approaching Simoda from the sea. Kook island, in latitude 34° 33' 50"
N., longitude 138° 57' 16" E., is about one hundred and twenty feet high
and a third of a mile long, with precipitous shores, and a surface of irregular
outline. Covering the top there is a thick growth of shrubs, grass,
weeds, and moss. From the summit of this island overfalls were seen,
hearing N. $ W.. distant a mile or a mile and a half, which may have been
caused by rocks or reefs. An effort was made to investigate the cause, but
without success, in consequence of the strong current and the fresh winds.
The Japanese fishermen, however, deny that there is any danger to navigation
in that direction. North by west from Rock island, distant two miles, are
the Ukona rocks, which are really two in number, though at a distance they
generally appear as one. The larger reaches a height of seventy feet. Between
these rocks and Kock island there is a current setting east northeastwardly,
and running at a rate of quite four miles an hour. From Kock,
Centre island, so called from its being the point from which the treaty
limits are measured, bears N. i E., at a distance of five and a half miles,
and from the two Ukona rocks, N. by E. -J-E., distant three and a half miles.
Centre island is high, conical in shape, and is covered with a full growth
of trees, while through its base passes, from one side to the other, a.natural
cave. Its latitude was found, by careful observation, to be 34° 39' 49" N.,
and its longitude 138° 57' 50" E., with a variation of 52' westwardly.
High water, full and change, five hours. The extreme rise of the tide is <
five feet seven inches upon the shores of the island, and the mean rise three ?
feet. Buisako is the name of an islet which, covered with trees and shrubs, i
and about forty feet in height, lies N. N. E. from Centre island. Off the •
village of Susaki, at a distance of one-third of a mile from the shore, is a
ledge of rocks upon which the swell is always breaking.
Vessels bound to the harbor of Simoda from the southward and westward
should make Cape Idzu, latitude 34° 32' N., longitude 138° 51' E.,
from which Kock island bears E. S. E. A E., distant about six miles. I f •
the weather is at all clear, the chain of islands at the entrance of the lower
bay or gulf of Yedo will, at the same time, be plainly visible. Between
Kock island and the main land there are a number of rocks projecting aboVS
water, among which the Japanese junks freely pass; but a ship should not
attempt the passage inside the island, unless in case of urgent necessity, as
the northeasterly current, which sweeps along this coast, seems to be at this
noint capricious both in direction and velocity. G-iving Bock island the berth
of a mile, the harbor of Simoda will be in full view, bearing N. S W., distant
five miles. Vandalia bluff, on the east side of the entrance, may be
recognized by a grove of pines on its summit, and the village of Susaki,
which is situated about one-third of the way between the bluff and a sharp
point called Cape Diamond, making out to the eastward of the entrance to
the harbor. A vessel standing in from Rock island will probably pass
through a number of tide-rips; hut soundings will not be obtained by the
hand-lead until near the entrance of the harbor, when the navigator will find
himself in from seventeen to twenty-four fathoms. Should the wind be
from the northward and fresh, it would be expedient to anchor at the mouth
of the harbor until it lulls or shifts, or until the vessel can be conveniently
warped in, as the breezes usually blow in flaws and are always baffling.
Approaching from the northward and eastward, a vessel can pass on
either side of the island of Oho-sima, from the centre of which Cape Diamond
bears W. S. W. f W., distant about twenty miles. The navigator approaching
from the east will not find the harbor opening until he is well
inside of Cape Diamond. Between Oho-sima and Simoda no dangers are
known to exist, but the northeasterly current must be borne constantly in
mind, particularly at night and in thick weather. Its general strength is
from two to three miles per hour; but as this, as well as its direction, is
much influenced by the local winds, headlands, islands, rocks, and other
causes, neither can be relied on.
Should Oho-sima be obscured by thick weather before reaching Cape
Diamond, the pilot should endeavor to sight Kock island, for there are no
very conspicuous objects on the main land by which the stranger can recognize
the harbor at a distance, and the shore appears as one unbroken line.
To the northward of Cape Diamond is the hay of Sira-hama, which is quite
deep, and as it has several sand beaches it may be taken for Simoda; but as
this bay is approached, Cape Diamond will shut in the Ukona rocks and
Rock island to the southward, while in the Simoda roads they are both visible
from all points. To the westward of the harbor there are several
beaches and banks of sand, which, as they can be plainly discerned at the
distance of six or eight miles, will serve as good landmarks.
A vessel from the southward and eastward should pass to the west of
Meac-sima, which may be known by a remarkable snow-white cliff on its
western side, and a patch on the summit toward the north. To the southward
and westward of the island there are groups of dangerous rocks, some
fifteen or twenty feet high, which were called by the Commodore, Redfield,
after the well-known scientific investigator of that name. One is in latitude
33° 56' 13" N., and longitude 138° 48' 31" E.; the other in latitude
33° 57' 31" N., and in longitude 138° 49' 13" E.
There are hut two hidden dangers in the harbor. The first is the Southampton
rock, so called from the ship which touched upon it, and lying in
mid-channel, bearing N. * W. from Vandalia bluff, between which and Centre
island it is situated about three-fourths of the way. The rock is estimated
to be about twenty-five feet in diameter, and has two fathoms of
water covering it. I t was marked by the surveyors with a white spar-buoy.
The other concealed danger is the Supply rook, which bears S. by W., at a