'' 'I
3172. VmntTig. This, according to Abercrombie, may be performed at the fall of th e le a f; but should
be completed before the blossom-buds are considerably advanced. M'Phail says, th e best season is the
spring, when tho blossom-buds can be distinguished. Nicol, in the case of a newly planted house, heads
down the maiden plants, or cuts in th e trained trees, about the end of March or beginning of April.
“ With respect to the dwarfs, th e shoots on the lower branches should be cut back to two or three buds,
th a t the trellis maybe furnished from the bottom with youngwood. The shoots on the upper or farther
extended branches m aybe shortened back to half or one third of thcir lengths, according to their strength,
provided they have been well ripened, and are free from canker; but if the tre e be anywise diseased, let
them be cut so far back as to get rid of the cankered or mildewed part, I mention this as a matter of
precaution, but would ra the r advise that no diseased tree be planted, unless of a particular kind, that
cannot be easily obtained. The riders need not be headed so much in as the dwarfs ; the objects being
ra th e r to throw them into a bearing state, than to cause them to push very strong shoots, which would
not be fruitful. If they make moderately strong shoots, and if these be well ripened in autumn, a good
crop may be expected on them n ex t year. L e t the young shoots be laid in, as they advance, at the distance
of about 9 in. from each other, th a t is, of the dwarfs. Those of the riders may be laid in considerably
closer, it not being intended they shall grow so vigorously as those of the dwarfs.” “ Unless
peach trees be very strong,” Mr. Thompson observes, “ the shoots should be more or less shortened,
according to the vigour of the tree . If this be not attended to, it will be impossible to prevent the
bearing wood from becoming naked a t the base. Who then could answer for the setting and stoning of
blossoms situated at or near the extremity of a th ree years old branch, having, perhaps, only leaves on
the p art produced during the last season ? ”
3173. The. summer pruning consists in pinching off all foreright shoots as they appear, and all such as
are iii placed, weakly, watery, deformed, or very luxuriant, leaving a leader to everj' shoot of last year,
and retaining a plentiful supply of good lateral shoots in all p arts of the tree . Ii any blank is to be
filled up, some conveniently placed strong shoot is shortened in June to a few eyes, in order that it may
throw out laterals.
3174. The f r u it is thinned before and after the stoning season. Abercrombie savs, “ Th ere should be a
preparatory thinning before the time of stoning, and a final thinning afterwards, because most plants,
especially such as have overborne themselves, drop many fruit at th a t crisis. Finish the thinning with
great regularity, leaving those retained at proper distances, three, four, or five, on strong shoots, two or
three on middling, and one or two on the weaker shoots ; and never leaving more than one peach a t the
same eye. The fruit on weakly trees thin more in proportion.”
3175. Siirrvig the soil. T h e borders are to be pointed and forked up after pruning, and a little wcll-
rottod dung or compost added where deemed necessary. T h e p art of the borders on the outside may,
in addition, be covered with d u n g ; and, after forcing is commenced, those in the inside may be occasionally
watered with the drainings of the dunghill. {Kal., pp. 324 . 438.)
3176. Time of beginning to force. “ From the rise o fth e sap,” accordmg to Abercrombie, “ it occupies,
in some sorts, about four months to make mature f r u it ; in the later varieties, five months ; and, when
much of winter is included in the course of forcing, th e time is proportionally lengthened. To ripen
moderately early kinds by the end of May, begin to force on the 21st of December. Little is gained by
commencing sooner. But you may put on the glasses a week before, and make gentle fires, adra
constant stream of fresh air, to get the house ready.”
3177. Tcmperalure. Abercrombie directs to “ begin at 42° min. 45° max. from su n -lic a t; and rise m
a fortnight to 45° min. 50 max. from sun-licat, giving plenty of air. In the progress of th e second fort-
night, augment the temperature from three to eight degrees, so as to have it at th e close up to 53° rain.
56° max. from sun-heat, admitting air in some degree daily. When the trees are m blossom, let the
hea t be 55° min. 60° max. Continue to aim at this till th e fruit is set and swelling. When the fruit is
set, raise the miniiium to 60°, th e artificial maximum to 65°, in order to give fresh a i r : when the sun
shines, do not let the maximum, from collected heat, pass 70°, ra th e r employing the opportunity to
admit a free circulation of a ir.”
3178. A ir. A constant stream of fresh air is to be admitted before beginning to force, and plenty of
air during sunshine throughout th e wholc progress of forcing. MTh ail says, wticn th e fruit is set and
swelling, “ give tiie liouse air every day, whether th e sun shine or n o t.” Give plenty of air, and keep
th e house dry, when th e fruit begins to ripen. When th e intention is to begin to force on the 1st of
February, Nicol advises th e house to be shut up from th e middle of January, admitting plenty of free air
through the day. During the first month of forcing, he admits air freely “ every day, even in frosty
weather, by th e sashes, till the flowers begin to ex p a n d ; after which time by th e vcntilat<>rs, except in
fresh weather, till th e season become mild. Air should be admitted all this month, to such an extent as
to keep down the temperature, in sunshine, to within five degrees of the fire-heat medium ; and tiiis in
order to strengthen the buds as they break, and th a t the young shoots may spring in a vigorous r
Admit large portions of air every day when the fruit is swelling off, except in damp weather, froi
or eight in the morning to five or six in the evening ; opening th e sashes to their fullest extent f
till two or three o’clock, giving and reducing gradually, &c.
3179. Watering and steaming. “ While the fruit is in blossom,” Abercrombie observes,
th e flues must be substituted for watering over th e herb ; a t the same time, you may water the r>
and then gently, avoiding such a copious supply as might risk th e dropping of the fruit to be s
th e water be warmed to th e air o fth e house.”
3180. Nicol says, “ newly planted peach trees should be freely supplied w ith water a t the root t
out the season, m order to promote thoir growth ; and th e engine must be appHed with force to t
branches, for th e suppression of th e red spider, and refreshing th e foliage, generally once m two or three
days.” In a fruit-bearing house, after th e fruit is set, “ water should be given pretty freely to tb e plants
- ‘ ’— A,..........._a:a.. ..g begins to swell,at root, once in two or three d ay s; increasing the quantity a and as the shoots
advance in growth. Aiso, continue the operations of the cnginu luyuuuiy ; auu uu uui. uu ocai uib, ui uu
afraid to h urt the foliage, if the red spider appear on it. Hit hardest a t or near to th e top of the house ;
as it is there he preys most, being fostered by th e extreme heat, in which he delights. In looking out
for this enemy, therefore, keep your eye particularly on this part. Withhold water from the border, and
cease to exercise the engine on the foliage when the fruit is swelling off.” {Kal., 358. 401.)
3181. F/ffrenga», whilst the trees are in bloom, neither sprinkles nor steams the house, for he “ considers
th a t sufficient moisture arises from th e earth in the house, a t this stage of forcing.” {Hort.
Trans., vol. v. p. GO.) When the fruit is set, he gives the trees a gentle syringing on a fine morning with
clean water, and waters the borders within the house occasionally after the stoning, until th e fruit is
arrived a t full size, and begins to change colour; then all watering snould be left off both with the syringe
and on th e borders.
3182. Insects and diseases. The red spider is th e grand enemy to peach tre e s; but 3y the;are
aiso
attacked by mildew, the aphis, thrips, chermcs, and sometimes even by the coccus. “ Theh ,,• ht,”,
Aber-
crombie says, “ is caused by small insects, very pernicious both to the trees and fruit in thoir ir growth f
;
this is apparent by the leaves curling up, and often hy the ends of the shoots becoming buncl
inched and
clammy, which retards tlieir shooting. In this case, it is advisable to pick off the infected leaves, and
cut away the distempered part of the shoots. F arth er to check the mischief, if the we,atlier be hot and
dry, give the trees a smart watering all over th e branches. A garden-engine will jierform the watering
much more effectually than a common watering-pot, as it discharges the water in a full stream against
the trees. Apply it two or three times a week ; the best time of the day is the afternoon, when the power
of the sun is declining. These waterings will clear the loaves, branches, and fruit, from any contracted
foulness ; refresh and revive th e whole considerably; and conduce greatly t xtcrminatc the vermin.’
On this passage Mr. Thompson observes, “ by the blight, in this place, Abercrombie, do doubt, means
the green fly : it s* o1 , l»br>e lior>rei, lei«vae r. tihrlVe le1a ves be cu r!l_e_dA u„ p.,1 _o_r_ t_h_e_ _ends of the shoots have become clammy, the remedy should be ap p lied ; viz. a slight syringing to dampa It-h_ eI leaves , a_ „n di then a good. spri. n.k l..i n•'g >
with tobacco-dust.” Mr. Swainson advises for th e destruction of the aphis, “ the application of warm
water, sufficiently hot to destroy the aphis, without injuring the tree : more will be thus destroyed than
either by repeated applications of the syringe, or by the use of tobacco water. Some recommend picking
off the infected leaves, and cutting away the distempered part of the shoots. Two or three applications
of warm water will destroy nearly all the insects, and if the plants be afterwards cleared of their dead
bodies by a small sable-hair pencil, and then syringed with cold water, they will soon acquire a fresh
and healthy appearance.”
3183. Ripening the fr u it. Knight finds th a t neither peaches nor nectarines acquire perfection, either
m richness or m flavour, unless they be exposed to the full influence of the sun during their last swelling,
without the intervention of the glass. In consequence, he says, some gardeners take off the lights wholly
beiore the frmt begins to npen ; but he recommends taking them off only in bright sunshine, and putting
them on during rain, and a t night to protect the fruit from dews, &c. ‘’'When the fruit begins to ripen,
which will be about the second week iii July, I gradually expose the house to the open air on fine and dry
days, by drawing down th e lights as much as convenient in the day, and shutting them again in the
evening. It is this which gives th e fruit both flavour and colour.” {Hort. Trans., vol. v. p. 61.)
3184. Gathering the fr u it. MThail advises laying moss or some soft material over the borders, to save
thosewhich drop off of themselves. Nicol recommends the peach-gatherer {fig. 416.). Sir Joseph Banks
quoting from a French author, states that, “ peaches are never eaten in perfection, if suffered to ripen on
the tre e ; they should be gathered ju st before they are quite soft, and kept a t least twenty-four hours in
th e fruit-chamber.” {Hort. T ra n s.,\o \. i. App.) Williams, of Pitmaston, says, “ should the season prove
wet when the peaches are ripe, they should be gathered, and placed for about two days in a dry airy room
before they are ea ten.” {Hort. Trans., vol. ii. p. 113.)
3185. Ripening the wood. Abercrombie says. “ On account of the fruit of most sorts of peaches ripening
somewhat earlier than grapes, and the growth of the shoots stopping sooner than the summer wood of
vines, it is not so often necessary to assist the plant, in September or October, by artificial h e a t; but in
some of the late kinds, if, by the time the external air is down to 60“, the shoots have not taken a greenish
brown tin t as high as several eyes from the origin, and if the blossom-buds on tliese, round when full
swelled, are not distinguishable from the oblong wood-buds, apply a little fire-heat, and continue it till
the leaves fall.”
3186. Resting the wood. The management of the peach-house, when a t rest, Abercrombie says,
“ should be nearly the same as for the grape-house, except when there is but one set of frames to serve
both an earljr peach-house and late grape-house ; in which case, as soon as the young wood of the vines
is perfectly ripened, tho glasses should be brought back to th e peach-houses; for although the fruit of
th e grape is to be set and ripened in a higher heat, the peach tree, as a plant, is more tender than the
vine, aud, independently of forcing, comes into blossom about two months sooner.”
3187. Forcing peaches and nectarines by dxcng-hcat. The following mode is practised a t Dagnam Park :
— “ The house is 70 ft. long by 11 ft. wiilc, the front wall being 5^ ft. deep from the bottom of the lights,
the depth from the roof (there being no upright lights in front) to the g ro u n d : about 3^- ft. of the bottom
of this wall in open brickwork, with a flue in the inside, the top of which is covered with plain tiles.
The inside of the house is filled up with earth to within 2 ft. of the bottom o fth e lights, and the trees
planted as near as possible to the front wail, and trained under the lights or wires, in the same way as
vines. T h e back wall of a pine-pit is built of ttie same height as the front of the peach-house, and 3 ft.
distant from i t ; this, of course, forms a space 3 ft. wide for tho hot dung. As soon as I wish to begin
forcing, this space is filled with hot dung : th e roots, being near the flue, soon begin to feel the warmth,
and I sometimes take off' a few tiles from the top of the flue, so as to admit the steam from the hot dung
into the house. I find this of great advantage, and productive of no ill effects, until the leaf-bud begins
to expand; and if th e stream is not then perfectly sweet and moderate, the places left to admit it must be
secured. You will, of course, observe, tliat while this hot dung lining is forcing tho peaches and nectarincs,
it is assisting to work the pines in th e pine-pit a t the same time, and without any additional
expense, there being also a lining a t th e front of the pine-pit, as well as this one at the back ; and when
it has become cooled by frequent turnings, I cither make cucumber-beds of it, or take it inside the
peach-house or vinery. F or these live years past, I have never failed in producing an abundant crop of
poaches and nectarines by the above method.” {Brcesc, in Hort. Trans., vol. v. p. 219.)
3188. Forcing the peach tree in pots. “ All the varieties of the peach and nectarine,” Abercrombie
observes, “ are extremely well suited for forcing in large pots or tubs. Small plants, intended to come
ill before or after those in the borders, may be excited, in the flrst stage, in a distinct house ; so as tho
temperature of that in which they are brought to finish fruiting be suited to thcir progress. Tlie compost
for plants in cradles ought to be lighter and richer than the mould in the borders.” The pots or tubs
should be such as not to contain less than a cubic foot of earth ; th e soil should be lighter and richer than
th a t recommended for the borders, and should be of such a nature as that frequent watering would not
render it coagulated or retentive ; liquid manure should be plentifully supplied, to make up, In some
degree, for the confinement of th e roots. They are best forced in a peach-house, but succeed in a vinery
or succession-stove; best of all, however, in a pit or Dutch frame, where the temperature can be regulated
a t pleasure, and where they are near the glass. Great care must be taken to supply them regularly
with water, for which purpose some place saucers under the pots ; others cover their surface with moss,
, 'hat is better,juiiei,
fresh cow or rotten horse-dung. Casing the pots with ropes made of moss is also a
Of very good method, s it not only ^ ^preserves a uniform degree ^ of moisture, but also -
of temperature.
course, th e moss must not be watered, especially where the sun could act upon it„ This ____ will be obvious,
,
when it is considered how intense a degree of cold may be produced by a bandage of wet cloth on a bottle
of wine or water, when exposed to the sun. Covertile bulb of a thermometer w ith calico, and pour ether
upon it, and 30° of cold will soon be produced, on the hottest day in summer.
3189. P t’iTc/iriws fully grown may be taken from the wall, und forced in pits heated by dung. The
practice is common in Holland, and has been introduced into England by a Dutch gardener, Mr. Nieraun,
a t Hylands, in Essex. It will be found described a t length in the Gardener's Magazine, vol. iii. p. 390. ;
but from th e quantity of manure which it requires, imd the much greater degree of c-are and labour,
requisite for forcing in houses placed against walls, it cannot be recommended for general use.
■'190. Feachtrees as standards. The peach bears remarkably well in the standard form, planted in the
middle of a house ; and the flavour of the fruit is universally acknowledged to be preferable to that grown
on the trellis, from the comparatively free circulation of air.
S e c t . IV. Culture o f the Cherry-house.
3191. No fr u it is more difficult to force than the cherry. The blossoms of forced trees
avc apt to fall oif before the fmit is set, and the frnit will keep falling off before and after
they arc as large as peas.
3192. Soil. MTliail says, “ take light, sandy, rich, mellow earth, and make a border of it the whole
width of the house, and 4 ft. deep.” N ico l: — “ The border should be from 24 in. to 30 in deep ; the