in southern Asia, and on the shores of the Arctic; all western Christendom
knows it, all honors it.
At length the feast was over, and the American guests took their departure,
the procession forming in the same order as before. The subordinate
Japanese officials escorted it to the gate, and the old Pe-ching again took
his station in advance. On starting down the hill, four little ponies which
had gone up without finding riders, were now led by the grooms to the rear
of the procession, and some of the younger officers determined to try their
mettle in a ride down. They were very small animals, of bay color, but
exceedingly spirited; and, kicking and plunging with untiring vivacity, and
somewhat of temper, treated, at first, with sublime contempt all efforts to
reduce them to a gravity befitting the occasion, and indignantly resisted
every attempt to induce them, with the rational sobriety of discreet brutes,
to take their places in the rear, and march understandingly, as became
them. Like ill-bred ponies, as they were, they kicked up their heels, and
endeavored to do much as they pleased. This, however, merely afforded
more fun to the officers than if the wiry little creatures had behaved themselves
discreetly as part of the American procession.
The descent of the hill was rather warm, as it was not far from noon,
and the sun shone full in the faces of the procession; but, on reaching the
wooded slopes, it was met by the grateful sea-breeze, and the boats were
seen quietly resting on the waters of the bay, while their crews were scattered
in groups under the trees, watching the coming on of the procession,
and waiting to know whether due honor had been shown to the United States
in the person of their “ Old Commodore.” Each boat had the American
colors flying, and Jack was made happy by the assurance that all possible
respect had been paid to his flag. By half-past two, the whole procession
was again on board the ships, without any accident or untoward incident
having occurred to mar either the pleasure or success of the trip; and thus
ended the grand official visit to the palace. I t was a judicious determination
on the part of the Commodore to make it; and, having announced such determination
to the Lew Chewans, it was especially wise to carry it through to
the letter. The moral influence produced by such a steadfast adherence to
his avowed purposes very soon exhibited itself. I t was part of the Commodore’s
deliberately formed plan, in all his intercourse with these orientals,
to consider carefully before he announced his resolution to do any act; but
having announced it, he soon taught them to know that he would do precisely
what he had said he would. T o this single circumstance much of his
success is to be attributed. He never deceived them by any falsehood, nor
ever gave them reason to suppose that his purposes could be altered by their
lies and stratagems. They, of course, saw at once that he was resolute, and
that it was dangerous to trifle with him. His whole diplomatic policy was
simply to stick to the truth in everything—to mean just what he said, and
do just what he promised. Of course, it triumphed over a system which
admitted of no truth, but for purposes of deception.
Several little circumstances connected with the excursion attracted the
attention of the Commodore, and, as illustrative of manners and customs,
deserve a passing notice. The first was the exceeding cleanliness of the
Lew Chewans, and their striking contrast to the Chinese in this particular.
The Commodore, speaking of Shui, says : “ Never have I seen a city or town
exhibiting a greater degree of cleanliness; not a particle of dirt, or even
dust, could be seen, so different is it from the filthiness of all Chinese
cities.”
The road over which the procession passed was remarkably well constructed.
I t was elaborately paved with coral rock, very neatly fitted-
together, and the upper surface rendered smooth, either by artificial means
or the constant attrition of travel.
The peasantry who hung upon the edges of the procession seemed to be
of tbe lowest orders seen in Lew Chew, and exhibited a squalid and rather
miserable appearance; many of them were naked, with the exception of a
small piece of cloth about the loins; and among the thousands of these
people attracted by tbe novelty of the spectacle, singular as it may appear,
n o ta woman was to be seen. The great population of the island may^
therefore, fairly be inferred from the large multitudes assembled, composed
of but one half of the common people. These men who were seen probably
compose the laboring class, receiving for their daily toil scanty food and
harsh treatment. The idlers are the priests, and the hordes of spies and
policemen who throng the highways, and who are watching every thing by
day and night.
On the whole, the Commodore was pleased with the suavity and politeness
of the higher classes, and with the seeming cordiality of the hospitality
which had been shown him; if the Lew Chewans were not sincere, they
were, at least, very good actors. As to the culinary skill that had been
employed in preparing the regent’s feast, there were certainly dishes of the
composition of which the guests were ignorant, but still they were, in general,
savory and very good; much more so than those presented by Chinese
cookery. Whenever a fresh course was brought in at the regent’s feast, the
host and his brother dignitaries rose, and emptied their small cups of saki
to the health of the guests; and the regent always gave a signal to the
Commodore when to commence on a new course.
At the reception in the palace, though the queen did not appear, yet the
Commodore was quite satisfied that the story he had been told about her
desperate'illness, by the regent, was all fiction; and, in fact, if she were
not as some suspected, a myth, he thought it not improbable that she and
her attendant ladies were behind the screen, looking through some crevice at
the western strangers, possibly not a little amused at the novel show. At