow ; the joints being securely cemented, to
prevent the roots from striking through into the chambering. I wall in my roots at 6 ft.
or 8 ft. from the main wall, although less would be sufficient ; and place [ilugs in shafts,
through the paved bottom, at suitable distances, to enable me to drain it pcifcctly in
very rainy weather, hca-vy falls of snow, or rapid thaws.” (Mcäms, in Gard. Mag.,
yol. X . p. 143.) In the kitchen-garden at Trentham, the bottom to the fhiit-tree borders
is laid with concrete, (See Gard. Chron., for 1848, p. 719.) In other places pebbles
are used ; or the ground is made hard by artificial means. Vai-ious plans have been recommended
for the latter purpose; but oneof the best is that given by Nicol, and which
is as follows : — Clear the border its wholc length to the depth required. Then lay the
bottom in a sloping manner fi-om the wall to the walk, giving it a fall of 6 in. or 8 in.
Run a drain along by the conjunction of the border and walk, a few inches lower than
the bottom tlms foi-med, which shall be capable of completely draining off both under
and surface water. I t may be a rubblc-drain, or a box-drain, according to necessity.
Now, lay over the bottoni, thus fonncd and smooth, 2 in. of good earth, if clayey so
much the better, which pulverise and pass the roller over ; then 1 in. of clean pit or
river gravel, which also pass the roller over ; anotlier inch of earth, as above, wliieh also
ro il; and lastly, an inch of gravel, also, as above. This should be done ivith the
materials rather in a dry state ; but wlien completed the ivholc should be moistened
moderately with a watering-pot, and rolled until tlie surface acquires a hard shining
consistency. Keep rolling and watering alternately, till the wliolc becomes firm and
glazed, and till the earth and gravel be intimately mixed and incorporated. Thus may
a bed be formed for the roots of fruit trees, much superior to one of stone or brick ; at
an expense gi-catly less ; and of a nature more kindly, ivhich no root will penetrate.
Prepared soil should be thrown in, having been previously laid up in a ridge, along the
outer edge of the border, before the floor thus made get damaged by wet, or other accidents
; and care must be taken that at no future period it be disturbed in digging or
trenching the border.
2841. Draining is absolutely essential to fruit-tree borders. In a vciy able article on
underground climate in the Gardeners' Chronicle, Dr. Lindley observes that “ it is by
perfect and skilful drainage that underground climate is improved, and by that alone.”
“ Why is land improved by good drainage ? ” Many believe the ivholc advantage consists
ill removing water ; but water is not in itself an evil ; on tbe contrary, it is the food
of plants, and its absence is attended with fatal results. “ But undrained land is not
merely wet, it is water-logged. All the interstices between the pai-ticles of earth being
filled with ivater, air is necessarily absent, except that small quantity ivhich is dissolved
in the water. In this way, plants are deprived of the most essential part of their food.
But when the water is removed, air takes its place and holds in suspension as much
ivater as roots can thrive upon ; for it is not ivatcr in a fluid state which plants prefer ;
it is when it is in the state of vapour that they feed upon it best.” (Gard. Chron. for
1849, p. 35.) “ The reason why drained land gains heat, ancl water-logged land is
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