( .
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!■
always cold, consists in the well-known fact that heat cannot be transmitted downwards
through water.” (Ibid.) “ Both extremities of plants feed on air, tho roots more than
tho leaves.” (Ibid.)
2842. The best soil fo r peaches and nectarines is the tu rf from loamy soil of an old
sliccp-walk, or fine pasture field, piu'cd off about 3 iu. thick, and roughly chopped ; the
fresher it is used the better. The reason chopped turf forms the best of all soils for fruit
trees, Dr. Lindley observes, is, that “ roots penetrate the soil in all directions, forming
myriads of fine tubes, which convoy air and inoistiu'c through the whole mass of earth”
(sec Theory o f Hort.)', aud whore loamy turf cannot be procured, Dr. Lindley advises that
straws or long litter cut to 3-inch lengths, should be mixed with light calcareous earth to
serve as a substitute ; the object in view being to secure the admission of the atmospheric
air to the roots, as “ both extremities of plants feed on air, the roots more than the
leaves.” (Gard. Chron. for 1849, p. 35.)
2843. The best soils fo r fm i t tt'ces generaUy arc those which are open and well drained,
so as to admit air freely to the roots. Loamy soils are generally preferred for peaches,
nectarines, apples, and p e a rs ; but light gi-avelly or sandy soils will suit apricots
and figs.
2844. Manure should never he dug into fm it- tree borders if it can be avoided, as it induces
rank luxuriant growth in leaves aud baiTcn shoots, and brings on gum, canker,
and numerous other diseases. Where the soil is so poor that it requires enriching, vegetable
mould, or the scourings of ditches mLxcd with road-scrapings should be preferred ;
ancl if animal dung be thought absolutely necessary, cow-dung and pigs’ clung should
be prcfen-ed to horse-dung. It is much better to lay manure on the surface of fruit-tree
borders after the trees arc planted, than to dig it in when the border is being p repared;
and when a border containing olcl trees reqnu-es to be renovated, if manure is used it
must always be laid on the smface, as if it is dug in it disturbs and injures the roots of
the trees, and forces them to descend beyond the influence of the air. It is much the
best way to take up the plants when a border requires renovating, and, after remoring
the soil, to fill up the space with virgin soil from a loamy pasture.
2845. Root-pruning is frequently found very efficacious in the culture o f wall fruit*trces.
This mode of treatment has been practised by some of the best fruit growers with very
great success. In 1830, Mr. Errington, in a paper in the Gardener's Magazine, on the
management of fruit-trees, says, that he had a wall of peach trees which procluccd wood
instead of fruit. “ What could I do ? ” he asks. “ I was as spai'ing of the knife as possible,
leaving some of the shoots from 4 ft. to 5 ft. long, knowing they had a superabundance
of sap which must have vent in one shape or other ; but this was of littlo
avail. I therefore tlircw open a trench before them, and cut with a knife what I considered
to be a just proportion of the deepest roots from them. The experiment has
answered my best expectations.” He adds, “ I thought it prudent in cutting the roots
to divide them at a tuft of fibres, as I thought it probable they would heal most quickly
at such parts.” (Sec Gard. Mag. vol. vi. p. 693.) My. Errington afterwards states in the
same work, that the same plan had succeeded equfdly well with pears and plums._ (Ibid.)
The trees at Oxenforcl Castle near Dalkeith are treated in a similar manner, as is stated
by Mr. Gardiner in the Transactions o f the Caledonian Horticultural Society. “ Duripg
the winter and spring of 1840-41, the wall borders here were all renovated and bottomed
with a concrete of lime and gi-avel 3 in. thick, and thoroughly drained. The roots of
trees from twenty to thirty years of age were cut back to the distance of from 4 ft. to 6 fi .
from the stems. The trees were lifted and replanted, keeping the roots near the surface, with
a good dressing of well decomposed stable fitter over the surface, and giving a liberal
supply of water, to settle the soil firmly about the roots. These trees succeeded beyond
my expectation, some yielding fine crops of fruit the same y e a r; and in 1842 the trees,
which included apples, pears, poaches, apricots, plums, and cherries, were in a very
healthy state. The roots of these trees have been sevcrai times cut to within 5 ft. of the
stem, cutting foreright or front roots in one year, and the side roots the next year ; the
operation being performed in November.” (See Gard. Chron. for 1848, p. 623.)
2846. must, however, be practised cautiously, and it must be remembered,
that it is only efficacious in increasing the number of short branching roots, and consequently
the number of spongioles; it must also be observed that in those cases where
the practice has been found most advantageous, the trees were taken up and replanted
ivith thcir roots carefully spread out just below the surface of the so il; and a top dressing
of manure was applied to induce the roots to rise upwards.
2847. Cropping fruit-tree borders. This is a subject respecting which a ^ ’cat difference
of opinion exists among gardeners; some asserting that a good crop of iruit can ntyer
be expected if culinary crops are grown on the borders, and others believing that light
crops do the trees no harm. There appears little doubt that the principal injury done by
cropping fruit-tree borders is occasioned by stirring the soil, and thus disturbing the
roots of the trees, aud forcing them downivarcls, out of the reach of the atmospheric air;
745
and that where the borders are chamborcd, no great harm is done by light crops whieh
can be gathered by hand, provided the soil be only forked over and raked, and not dug
before the crops arc soivn.
2848. Concreting fruit-tree borders. A great sensation was caused among gardenci's
in the yeai’ 1848, by the introduction of a plan of coiiereting fruit-tree borders and
whicli was practised by Mr. Fleming at Trentham Park, and by Mr. Beaton at
Shnibland Pai’k, both well known and eminent scientific and practical gardeners, as
this plan seemed in opposition to the doctrine of it being necessary always to keep the
roots of frnit trees within reach of the atmospheric air. The fact, however, is that a
chamber is formed with concrete above and below, which is supplied with air-tubes so
that air is freely admitted to the roots. Mr. Fleming appears to have used concrete o’nly
for his vine borders; but Mr. Beaton has used it also for peaches and other wall fruit trees
Mr. Fleming’s plan is as follows he first drains tho subsoil, and then forms tlie vine-
border, the bottom inclimiig “ from the house towards a deep main drain in front of the
space which the border wül ultimately occupy. On this slope,” continues Mr. Fleming,
‘ 1 lay open-jomted pipe drains, 5 ft. apart, which, after crossing the outside border arc
continued through the front wall and beneath the inside soil also. By brino-inl up
chimneys at the extreme points of each drain, a current of air is produced, ivhich pisses
throngh the borders, and communicates with tho atmosplicre of the house. Over each
air-di-ain, some broken rubble, stone, or other coarse material is laid in the form of a
ridge ; and between and over these ridges is laid the compost which forms the border.
In forming the ridges, care is taken to place the material as loosely as possible, and to
lay the longest pieces nearest to the pipes, as the object is to allow a portion of the air
to escape from the open-jointed drains, and to diffuse itself amongst the soil. I t wül be
seen by this arrangement, a supply of air is secured to the roots, notwithstanding the
concreted roof When the new border has subsided, a time is chosen for laying on the
concrete, when the soil is in a moderately dry state. Our mixture consists of one part
(by measure) of lime, and eight parts of fine gravel, with as much ivater as will bring
the whole to the consistence of mortar ; when thoroughly incorporated, it is ivhceled on
to the border, and spread evenly over it, in. in thickness : the surface should be made
smooth with the back of a clean spade, to allow the rain to pass easily off. Boards or
planks should be used to prevent the compression of the soil either by the ban-ows
or _ the workmen. The concrete soon hardens, and may be walked upon without
doing It any injury ; but as it is liable to be loosened by frost, a layer of litter or fern
should be spread over it as a protection in winter. The border derives its supply of
moistm-e from below, by capillary attraction, and this action takes place to the greatest
extent m the hottest weather, while its evaporation is prevented by the concrete Im mediately
beneath this, we find the roots most bcautifuUy netted, showing how much
they enjoy heat when accompanied by moistui’c.” (Fleming, in Gard. Chron. for 1849,
p. 68.) As Mr. Beaton disliked the white appearance of the concrete, he mixed cliar-
coal dust with the concrete applied to his peach borders ; or tarpawling may be used
b ut the latter is very expensive. ’
2849. The numher and breadth o f walks, Marsbiül observes, “ mnst, in a great measure
be dctcmiined by tlie quantity of allotted ground, exceeding in these particulars wliere
tiicre IS room. But few and wide walks are preferable to many contracted ones Ii’ the
garden is small, one good walk all roiuid is sufficient ; and if long and nai-row the cro«îs
walks should not be many : 6 ft. or 8 ft. walks are not too wide for a moderate-sized
gardem” The middle walk, according to Forsyth, “ should be about 7 ft., which is ividc
enough to admit a cai-t ; and the others about 3 ft. or 4 ft. broad, witli a border on each
side, 5 ft. or 6 ft. wide, at least, between tbe walk and the fruit trees.” “ I f the garden
be very extensive,” Neill obsenras, “ the centre is traversed by a broad walk. I f it be
o fth e largest dimensions, and possess a cross wall or cross walls, the aiTangenicnt o fth e
walks requu'cs to be altered accordingly ; a main walk proceeding directly to the door
in the centre of the cross walls.” ’
2850. A walk should always proceed from the main entrance to the main object o f the
garden. Tho entrance, as ah’cady observed (2754.), should either be in the centre of
the south-east or west walls. Wlicre tliere are hothouses, it should, if possible bo in
the south wall, and from it a broad walk with suitable borders sliould proceed direct to
the centre of the garden, and across it to the centre of the range of hothouses. Main
walks 111 square or pardlclogram gardens, entering from whatever point, should in
general, proceed to the centre ; but in long octagons or irregiihu- gardens, diagonal wallcs,
though they occasion a little more trouble in culture, have a noble effect. I t is almost
needless to observe, that no main walk ought ever to terminate abruptly, or look to a
mere blank, a defect, or an unsightly object. These, and vai’ious other points of the
greatest consequence as to futiirc effect, must be left to the taste o fth e designer.
2851. Gravel is almost universally considered the best matei-ial for icalks; but there arc
various substitutes. “ Sand,” MarshaU observes, “ may be adopted for walks, and there
. I