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t
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bottom, if not naturally mild and dry, to be drained and paved. The soil should be a sandy loam, or
light hale garden-earth, made moderately rich with stable-yard dung well reduced, or with other light
compost. If a small portion of lime or a moderate quantity of marl were mixed with it, so much the
better. T h e soil for cherries to be forced in pots or tubs should beconsidcrably richer than the above.”
Torbron uses fresh virgin soil and rotten dung. {Uort. Trans., vol. iv. p. 116.)
3193. Choice o f sorLs. MThail, Nicol, and all gardeners, agree in giving the preference to the May-
duke. Nicol says, ” None of the other kinds set so well, except the Morello, which I do not hesitate to
say well deserves a place : it is a good bearer, and the fruit, when forced, acquires a superior size and
flavour.” (ATitF, p. 29.5.) ^
3194. Choice o f plants. MThail takes standards of different heights in a bearing state ; Nicol, clean,
healthy, young plants, th a t have been one or two years in training against a w a ll; Torbron, trees eight
or ten years from the bud, and selected of such various heights as are best suited to the size of the
house.
3195. SiUtation o f the plants in the house. M T h a il and Torbron plant in rows, beginning with the
tallest a t the back of the house, reserving the shortest for the front, and letting them slope to the south
gradually, somewhat in the form in which plants are set in the greenhouse. (G. Rem., 146.: Uort.
Trans., vol. iv. p. 116.)
3196. Time o f planting. According to Nicol and M T h ail, January and February : to Torbron, early
m the autumn. > j
3197. Fruning. “ Trees planted in Janua ry may be pruned about th e middle or end of March. Dwarfs,
planted against the trellis, should be well cut in ; that is, each shoot o fth e last year should be shortened
back to three or four buds, th a t the plants may throw out a sufiiciency of young shoots to lill the rail from
the bottom. T h e dwarfs, planted in th e border as little standards, need not be headed in so much ; as
th e intention is to have them fruitful, and th a t they may grow little to wood from the beginning. Their
short .stubby shoots need not be touched, unless bruised or h u rt in transplanting; shortening back tho
longer and weaker ones only, a lew inches, according to their strengths. T h e riders, planted against
th e back trellis, may be treated very much in the same manner ; th e sole intention being to obtain afew
crops of them while the dwarfs are making wood and filling their spaces. In November following, the
trees may be pruned for th e succeeding season. In order to produce wood to fill the trellis as soon as
possible, the dwarfs should be pretty much headed in. The shoots may be pruned very much in the
manner of the trees in the early house, shortening no shoots th a t are fully ripened, except a few of those
a t the extremities of th e tree, in order to make them throw out others for its full extension upwards
nex t year. November is also the proper time for pruning an established cherry-house, preparatory to
forcing next year.” “ T h e circumstance of forced cherry trees making very little wood,” observes Mr.
Thompson, “ renders it expedient th a t pruning should be resorted to in order to produce a moderate
quantity of young shoots and healthy leaves, to generate sap, and induce fresh vigour in th e t r e e : this,
and thinning superabundant fruit-spurs, would certainly be a great preventive in regard to the dropping
of th e blossoms, and failure in the stoning of the fru it.”
3198. Summer pruning. Very little of this is requisite: such water-shoots or breast-wood as arise
among the spurs are to be pinched off as they appear ; laying in such shoots only of this description as
may be wanted to fill an occasional vacancy. Train in the summer shoots of the dwarfs as they advance
at the distance of about 8 in. or 9 in. from each o th e r; and otherwise observe th e general rules for pruning
cherries on walls and espaliers.
3199. Stirring the soil. After pruning, the borders are to be forked up, and a little well-rotted dung,
mixed with sand, worked in, if thought necessary. In summer, they may be slightly stirred on the surface,
and weeded to keep them fresh, clean, and n e a t; and where a p a rt of th e border is outside the house,
cover with horse-dung or litte r in the early part of the season.
3200. The time o f beginning to force is sometimes December, but more generally January or February.
“ Newly planted trees,” Nicol observes, “ will bear gentle forcing next spring, from the first or middle
of M arch; which ought to be considered merely as preparatory to forcing them fully, from about the
first of February, the third year.” Torbron, if the trees had been removed with good balls, admits of
gentle forcing the first spring, but prefers deferring it till the third year. He says, “ I have had an
abundant crop of fine cherries from trees which had been planted only a few months before forcing, but
would not recommend th e risking a whole crop unless the trees have been longer established.” Where
cherries are to be ripened early in the season, he “ shuts in about the beginning of December, and lights
th e fires about the third or last week of that month.” {Hort. Trans., vol. iv. p. 116.)
3201. Temperature. Abercrombie begins at 40°, “ and throughout the first week, lets the minimum be
40°, and the maximum 42°. giving plenty of air. By gradual advances in th e second, third, and fourth
week, raise the course to 42° min. 45° max. In strong sunshine, admit air freely, ra the r than have the
temperature above 52°, by collecting the warm air. In the fifth and sixth week, th e artificial minimum
may be gradually elevated to 45°, but the maximum should be restrained to 48° from fire-heat, and to
55° from sun-heat, until the plants are in flower. After the blossoms are shown, and until the fruit is
set, aim to have the heat from the flues a t 48° min. 52° max. At this stage, maintain as free an interchange
of air as the weather will p e rm it; and when th e sun-heat is strong, do not let th e temperatu
re within exceed 60°. As the fru it is to be swelled and ripened, the requisite heat is 60° min. 65°
max.”
3202. Watering. M T h a il waters occasionally at th e root and over the top, till the trees are in blossom;
but when the stones in the fruit are become hard, th e trees may be washed all over occasionally with clean
water, not too cold. “ L e t this be done in a fine sunny morning, and take care not to spatter th e fruit
with any kind of d irt. In April, when th e cherries are grown large, give the border a good watering now
and then, which will enable the trees to swell their fruit to a good siz e : by keeping them in a healthy
growmg state, the fruit will be fine flavoured, and the trees will make strong flower-buds for the ensuing
season. If the fruit are not ripening, wash the trees occasionally, in a fine sunshine morning, with sweet
clean water.” Torbron says, “ From the time th e flower begins to open, till th e fruit is completely
stoned, the soil should be but sparingly watered ; but when the stoning is effected, water maybe applied
to th e roots freely, till the fruit is nearly ripe.” {Hort. Trans., vol. iv. p. 119.)
3203. A ir. “ fn forcing th e cherry, it is essential to continué a free renovation of a i r ; always sustaining
th e minimum heat in the different stages. T h e blossoms will sometimes fall abortive, or the young fruit
drop off after setting, from no other cause than a stagnant atmosphere.” At first beginning to force,
MT’hail gives plenty of air night and day. In February, when the trees are in blossom, “ let air be at
th e house day and n ig h t; and as much as you can when the fruit are swelling off.”
3204. Birds and insect depredators. The cherry is a favourite food for sparrows and other hard-billed
birds, which are very likely to carry their attacks even into th e cherry-house, as soon as the fruit there
begins to ripen. To prevent their depredations, the trees should be covered with netting ; th e birds may
be scared away by miniature windmills, &c. on the outside. The insect depredators upon the fruit, the
blossoms, and the leaves are many, and require various modes of treatment. The tender leaves of the
*'............................................... " .............’ .................... ...................................................... threo small
best remedy for checking this evil in its commencement consists i
a t intervals of from ten to fifteen days each, with powdered lime, i
T h e first d r e s s in . .................... ................
are i
preexamined.
The
dressing th e trees three or four times,
m anner in the manner rreeccoommmmeennddeedd ffoorr aappip l’es,
he dressing sliould be given as soon as the bud-lcaves have expanded, and before the young larvic
e sufficiently sheltered within th e folds to be screened from the effects of the lime. Where the trees
797
are few and low, these and other small caterpillars may be removed by band-picking. Another larva
commences its devastations later, and usually appears when the trees are in blossom. There are two or
three kinds of early .spring wasps, not much more than half the size of the common autumnal species,
which, instead of producing injury, are of the greatest service to gardens. If attentively watched, these
industrious little creatures will be seen, on a sunny day, flying about and searching among the leaves of
fruit trees for small caterpillars and other insects, of which they devour vast numbers. The cherry-house
as the season advances, may be smoked every seven or ten days. Flies and other insects, which feed upon
the fruit, may be enticed by honey-water and other sweets, put into glass phials, and suspended near or
upon the branches. e. e . e
3205. Nicol, after every winter pruning, washes the trees over with the mixture of soap, sulphur, &c.,
already mentioned (3095.); and in spring and summer waters over the leaves, picks off grubs, and fumi-
gates, like MThail. Torbron fumigates for the black fly, and picks off the grub.
3206. Gathering and keeping the fr u it. If it be found necessary, cherries will keep for some time on the
trees, provided the birds can be kept from them. Keep the house, for this purpose, dry, cool, and well
&\reA. {Gard. Remem.,2A&.) r e .
3207. Exposing the wood. This, according to all th e authors quoted, may be done from the time the
fruit IS gathered, till within a week or ten days of the recommencement of forcing. T h e glass should be
entirely taken off, unless the cherry-house is in part used for some other purpose, to which this practice
would be injurious.
3208. Forcing chen-y trees in pots. M T h a il and Nicol concur in approving the very general practice of
planting cherry trees in pots ; in which, or in tubs of 1 ft. or L5 in. diameter, they may be successfully
forced. “ Thre e or four dozen good plants, well managed in this way. would give a deal of fruit ; which
might be had in succession for a considerable length of time, by dividing the plants into three or four
classes or divisions, and shifting them from one compartment to another. In January, the first twelve
trees may be placed (from the open air, of course) in the greenhouse or conservatory, if there be one, or
in a peach-house now a t work ; placing them in the coolest part of th e house, but in the full light, and
where they may have plenty of air. They must be duly attended to with water a t the ro o t; and be
frequently syringed a t top, generally oncc in two days. The pots being occasionally w-atered with the
drainings of the dunghill would add much to the vigour of the plant-s : there is no method of manuring
more effectual, or so easily accomplished. T h e plants may remain here till the fruit be fairly set, the
stoning over, and all danger of dropping be passed. They may then be placed in a vinery or stove to ripen
off, where they would come in early, and be very high-flavoured, if placed near the light, and so as that
they might have free air daily. In February, a second and th ird dozen should be taken in, and a fourth
in the beginning of March, and each similarly treated.” {Kalend.) “ It is very common with early
forced cherry trees to bear a second crop late in the same season.” {Hort. Trans., vol. iii. p. 36L)
3209. Forcing by a temporary structure. Torbron observes, that, “ where a portion of wall (espi
with a ssoouutthheerrnn aassppeecctt)),, aallrreeaaddyy we”ll f" urnished with May-du•k es, perf-ec.t.l.y.. ..e..s..t.a..b..l..i.s..h..e..d..,. ..a..n..d.. ..i.n.. ......
:an be spared for forcing, a temporary glass case may be put up against it ’
rfacc of the border, without digging, or sink'
front wall be requisite ; the wooden plate on whie
•ring
, A - 1 .......1 - OT________ ________ ay be ' "
the surface sinking for a foundation ; neither will any upright ^ „•
which the lower ends of the rafters are to rest may be supported
by piles, sunk or driven into the soil of the border, one pile under every, or every alternate,
rafter. The space between the plate and the surface of the soil should be filled by boards nailed against
th e piles, to exclude the external air ; for the plate must be elevated above the level of the surface from
ixclude from
18 in. to 30 in., or whatever height maybe sufficient to let th e sashes slip down, in order to admit
fresh air. I believe this to be an uncommon structure, and it may perhaps be objected to ; but I am
confident that it will suit well for cherries, for I have constnicted such places even for forcing peaches
with good success, as well as for maturing and preserving a late crop of grapes.” {Hort. Trans., vol.iv.
p. 117.)
S e c t . V . Culture o f the Fig-house.
3210. A house for forcing the fig is seldom built expressly for that pm*pose ; partly
from tlicre being no great demand for the fruit in most families, and partly because figs
are generally forced iu pots or tubs placed in the peach or cheny house, and managed
as these trees. The fig tree, when forced, is very apt to cast its fruit before it is half
sivcllcd.
3211. The soil for fig borders, or plants in pots, is in all respects the s; s that for th e cherry.
3212. Choice o f sorts, ^c . Thompson recommends the following: —
B ro w n T u rk e y ,
r dwarf standards, are to be preferred.
Pregussata ( Figue blancho
Such plants as are two or th ree years trained, either as wall l . „
Thcir situation in the house is generally against a back wall trellis.
3213. Pi-uning. Figs are to.have a spring and summer pruning ; both of which, Nicol observes, may
be comprised in one, by rubbing or pinching off the infant shoots, thought necessary to be displaced, in
order to give the tree air, and strengthen such as remain. The summer priming, or ra the r thinning,
consists chiefly in keeping them moderately thin of leaves, so as not to overshadow the fruit. Fig trees,
intended to bear fruit abundantly, should never be allowed to produce suckers, or any shoots from the
main stem, within 18 in. of the ground ; fan-training is in general the best method, and the points of the
young shoots may be turned downwards, where it can be done without producing fracture, or inducing
them to throw out shoots by the strain requisite for this purpose.
3214. Stirring the soil, &c. After the gathering of th e fruit, th e borders are to be forked up and
manured, if necessary, as in the cherry-house, and in summer weeded and refreshed.
3215. The time of beginning to force is generally the same as that for th e cherry or peach h o u s e :
December, January, or February.
3216. Temperature. “ From the leafing time,” Abercrombie observes, “ till the ripening of the fruit,
the flg requires a temperature between that scale whiifo is proper for th e peach and that for the cherry.”
MThail says, “ they require a greater degree of hea t than the cherry.” When bringing forward their
fruit, they will bear a good strong heat, if care be taken to keep a free circulation of air moving out of
and into the house. (G. Rem., p. 147.)
3217. Water. Fig trees in a house, and especially those in pots, require abundance of water in the
stages suitable for wat..e..r.i..n..g.. ..f.r..u..i.t.. .t rees.. {Abercrombie.) M T h a i''l says, “... .t.h...e.. .b order in which f^i g t.rees
grow should be kept sufficiently watered till May, when watering over the leaves may be commenced.”
3218. A ir . When the figs are planted under glass, Miller observes, “ th e heat should not be too great,
nor th e glasses or other covering kept too close; but a t all times, when the weather is favourable, a good
share of free air should be admitted. In this respect the fig does not greatly differ from the vine, though
it will thrive with less air than any other fruit tre e .” {Diet, in loco.) In summer, as the fruit a d v ic e s ,
water even in that part of the border which is without the house. Refrain from watering over the leaves
and fruit, when the latter begin to ripen.” (G. Rem., p. 192.)
3219. Insects. “Very much pains, Nicol observes, should be taken to suppress the red spider on the
foliage of figs ; whether by th e engine, syringe, or by frequently brushing, with a painter’s sash tool, the
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