in the water, that it came fometimes into the bo at; a circum-
ftance which was by no means pleafant to voyagers who had fo
recently changed their mode o f travelling, and who were better
acquainted with the dangers o f land than water. Here we are
then, entered into a country where all communication by land is
precluded ; no more roads, nor horfes, nor Carriages o f any k in d ;
in a country where you may travel about four hundred miles
without ever feeing either a fingle horfe, or any road.
Kaulimpe is the firft village on the left bank o f the river, where
we changed our boat. W e found here a lax-pata, or palifade for
catching falmon. The people there had caught, in the courfe o f
the day, to the amount o f three hundred pounds weight o f that
filh. W e bought one o f the largeft o f their falmon, and learned
for the firft time to eat it raw. It is cut into ilices tranfverfely and
put in fa i t ; when falted, it is left in a wooden difh with a little
water, and after three days this raw falmon is delicious-eating.
It is a favourite diih with the firft nobility o f Stockholm, info-
much that they feldom give a fine dinner when raw falmon is
not p'refented on the table. This kind o f provifion was a great
refource to us during our navigation o f the rivers, as we were able
to preferve it a long time, and might eafily drefs it, at leaft as
often as we could find the neceflary trifling ingredients.
A t the village Tolufis, otherwife named Juoxange, eight miles
from Kaulimpe, we changed boats and boatmen for the fecond
time. This voyage was ftill more tempeftuous than the former.
Our men, like their predeceflors, wiihed to take advantage o f the
wind,
wind, and we afcended, with the help o f a fail, amidft falls and
rocks, where we expeited every moment to go to the bottom. It
requires a moft accurate knowledge o f the bed o f the river to
venture on this navigation; and for this reafon it is but prudent
to change boat and boatmen at each village, as the peafants are
all perfe&ly matters o f the channel in their refpe&ive bounds. At
certain intervals you will find in the whole breadth o f the river
but one opening where the boat can pafs, and whoever is not apprized
o f it will probably run his boat amongft a thoufand rocks
without fucceeding, but not without the moft imminent danger
o f periihing.
Having arrived at Kattila Kofki, the boatmen took do.wn their
fail and fhewed us their addrefs in attending againft the rapid
current o f the catarafts. Kattila Kofki is-along feries o f waterfalls,
formed by the ftony bed' o f the river, and by huge rocks
which rife above the furface o f the water. Thefc catarafts are
particularly famous on the map, as being the place which cor-
refponds to- that divifion o f the globe known, by the name o f the
Polar Circle- T o attend in a fmall boat fuch a formidable fuc-
ceffion o f catarafts, where the water is almoft every where rolling
down in foam, would at firft fight feem im p o flib le b u t nothing
is -impoffible to man, whom habits, have rendered familiar
to danger. T h o fe . Finlandifh Laplanders, befides an addrefs peculiar
to themfelves, have what perhaps is o f ftill more confe-
quence— the moft perfect coolnefs and apathy.. They take their
places, one at the head and the other at the ftern o f their canoe,
and