690 A R T O F G A R D EN IN G .
laid so as to fit, avc to be first beaten individually, and then watered and rolled till the
whole is smooth and even. _ , . . ,
2635. Jn tm n s p h n tm g p la n ts in pots, the general practice is to begin with the
smallost-sizcd pot, and gradually to transplant into others larger, as the plant advances,
and as the object may be to produce a large or a small plant. In the case of
balsams and tender annuals, this may require to be done thrco or four times a month,
till the plant has attained its lull size ; in the case of heaths, not more than once a year,
or ev-en less frequently.
2536. T he operation o f p otting is thus perfonned ; —Having tho pots and mould ready
for the reception of the intended plants, observe, previous to planting them, to place some
pieces of tile, potsherds, oyster-sliells, or gravel, over the hole at the bottom of the pot,
both to prevent tho hole from being clogged and stopped with the earth, and the earth
from being washed out with occasional watering ; and also to prevent tho roots ot the
plants from getting out. Having secured the holes, place some earth in the bottom of
oaeh pot, from 2 or 3 to 5 or' 6 inches or more in depth, according to tho size
of tho pot, and tho roots of tho plant. This done, insert the plant in the middle of the
pot, upon the earth, in an upright position ; if without a ball of eai'th, spread its roots
equally every way, and directly add a quantity of fine mould about all tho roots and
fibres, shaking the pot to cause the earth to settle close about them -, at the same time, if
tho roots stand too low, shake it gently up, as you shall see occasion ; having filled the
pot with earth, press it gently all round with the hand to settle it moderately firm in
every part, and to steady the upright posture of the plant, raising the earth, however,
within about half an iiicb, or less, of the top of the pot. It will soon settle lower, and
thereby leave a void space at top, which is necessai'y to receive occasional waterings. As
soon as the plant is thus potted, givo dfrectly a moderate watering to settle the earth
more effectually close about all the roots, and promote thoir shooting into the new earth ;
repeating the waterings as occasion requires.
2537. T ra n s vla n tin g potted p lan ts fr o m one p o t to another is called s h iftin g ; and is
perfonned with the whole ball of earth contained in tho pot entire, so as to preserve the
plant in a growing state.
2538. T he method o f removing p la n ts out o f th eir pots w ith balls is generally easily effected.
Sometimes in small plants it lé performed by tiiming the pot upside down, and striking
tho edge against tho side of a bench, or edge of the boards of a wheelbarrow, or the like,
when the ball comes out entire ; or occasionally, a plant that is very well rooted, and
whose numerous fibres .sun-oitnd the outside of the ball, will readily quit the pot by draiv-
ing it by the stem. Bnt if, by eithei- of the above mcthod.s, the ball will not readily quit
the pot, thrust a narrow thin slip of wood doivn all round the pot, when the ball will come
out by the process of sti'tting the edge of the pot, with the greatest facility. Sometimes,
however, the bellied form of the pot, and the luxnrianee of the roots ivhich cii'culate between
the pot and earth, prevent the possibility of removing the ball entire ; in which
case, either that circumstance must be dispensed with, or the pot he broken.
2539. I n rep lanting in larg er pots, the first step regards the management of the numerous
fibres which sun-ound the outside ball. When these are not numerous, the general
practice is to leave them untouched ; but when they are so abundant as to form a sort of
matted-coat, like the inside of a bird’s nest, all round, then the practice is to trim tho
greater part of them off close to the ball, both on the sides and bottom, together with
some of the outivard old earth of the ball ; then, having the pots of proper sizes, larger
than the former ones, and having secured the holes at the bottom, and put in some frcsli
compost, deposit the plant with its entii-o ball in the pot, taking care that it stands in the
centre, erect, and of the same depth as before. Then fill up .all the interstices round the
ball with ft'csh mould, pressing it dowm, and ramming it round the sides with a broad
stick, adding more mould gradually, and raising it so as to cover the old ball, and finish
with a moderate watering, to settle the new earth close in every part.
2540. T ra n sp la n tin g w ith balls,is to be avoided in the case o f diseased p la n ts, unless it be
evident that the disease has no connection with the roots. Very frequently, however,
the diseases of plants in pots arise fi-om the want of a proper vent for the water, and from
their having- had too much given them ; hence, in transplanting such plants, it is eligible
to shake them entirely fi-ee from earth, in order to examine the roots, and to trim off all
decayed and other bad pai'ts ; then having a fresh pot, and some entirely new compost,
to replant as already directed.
2541. I n p ottin g p la n ts fro m the open ground, or beds of earth on dung, or otherwise ;
if they have heen previously pricked out at certain distances, and have stood long enough
to fix their roots firmly, they may be moved into pots with balls, by the proper use of the
trowel, transplanter, or hollow spade. Seedlings, however, cannot often be raised with
bafts, and are therefore planted in tho smallest-sized pots first, and gi-aduafty removed
into larger ones with their balls entire.
2542. P la n ts in p o ts are seldom shifted direcdy fr o m sm all into large pots, but generallyinto
a size only one gradation larger tban that in ivhich they were. Experience proves that
this is the best mode ; and also that plants, in general, thrive best in small pots The
reason seems to be that, in lai-gc pots, the roots ai'e apt to be chilled and rotted'br the
retention ol more water than is requisite for their well-being.
Subse ct. 3. P rum n g .
2543. T he am putation o f p a r t o f a p la n t w ith the k n ife , or other instrument, is practised
for vanous pmposes, but chiefly on trees, and more especially on those of the fruit-beai'-
ing kinds. Of two adjoining and equal-sized branches of the same tree, if the one be cut
oil, that remammg ivill profit by the sap wliich would have nom-ishcd the other, ancl both
the leaves and the fruits which it may produce will exceed their natural size. If part of
a branch be cut off which would have carried a nnmbcr of fmits, those wliich remain will
set or fix better, and become larger. On the observation of these facts is founded tho
whole theoiy of pranmg.
2544. T he objects o f p ru n in g may be reduced to the following promoting growth
and bulk ; lessening bulk ; modifying form ; promoting the formation of blossom-buds •
enlai-ging iruit ; adjusting the stem and branches to the roots ; renewal of decayed plants
or trees ; and removal or cure of diseases.
2545. P ru n in g f o r p rom oting the grow th a nd bulk o f a tree is the simplest object of
prumng, and is chiefly employed by nm-serymen with yonng trees of every description
The art is to cut off aft the weak lateral slioots, that the portion of sap destined for their
nourisliment may he thi'owii into the strong ones. In some cases, besides cuttmg off the
weak shoots, the strong ones are shortened, in order to produce three or four shoots
instead of one. In general, mere bulk being the object, upright shoots are encom-agcd
rather than lateral ones ; excepting in the case of trained trees, where shoots are encouraged
at all angles, from the horizontal to tho peipcndicular, but more especially at
the medium of 45°. In old trees, this object is greatly promoted by the removal with
the proper instruments, of the dead or afready scaling off outer bark.
2546. P ru n in g f o r lessening the bulk o f the tree is also chiefly confined to nursery-
practice, as necessai-y to keep unsold trees of a portable size. It consists in little more
than what is technically called heading down, that is, cutting off the leading shoots within
an inch or two of tho main stem ; leaving, in some cases, some of the lowcr lateral shoots
Caro is taken to cut to a leaf-bud (2317.) ; and to choose such bud from among th!
side, upper, or under buds of the shoot ; accordmg as the succeeding yeai-’s shoots may
be wanted, in radiated lines from the stem, or in oblique lines in some places, to fill up
vacancies. It is evident that tliis uimatural operation, persisted in for a few years must
render the tree knotty and unsightly ; and in stone-frnits, at least, it is apt to generate
canker and gum. “
2547. P ru n in g f o r m od ifying the fo rm o f the tree embraces the management of tho plant
fi'oin the^ time of its propagation. Almost every tree has a different natural form, and
111 botanic and landscape gardening it is seldom desirable to attempt altering these by
pruning, or by any other operation. But in rem-ing trees planted for timber, it is desirable
to throw the timber produced, as much as possible, into long compact masses • and
hence pruning is employed to remove the side branches, and encourage the groivth of
the bole or stem. Whore this operation is begun when the trees are yonng, it is easily
pertonned every two or tlu-ee years, and the progress of the trees under it is most satisfactory
; when, however, it is delayed^ till they have attained a timber size, it is, in all
cases, much less conducive to the desired end, and sometimes may prove injurious It
IS safer in such cases to shorten or lessen the size of lateral branches, rather than to cut
them off close by the stem ; as the large wounds produced by the latter practice either
do not cicatrise at all, or not till the central part is rotten, and has contaminated the
timber of the trank. In all cases, a moderate number of small branches, to be taken off
as they grow large, are to be left on the trunk, to facilitate the circulation of the sap and
juices. Wliere timbcr-trees are planted for shelter and sliade, unless intei-mixed with
shrubs or copse, it is evident that pruning must be directed to clothing them from tlie
summit to the ground with side branches. In avenues and hedge-row trees, it is o-ene-
rally desirable that the lowest branches should be a considerable distance from the o-round •
m trees intended to conceal objects, as many branches should be left as possible T and in
others, which conceal distant objects desired to be seen, or injure or conceal neai-objects
the form must be modified accordingly. In all tlicse cases, the supci-fluous parts are to be
cut off with a clean-section, near a bud or shoot if a branch is shortened, or close to the
trunk if It is entu-ely removed ; the object being to facilitate cicatrisation.
t r i i f ■ Ope of th e principal objects of pruning is to increase the bearing of fruit-
® “ » '- f s aad halfiG
fo r u Y ia n d a r d s (a rb re s à p le in -v e n t, F r.), the first thing to be determined on after
Bh J t T from the nursery and planted, is, whether the stein is to be tall oi
short (basse.ttge)-, and the next, if the head is to be trained in any particular form, as a cone Ì lo l " /
T Y 2 ’ ^