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sake of the colour and flavour of the phmts. As the buds begin to appear, as large portions of air must
be daily admitted as th e weather will permit. , . . .
3314. Water. When the asparagus-hed has, after planting, stood two or three days, and when th e heat
has begun to warm the root, give the plants a sufficient watering. Pour it out of a pot with a rose on it,
to imitate a shower of rain ; let the bed have enough to moisten the mould well, and to wash it in among
the roots. Repeat such waterings now and then. Nicol says, the roots must have moderate supplies of
w a te r: once in three or four days, if the heat be not violent; and if otherwise, oftener.
3315. Gathering. By the time the buds have come up 3 in. above the surface, they are fit to gather
for use, as they will then be Gin. or 7 in. in length. In gathering them, draw aside a little of the
mould, slip down the finger and thumb, and twist them off from the crown. This is a better method
than to cut them; at least it is less dangerous to the rising buds, which come up in thick succession,
and might be wounded by the knife, if cutting were practised.
3316. Forced roots, '/‘he roots, after they have furnished a crop, are considered useless for future
culture, because no leaves having been allowed to develop themselves, of course no buds could be formed
for the succeeding year.
3317. Successional supplies. If the pit in which asparagus is forced be 25 ft. to 30 ft. long, it will be
enough, for the supply of any ordinary family, to fill one half at a time. If the second h a lf be planted
when the grass in the first half is fit for use, and so on, a constant succession may be kept up in the
same pit for any length of time required. In order, however, to forward or protract the growth of the
one part or of the other, th e pit may be divided in a temporary way, by fitting a board neatly under
th e middle rafter. By this means, one half may be kept cooler or hotter than the other, by matting or
not matting, or by the admission of more or less air, &c. “ In filling the first end of the pit a second
time, if bark be used, it will not be necessary to add fresh materials ; as trenching over the bed will be
found to answer th e purpose, even a th ird time. And in using dung, the stirring up of the old, and
adding as much new as will raise the bed to a proper height, finishing with the smallest and best fermented
part, will generally be sufficient for a second filling. For a third filling, one half new dung may
be necessary, which, however, should be moderately fermented, and be kept well down.”
3318. Forcing asparagus in hotbeds. Asparagus may be brought to perfection in hotbeds a t any time
from November till it comes in the natural ground. When it is intended to have a constant supply from
hotbeds, M'Phail recommends one to be made every fortnight, and Abercrombie once a month, from
November till April. This must, of course, he arranged according to the sizeof the hotbeds and number
of the family.
3319. Forming the hotbed. M'Phail says, “ get a quantity of good dung well prepared, by putting it
together in a heap to ferment, th a t the rancidity of it m ay b e evaporated, by turning and mixing it
several times when there is a strong heat in i t ; make it up into a bed about 3 ft. high and 4 in. or 5 in.
larger all round than th e size of the frames which are to be set upon it. When it is made, set the
boxes and glasses on, and let it heat and stand till it is sweet, which may be known by th e smell of it;
then tread it level, and loosen up the surface again, th a t th e heat may have free liberty to arise .” In
this stage, Nicol covers the whole with '' rolls or squares of turf, cut so as again to join exactly ; which
lay green side down, and beat them well with th e back of the spade, th a t the whole may be close and
compact, in order as m uch as possible to exclude steam.” To this practice M'Phail objects,as preventing
the water from sinking freely into th e b e d ; and if th ere be a sufficient heat m it for wmter forcing,
unless it receive water, it must become dry and husky. The method, he says, is an old one practised
fifty years ago, and now exploded by every good gardener. Instead of turf, therefore, M'Phail and Abercrombie,
after setting on the frame, direct, with the bed from 6 in. to 8 in. thick, to use any sort of light
ea rth. Nicol says. “ I have often used old bark reduced to a fine mould, without any mixture of earth,
and' have T. _ _ sometimes mixed it i _with 1 _*A rt__________fine sandy 1 „ earth, with little difference rt ¿k •;in « the oiirtrtACC success.; only TI hVianTvre«
observed, that when the roots were placed in bark entiirreellyy,, bbuuddss would come a few days earlier. ]
3320. Planting. Proceed as s directed for planting on o
a bark-bed. Abercrombie says, “ provide from
five to nine hundred (he elsewhere says six hundred) roots for ahotbed under a three-hght garden-frame.
________ ^ . 1 r . „ ^
Having prepared the roots, mark out on the surface of the mould the width of foe frame then, beginning
at one end, raise a small ridge of earth crosswise, and proceed to p lanting; placing the first course
of roots nearly upright, close against the said ridge, and with th e crowns m contact, either upon the
surface of the level earth, or with only the lower ends of the roots a little inserted: place more against
these in the same manner, as close together as possible, and extending to the width of the frame : add
successive ranges, as close as they can be set, with th e crowns of an equal height.” Where the bed is
completely planted, the crowns are to be earthed over regularly. Some, as Abercrombie, cover with
2 in. of light earth, adding, when foe buds appear, 3 in. or 4 in. of additional ea rthing; others, as Nicol
and M'Phail, cover a t once with 4 in. or 5 in., adding no more afterwards. T h e planting completed,
the next thing is to put on the lights, which are to be kept close shut down till the heat begin to rise in the
frame ; which will generally happen the second or third day, when air is to be admitted, in order to pass
off the steam, and dry the suriace of foe mould. Air must be given every good day till the buds begin
to appear above ground ; and then more freely admitted, to give colour and flavour.
3321. Produce in hotbeds. Nicol says, “ an ordinary-sized three-light frame, completely filled with
roots, and properly managed, will only yield a dish every day for about three weeks.”
3322. Successional supplies fro?n hotbeds. On th e above estimate, if a constant succession of asparagus be
required, it will be necessary to make up a bed every eighteen or twenty days till the middle or end of
March. Each successive bedI mmaayybe made a little lig h te r; and less trouble will be t
required as the
season advances. {Kal., p. 347.)
3323. Forcing in a vinery. Melross finds that
asparagus may be forced r
inery, by planting the
roots in the border, behind the flue, where
vine roots are.” _ {Cakd................... Hort. Mem.,-2., vol. iii. p. 164.)
3324.. A Forcing OT, OT....J, tke roots ......... as v,.they OT^ OT_______ stand in oj
OT.- „ .......... .. Stto th c surfacc of uoy bed or beds in full bearing
... the general plantation ; then, having raked it fine as in the usual spring dressing, cover 3in. with the
siftings of old tan, arid on that lay a layer of fermenting dung, as in forcing rhubarb or sea-kale. This
mode has been but seldom practised ; but we consider it likely to succeed to a certain extent. A very
general mode of forcing asparagus in first-rate gardens, is to have th e beds, in th e open air, cased with
pigeon-hole brickwork, to the depth of 3 ft., with trenches between them of 2 ft. in width. In these
trenches, dung or fermenting vegetable matter of any kind is introduced, and over the beds are placed
frames covered with boards. In this m anner the asparagus-beds may be forced every year ; whereas, by
taking up the plants, and placing them on dung or tan, they can only be forced once.
3325. Sca-kak and rhubarb may be, and sometimes are, forced in th e same manner as asparagus ; but the
most general mode is to excite them where they stand in the open garden, by th e application of warm
dung, with or without earth in pots, or other covers.
S e c t . X. Forcing Kidneybeans.
3326. The kidneybean may be successfully forced in pits, hothouses, or forcing-houses,
and hotbeds. The more general mode is to force in the pinc-stovcs; the same heat
which suits the pine-apple suiting the kidneybean, which is a native of India. Nicol
prefers a flucd pit, such as that used for nursing pines ; and Abercrombie says, “ where
809
there arc no hothouses, or where kidneybeans are to be raised in quantities for the market,
the most economical and successful mode will be found a flued pit, prepared as directed
for asparagus, but with a stronger bottom heaL” Pits heated by steam or hot water arc,
of course, equally efiicacious.
3327. Soil. All agree in recommending ligh
getable earth.
3328. So7'ts. Abercrombie recommends th(
riy speckled, early negro, and dun-coloured dwarfs.
Nicol says the speckled dwarf is the best sort.
_ 3329. Sotoing. Sow in flat boxes
T A aL - boxes or pans of fine hght earth thickly, and cover to the depth of an inch.
L e t them be placed in a stove or hotbed, and haveinoderate supplies of water, and they will be fit to plant
when about 3 in. m height. P la n t them in rows across the bed of the pit 15 in. apart, and 3 in. distant
in the line.
313 30 . ACUu ltuArle_._ __W1_-aAt.e r .a.f.te r *p la.n ting,a.n d after.w. a. r ds,’ s required; give abundance of air every fine day, and earth up the plants as they advance in growth in orde..Ar 4to„ give AthUeaomta saAtorte ng_OtThU . -
^3331. Time o f heginningtoforce. M'Phail s a y / “ if you wish to endeavour to have kidneybeans green
all the year, you should plant th e seeds, and begin to force in August.” Abercrombie observes, “ some
lorcers, quite m opposition to the season, raise kidneybeans in August, and thence till the 21st of December,
which day may be regarded as the boundary between late and early forcing.”
3332. Temperature. T h e heat by fire in the night need not exceed 50°, according to N ico l; but Abercrombie
recommends 60° for a minimum, and 75° for a maximum.
3333. Successional supplies are to be obtained by sowing every month or six weeks, for which purpose
the pits may he divided by temporary partitions, as recommended under Forcing Asparagus.
3334. Fo7-cing in hothouses. “ The most early fruit in perfection,” says Abercrombie, “ is obtained bv
culture in a stove, sowing from midwinter till foe end of March.” Sow in pots, or oblong boxes, containing
a mixture of light fresh earth and vegetable mould, depositing the seeds either in a triangular or
quincunx order, and full an inch deep. If the plants are to fruit where sown, th e pot or boxes should be
10 in. deep ; but, if they are to be transplanted, which admits a greater number in the same space
the seed-pots or boxes may be shallow. Do not fill them with mould a t first, to allow of gradually earthing
up. When the beans have germinated, sprinkle the earth with water ; after the plants have risen
give moderate waterings every other day—the last crops may want water every day. Sprinkle also the
leaves with water warmed by standing in the house. Those raised in shallow pans should be trans-
planted for fruiting when 2 in. or 3 in. high. It is sometimes proper to stop luxuriant runners. These
incidental crops may stand in rows, on the flues, or on shelves; but take care they do not shade the
pines and other principal plants. For succession, sow every iortnight or three weeks.”
3335. Foj-cing in a peach or cherry house. Nicol observes, “ kidneybeans may be successfully planted
out m the borders of an early cherry-house, or peach-house, so as that they may not be overmuch shaded
b^ the trees ; but they seldom do m uch good in a vinery, where they are shaded by th e whole foliage of
3336. Foi-cing in a common hotbed. Under the deficiency of a house, you may have recourse to a hotbed
and frame ; but the culture will be attended with more trouble, th e course will be longer, and foe
fruit is rarely so fine and p lentiful; nor without fire-heat can the difficulties of late or very early forcing
be so well contended with. °
3337. Crop raised under glass to f r u it in the open garden. “ At th e end of March, you may sow a small
portion under glass, for transplanting into the open garden in the first or second week of May. It is not
so well to sow in patches on the surface of the ground, as in small pots, because the plants can be turned
out from the latter with less check to their growth when transplanted. Sow three beans in each pot.
When the seedlings are 2 in. or 3 in. high, harden them by degrees to the full air ; and plant them on a
good open border as soon in May as the season will suit. They will yield fruit about a fortnight sooner
than the earliest raised under exposure to th e weather.”
3338. Crop raised on slight heat. “ A crop to fruit early in the open garden may be accelerated with
more ceitainty by plunging th e pots containing the seed-beans into a gentle hotbed ; or some sown in
shallow pans or boxes mav be set on the shelves of a stove. Ju st at the opening of April will be early
enough to begin, as th e plants will otherwise get too forward for the weather, to proceed well without a
continuance of artificial heat. Having nursed them to the proper stage, plant out under a south fence,
either 3 in. apart, if in a single line, and 18 in. by 3 in., if in two lines ; or it may be better to set the
plants in patches of nine or seven, to receive th e temporary shelter of a hand-glass, lest the transition
from a hotbed all at once, to foe fluctuating air of spring be too violent.” {Aberm-ombie.)
3339. Insects. The aphis and chermes often attack French beans in the hothouse ; in which case, the
plants should be fumigated with tobacco.
S e c t . XI. Forcing Potatoes.
3340. The potato is forced in a great variety o f ways; but “ for a fair crop of tubers,
which shall bo somewhat dry and flowery, and of the size of hens’ eggs, plant sets of the
ash-leaved variety in single pots, filled one third part with light eaith, in Januaiy. Place
them in a hothouse or hotbed, earth them up as they appear, and about the middle or
end of Febniary transplant them with thcir balls entii-o into a pit prepared as for
asparagus. Distance fi-om plant to plant one foot each way. Give water occasionally,
and admit as much air as possible at all times. Potatoes so managed will produce a crop
the end of March or beginning of April.” (Abercrombie.')
3341. Hogg, a market-gardener, describes “ a method of growing early forced potatoes,” by using an
old cucumber or melon bed, in which foe dung has lost all its heat. T h e sets of a very early sort, a
variety of Foxe’s yellow seedling, known by the name of this grower, are cu t a fortnight before they are
planted, to prevent their damping, or being injured by worms. The bed is prepared by removing all the
earth from the top of the dung, and covering it about 1 in. deep with iresh mould, on which the sets
are planted in rows 6 in. apart, and the same distance from each other in the row s ; they are then
covered 4 in. deep with mould, and th e frames and glasses are placed upon the bed, whicn must be
carefully protected from frost. The covering best adapted for this purpose, is foe second crop of short
hay, called rowen in the neighbourhood of London. At th e end of the fifth day the outsides of the old
dung should be cut away, from near the edge of the frame to the bottom of the bed, in a slanting direction
inward,s, of about 15 in. from the perpendicular ; strong linings of hot dung must be applied to the — . . J ot j . A A.B.rtAi... . . . . . . athepl
spade so made, and renewed, if necessary, a t the end of three weeks. Air m ust be given to ....
sliding down the lights a t noon every day that the weather will permit, and water in the moriiin)
plants, by
leaving
. dayt: ‘ ■ „
ahout 1 in. of th e light open for the admission of the a ir after watering. The potatoes will be fit lor
a about seven weeks from the first planting of the sets, and the average crop to each light, if well
managed, is usuaUy about five pounds.” {Hort. Trans., vol. ii. p. 144.)
3342. Foi-ci7ig potatoes in pots or boxes. This is sometimes attempted in stoves. One set is placed near
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