town-house for one night, surrounded by the natives, and this was all that
was exacted or taken. The next day the Commodore sent a sick officer, with
his servant, to the place, and those who slept there on the previous night
came on board.*
There was evident opposition on the part of the authorities, at first, to
visits on shore from the ships. This was expected, for the narratives of all
who had visited the island had prepared the squadron for this. Notwithstanding,
however, our officers did go on shore and wander over the town of
Napha and its suburbs, objects of no little interest and curiosity to the
natives, who followed them in crowds, and were very polite, bowing low to
them as they passed. But, despite all this courtesy, our officers were quite
sensible that the eyes of spies were upon them continually, and that every
movement was watched. The women and children were taught by these
officials to run away, as if affrighted, on the approach of the Americans, and,
in short, a polite suspicion characterized the intercourse on the part of the
* We have before us an original note from the regent of Lew Chew, addressed to the
Commodore, with a translation of the same, made by Mr. Williams. We insert the latter
as affording a specimen of the Lew Chew epistolary style, premising that to represent themselves
as very poor and obscure, and indeed unworthy almost of notice, was the uniform
practice of the officials of the island, in all their communications with our officers. It seems
to he part of their settled policy; for we find the same humble and depreciatory representations
of themselves pervading their letters to the British officers, on the visit of the Bishop
of Victoria. The communication below relates to the two subjects of the Commodore’s
visit to the palace at Shui, and granting a house for the use of the squadron on shore; both
of which events they strove hard, by various artifices, to prevent.
A prepared petition. Sh£ng Ta-mu, regent of Lew Chew, &c., &c., hereby urgently
petitions upon important matters. On the 21st day of the present month (this, of course, is
a translation of their mode of expressing time into ours) I received your excellency’s verbal
orders that on the 30th day of the present month, at 10 o’clock, you had concluded to come
to the capital to return your respects. Also, on the 26th instant, Ching Changlieh, the
mayor of Napha, received your excellency’s communication saying, that on the 30th instant,
at 10 o’clock, it was decided to go up to Shui, the capital, to return the visit of the regent
a t the palace, and wished this to be distinctly stated in the proper way.
Now, it is plain to all that the capital and towns of this little country are quite different
from the provincial capitals of China: here there is only a palace for the king, and no halls,
official residences, markets, or shops; and up to this time, no envoy from a foreign country
has ever entered into the palace. In February, of last year, an English general came here,
bearing a public letter, and was strenuous to enter the palace, there to deliver i t ; the high
officers repeatedly requested that it might be given them elsewhere, but he refused, and
forced himself into the palace. At that time, from the young prince and queen dowager
down to the lowest officers and people, all were alarmed and fearful, hardly keeping soul
and body together; and the queen dowager has been dangerously sick even to this day, the
physicians giving her broths and medicines for her alarming ailments which are not yet
removed. All the officers in the country are really troubled and grieved on this account;
and having heard that the ruler of your country is endued with great kindness and vast
compassion, and highly prizes humanity and benevolence, they urgently beg of your excel-
Lew Chewans. The sick officer, however, on shore at Tumai, seemed to be
on the best possible terms with the natives, and they' certainly were kind.
The inhabitants appear to be naturally not unamiable, but the experience of
our officers does not altogether sustain the glowing accounts of the simplicity,
friendliness and contentment of the people. Either Captain Basil Hall was
mistaken, or the national traits have changed sinoe the time of his visit. He
represents them as without arms, ignorant even of money, docile, tractable
and honest, scrupulously obedient to their rulers and their laws, and, in fact,
as loving one another too well wilfully to harm or wrong each other. Many
of the officers of the squadron went to the island, expecting to find these
beautiful traits of character; but gradually and painfully undeceived in
many particulars, they were constrained to acknowledge that human nature
in Lew Chew is very much the same as it is elsewhere.
The system of government, of which secret espionage forms a distinguishing
feature, must beget in the inferior classes cunning and falsehood, and
lency, that respectfully embodying the humanity and benevolence of your sovereign, and his
great love for men, you will take the case of the queen dowager, and her severe indisposition,
into your favorable consideration, and cease from going into the palace to return
thanks. If you deem it necessary to make this compliment, please go to the residence of
the prince, there to make your respects in person. Respecting the matter of renting a house
for residing, it has been stated by the mayor of Napha that, on the 24th instant, he had
clearly shown forth the circumstances; and, on the 26th, had received your excellency’s
reply, in which it was remarked—“ that, whenever the officers and men from the ships
were on shore, rambling about, they had no place of resort, and that, as there were no inns
in the country, if they were overtaken by rain or bad weather, or were detained so that they
were unable to return on board before night, there was no place to rest at, unless they
abruptly entered the houses of the people; that, as the men on board ship were ignorant of
the Lew Chewan language, if they wanted only a cup of water they could not get i t ; for
these reasons, one or two houses were required, and if they were wanted for other purposes,
these were all of a peaceable and friendly nature, but it was indispensable to have one. The
mayor (of Napha) having intimated that the building already occupied by the sailors was a
kung-kwdn, or public hall, if the officers would designate another building, they would remove
to it according to their wishes.” I find that the building now occupied is a public
house, for the deliberations of officers and police, and meetings on public business; but
having sought out a place which can be used, I find that the Shing-hien-sz1, or Holy Manifesting
monastery, for preserving the anchorage of ships, can be obtained for a residence;
and I beg that orders for removal to this place, as a temporary residence, may be given.
Then will the prince and authorities, one and all, be greatly obliged by this great kindness.
An important petition.
Hien fung, 3d year, 4th moon, 27th day, (June 3d, 1853.)
This building might readily have been granted on the first application. It was, we
believe, the same used by the English, on Captain Hall’s visit. As to the young prince, the
reader will be surprised to learn that there were the strongest reasons in the minds of many
for suspecting him to be an imaginary personage. No one believed a syllable of the story
about the queen dowager’s illness; indeed, there was no evidence to the Americans that
there was a queen dowager.