23 4 T IB E T .
very conversant with the various customs of different nations, Énd who
probably would have considered, any obvious deviation from their
own, in no very fiydürafrle point of ' never hesitated, when
waiting upon the Chief, to salute him in his own way- The letters I
received in Tibet and Sootan, were constantly accompanied by a
pelong scarf, and, in conformity with the custom, I always sent Onfe’in
return. Of so much moment indeed, in their estimation, is the observance
of this formality, that Mr. Goodlad, the Resident at Rungpörë,
informed mé, that the Raja of Bootan, once returned to him a letter he
had forwarded from the Governor General, merely because it came
unattended with this bulky incumbrance, to testify its authenticity.
We passed this day with little Or no interruption, in a high degree
sensible of the superior comfort of a warm and solid habitation, over
thin and airy tents. The season was already becoming, to the sensations
of a people who had not tong quitted the tropics, most keenly
cold ; and the quiet and retirement we now enjoyed, afforded us a comfortable
relief from the fatigue and restlessness of mind, produced by
the bustle of a tong and rapid journey. Our habitation was found,
upon examination, greatly to exceed our expectations. The rooms were
commodious, and even elegant ; and the arrangement of every thing
was as convenient as could possibly be wished. We occupied a part
of the palace of the latest structure, which had been built by the late
Teshoo Lama, for his private residence.
We had already been abundantly supplied, with all that could
satisfy the calls of our immediate wants. Servants belonging tó the
Regent’s household were appointed to attend me, not only in the
TIBET. 235
capacity ofbpessengers, to hte senEfsii; any service abroad, but also to
assist hOsfaeSs<:~/-and, thi,e Ijypndly tokens, of the gqoddts-*
position.erteFta'inestotowards ugg could .uot|.bpk-ifid .opr «inds with
satisfaction}, and intimate the-most! auspicious presage. respejEttog' the
Towards the, closeof'the evening, I.recejye^a y^t.frpm
who had bepn.seijfc tojftuet me by thevRegenit, W-tiilf;| lpsjded jjat
His appearance and* manpprsi
tures-ofitbe Tibetian, which are, ihjggpsr^} high' .hiqj>
softened' byra cheerful, intelligent,Iand
nance. I could not but fgpnosk'P'J^hitjstiionge^.
favour^ nor* did any conduct of his, that |g
in theislightest degree, to alter thaLg^dM^W0®.- -\0DS
tinried in the. monastery, his, attentions were urjremitted, .andifowdatys
passed,’ in which he did not spend sethe hours ®yith, He was
my-iinstructor in. the.’language -of.Tibet; and, when tirede with, the,
repetition ,©£guttural and. nasal squads^which-1 found this language.
in>a great degree to consist, lie wouldjwijh’tthanitmost cheerfulness,--,
atcept my chalfengoto a. trial of skill at chess; in wbicMbwgh i
..sometimes came off victorious, I was rather disposed- to attribute my
aaecess fa his urbanity, than to my o.wm superior pfey. Th^Sj^tipEi
arid movement of every piece, I fouh|'.to be thmsaj^gjf-^nildihy game
was conducted by the same rules, which regular our pipy in England-*.
These visits continued reguldrfy, until he was^summqpe^t.Q.a distqqt
part of Tibet on the- public service. I folk in his departurq,:'thgdQ§dl of
an agreeable companion and an useful instructor, aud
II h