PRACTICE OF GARDENING. Rmx III.
of th e largest-sized fruit, this can be best accomplished by leaving the vine in a vigorous and flourishing
state.” This state, according to Mr. Lindlcy, is to be attained (all other circumstances being favourable)
by the alternate system of fruiting one shoot every year, to be cut down at th e winter pruning, for the
purpose of furnishing a shoot th e following year to succeed it. {Lindley's Guide, &c. p. 223.) This, in
short, is what Mr. M Fhail calls the long or new method of vine-pruning ; what Mr. Speechly called the
alternate system ; and what Mr. Mearns has described in § 3134. We agree with Mr. Lindley in con-
sidering this mode as decidedly the best.
3133. Thinning the leaves and fr u it. “ Every one of penetration and discernment,” Nicol observes, “ will
admit the utility of thinning the berries on bunches of grapes, in order that they may have room to swell
fully ; and, furtiicr, th a t of supporting the shoulders of such clusters of the large-growing kinds as hang
loosely, and require to be suspended to the trellis or branches, in order to prevent the bad effects of damp
or mouldiness in over-moist seasons. Of these, the Hamburgh, Lombardy, Royal Muscadine, Raisin,
St. P e te r’s, Syrian, Tokay, and others, should have their shoulders suspended to the trellis, or to the
branches, by strands of fresh matting, when th e berries are about the size of garden peas. At th e same
time, the clusters should be regularly thinned out, with narrow-pointed scissors, to th e extent of from a
fourth to a third part o fth e berries. The other close-growing kinds, as the Frontignans, Muscats, &c.
should likewise be moderately thinned ; observing to thin out the small seedless berries only of the
Muscadine, Sweetwater, and flame-coloured Tokay. In this manner, handsome bunches and full-swelled
berries may be obtained ; but more so, if the clusters on overburdened plants be also moderately thinned
away. Indeed, cutting off the clusters, to a certain extent, of plants overloaded and pushing weak wood,
is th e only means by which to cause them to produce shoots fit to bear fru it next year ; and this should
be duly attended to, so long as th e future welfare of th e plants is a m atter of importance.”
3139. Remedies fo r bleedv If the pruning has been timely, the vine is not liable to bleed. When the
sap rises before th e wound is healed, bleeding ensues, and is not easily stopped. This retards the
p l a n t ; aud, out of doors, the loss of a few days is, in some seasons, irrepara lile: but, iu other respects, tho
consequences of bleeding are not so disastrous as many seem to apprehend; and a gardener is sometimes
surprised by a subsequent crop of uncommon goodness. Innumerable remedies for bleeding have been
proposed: the following rank among the best. Sear the place, and cover it with melted wax, or with .
warm pitch spread upon a piece of b lad d e r; or peel off the outside bark to some distance from the place,
and then press into the pores of th e wood a composition of pounded chalk and tar, mixed to the consistence
of p utty.” {Abercrombie.) Knight’s remedy consists of four parts of scraped cheese to be added
to one p a rt of calcined oyster-shells, or other pure calcareous earth, and this composition pressed strongly
into th e pores of the wood. “ This done,” he says, “ the sap will instantly cease to flow.” {Hort. Trans.,
vol. i.) In America a potato is stuck on the end of the shoot, and found effective. {Sill. Journ., 1833.)
When the vine is in full leaf, it is not liable to bleed when c u t ; therefore the largest branches may be
cut off during th e growmg season with perfect safety.
3140. Stirring the soil, and culture of the borders. “ T h eb o rd ers,” Abercrombie observes, “ should bo
kept a t all times clear from weeds. In w inter and spring, the surface of an open border should be stirred
with a three-pronged fork, but not so deeply as to injure the roots. The design is merely to revive the
surface.” A week or two previously to commencing to force, say about the middle of Janua ry (forcing
to begin the 1st of F ebruary), Nicol directs the border to be pointed or forked over carefully ; and to be
watered all over with th e drainings of the d u n g h ill; this should be repeated a t the end of four or five
days, and also again at a slight in te rv a l; giving as much as will sink down to the deepest placed roots
and fibres. The border on the outside should also be covered, or ra th e r should already have been covered
to a good thickness, with stable-yard dung ; not, however, mere litter, but good fresh dung, the juices of
which may be washed down to the benefit of the roots. T h e intention of this covering is to answ'er as
a manure ; and also to keep severe frosts from the roots, from tho time the sap is p u t in motion, till the
spring be so far advanced as that the plants shall sustain no injury. Vine borders ought never to be
cropped.
3141. Time of beginning to force and care of outside stems. T h e best time to begin to force is the
1st of March, if the object be simply to obtain grapes in perfection moderately early. In projiortion as
the s tart is accelerated before this, th e habits of a deciduous plant, and the adverse state of the weather,
leave a greater number of obstacles and discouraging contingencies to intercept final success. Managers,
however, who work a number of houses, and who have to provide, as well as they can, against demands
for grapes in early succession, begin to force about th e 21st of December, aud successively, in other
houses, th e 1st of January. 1st of February, and so on. Attempts are even made, by bold speculators, to
lay forward for a crop in March, by begmning to force in August, and getting the fruit set before
November: b u t such labour and expense is often lost. The period of ripening is not early in proportion
to th e time of beginning: when the course of forcing coincides nearly with the natura l growing season,
ripe grapes may be cut in five months or less ; when short days compose a third p a rt of the course, in
about six m onths ; when the course includes full half th e winter, it will last neariy seven months. At
whatever season forcing commences, the stems of vines planted outside th e house should be guarded
from the stagnating effects of cold by a bandage of hay, or moss and bast matting, round the bole, and
a mulching of dry litte r over the root. The excluded stems must be protected in th e same way a t the
commencement of the forcing season. {Abercrombie.) Griffin keeps the stems of his vines inside the
house moist, from the time of beginmng to force fill th e bunches show themselves, by daily watering
them with a syringe. This, he says, contributes materially to the production of vigorous shoots. Some
gardeners wrap the stems round with moss, which they keep moist for two or three months, ibr th e same
purpose. In hard forcing, practices of this sort arc particularly necessai-y.
3142. Temperature and ventilation. “ Begin,” Abercrombie says, a t 50° min. 55“ max. In a week
raise the minimum to 55°, and the maximum to G0°. T ill the time of budding, th e temperature should
not exceed C0° from artificial he;it, and 64° from collected sun heat. After the buds arc in full motion,
it may be raised to 60° min. 64° max. from firo, and 68° from sun heat. By the time the bloom expands,
the lowest effect from the flues should be 66° : th e highest may be 72°; and when the sun’s influence is
strong, let it be accumulated, by confining th e interchange of air to th e ventilators, till the heat rise to
80°. After the fruit is set, th e minimum sliould be 75°, and fresh air copiously admitted. Air may bo
given pretty freely by the sashes till th e leaves unfold. Before the foliage is fully out, begin to keep the
house close, admitting air moderately ; and particularly observe to have a sultry, moist climate while the
blossom is coming out, and until it is off and the fruit set. While the fruit is swelling and ripen
ripening, the
plants will want abundance of heat and a ir.” {P r. Gard., p. 651.) M'Fliail recommends a 1 little litt air to
.
be given during a part of th e day while the thermometer is above 6-5°, and th e sun shines in th e winter
months, and abundance in the summer season when th e heat exceeds 75° or 80°.
3143. Setting the fr u it. For this purpose a free circulation of air is essential, and some varieties which
are bud setters require to have their flowers fecundated w ith the pollen of other sorts which are in bloom
a t the same time. T h e black Damascus is a grape which requires setting in this manner {Gard. Mag.,
vol. i. p. 309.), and also the Tokay. The pollen is taken from the one flower and applied to the other by
means of a soft camel-hair pencil.
3144. Grapes o f so?ne kinds are very^ apt to shrivel. Various remedies have been proposed for th is ; but
th e most efficient is found to be, a free circulation of warm a ir. F or this purpose artificial heat will
frequently require to be applied in the day time when th e weather is cloudy and the air charged with
moisture, even in tho summer season. The next point of importance to prcservo grapes from shrivelling
is a dry subsoil, and a border over it, not more than 18 in. or 2 ft. deep.
3145. Watering and steaming. Vines require a plentiful supply of water from the time the fruit is well
B o o k III. CULTURE OF TIIE VINERY. 791
set till it begin
hold water entirely when t
3146.„ ...„ 0 ..^.,v.—
s to colour, particularly when th e berries become transparent at the last swelling. Wlth-
11 tlie grapes approach maturity.
. Ripening the wood. Abercrombie directs, “ if the fruit be not off by the middle of .August, the
continuation of fin^ ......— a j .i-..a-.-a,........................................ , . ... , . . . « . . .
fine dry weather, or of the heat dependent on the natural climate, will hardly be sufficient
to ripen the wood ; and, therefore, as soon as the external air declines to 68°, resume gentle fires, m orning
and evening, so as to keep the minimum temperature of the house to 70°. — • •
■ • " r f r e ............................................
The maximum need not
exceed 75° in sunshine ; for fresh a ir should circulate at every proper opportunity,
th e shoots of th e season haye ceased to grow, and turn brownish a t bottom, and th e leaves beg
Proceed thus until
.................... OT- - . --------------------------— ...............OT leaves begin to f a ll;
indications th a t th e wood is ripe, when th e first and last are not caused by a deficiency of h ea t.” He
adds, “ if th e weather continues warm after the fruit is cut, take off the glass frames ; as the shoots will
n p en th e better under full exposure to it. In October, however, it will be advisable again to put on the
frames, as well by shelter to assist the ripening of th e wood, if that is not complete, as to protect the
house from injuiy, when rough wintry weather may be expected.”
3 1 4 7 . Exposure and resting o f tke wood. “ Some managers,” Abercrombie observes, “ leave the house
quite exposed when the vines have done growing; and, whether it be covered or not, there should be
constantly a circulation of air through it. Vines which have been exposed to the weather, or freely to
th e dry air, iu a state of rest, when forced after a proper
interval, generally break a t almost every eye.” The rest
proper to a deciduous plant cannot be given to vines
where the branches are kept subject to th e influence of
a permanent heat after the leaves are fallen, as in the
case of vines grown in pine or other stoves. The top of
its stem, with its branches, must therefore be withdrawn
from tlie house immediately after the fall of th e leaf, to
remain on the outside till it be proper again to force the
plant. Abercrombie says, “ the branches wil! require no
covering in this climate but many gardeners lay them
down, or tie them to stakes, and cover them with litter
or mats.
3148. S. Gallon describes apian ofcxposingthe branches
of vines growmg in a stove to the external air, without
th e necessity of suspending th e forcing or heat in the
stove, or of drawing the stems back through apertures
by which they are introduced into the house. This was
p ut iu practice a t Derby, in th e garden of Joseph Strutt,
Esq., of that town, where it has been in successful use
for above liftcen years. The foundation wall in front of
the house is capped with a stone sill (y ? g .7 7 I.n ); the
front upright lights (&) move on centre pins, and can be
taken out from their places w ithout disturbing the raftcr-
plate (c), or the uprights which support the plate : these
lights, when taken out, can be fixed bythe lower ends to
the inner side of the stone sill, th e spaces o fth e uprights
being lilled by other pieces, whilst the tops are held by
a board {d) loiigitudinaliy fixed to the ralter by hinges
{e), and capable of being raised and let down a t pleasure.
When the vines arc to be exposed, they are unfixed from
th c ir places between the rafters, and laid down on the
stone sill {a) ; the front upright lights {h) are then taken
out and fixed on th e inner side of the sill {f ), thus leaving
the whole of thewine on th e outside of the house,
and under cover, protected from rain until it is desired
to put it again into heat, when the situation of th e uprij
their former situation. {Hort. Trans., vol.iv. p. 567.)
simplc.st form in the Gardener's Magazine, vol. vii. p. 411
/ ■¿fell
?
-
S
K
- a .
¥
n 1 '
_ . 1 ,
„ 1 1
lit lights is changed, and they arc replaced in
This mode will be found reduced to its very
S u b s e c t . 2 . Particular Modes o f cultivating the Grape, adapted to particular Situations.
3149. The he particular ;
modes o f cultivating the grape ivliicli we shall now enumerate,
refer to its cu culture ill pineries,„ . ot.greenhouses, and other plant stnictm- cs, by dung- heat in
*
hotbed frames, temporary frames, and glass covers, liand-glasses, and cultivating for
retarding maturation.
3150. Growing the vine in stoves, greenhouses, Sjc. Abercrombie, in a comparison between the h o thouse
or general stove and vinery, justly observes, that the former •' has many circumstances of inferiority
to the vinery ; and although its shades of inconvenience or imperfect accommodation are not weichtv
enough to forbid the dedication ol' any spare room to the vine, yet they are sufficient to confer very great
crediton the manager who obtainsagood crop of fine-flavouredgrapesunderthem.” {P r.G a rd p 657 )
Speechly considers th a t the vine and pine may be advantageously grown together ; b u t subsequent experience
having led to the culture of pines in pits, most gardeners prefer growing them separately
Vines are grown under the rafters in greenhouses, conservatories, and in most kinds of forcing and other
hothouses ; but, as the gardener who understands th e ir culture in the vinery and pine-stove can be a t no
loss in any case of that sort, we do not consider it necessary to introduce here any thinir farther on the
subject.
3151. Forcing vines by dtcng-hent. Justice, Lawrence, and Switzer, state instances of this being done
on wooden walls in thcir time. Fletcher, a market-gardener near Edinburgh, has practised it with great
success in a glass case, keeping constantly, till the fruit is about to ripen, a heap of dung, or dung and
weeds, in a state of fermentation in the area of the house ; and extensive forcing of this kind has lioen
iractised by a gentleman farmer of East Hornden, in Essex, an account of which will bo found in the
lort. T ram ., vol. ii. The dung is laid in a ridge along the floor of the
house, as shown in the section,y?g’. 772.
3152. Temporary frames and glass cases have been constructed by various
gardeners, foreign as well as British, but more especially those of
Ilolland and Flanders, against walls of vines. Sometimes a temporary
furnace and flue is built, or hot-water or steam pipes are laid on, and at
other times a dung or tan bed is resorted to, and very excellent crops are
obtained. T h e process is so simple, and so obvious to every gardener
who can manage a common cucumber-frame, th a t it is unnecessary to
enter into details, (See Gard. Mag., vol. i. p. 168.; and vol. iii. p. 390.)
31.53. Ripening grapes under hand-glasses. About twenty years ago, a
market-gardonev a t Bath published a plan of ripening grapes under common
hand-glasses. Ho planted the vinos in a soil composed in great part
ta L
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