and customs. This silence on the part of the Japanese was a serious obstacle
to acquiring that minute information about a strange people of whom curiosity
is naturally on the alert to know everything. Much progress will, however,
never he obtained toward a thorough knowledge of Japan, until some
of our men of intelligence are established in the country in the character of
consular agents, merchants, or missionaries, who may thus be enabled to
acquire the language, and mingle in intimate social relations with the
people.
The common people were found much more disposed to fraternize than
were the Japanese officials. I t seemed evident that nothing but a fear of
punishment deterred the former from entering into free intercourse with the
Americans; but they were closely watched by their superiors, as in fact the
latter were by their equals. ,
In Japan, as in Lew Chew, probably, a closer intimacy would have
ensued, during the visits of the squadron, with all classes, if they had been
allowed to follow their own natural inclinations, and had not been so jealously
guarded by the numerous spies. No one, even of the highest dignitaries,
is intrusted with public business of importance, without having one or more
associated with him, who is ever on the alert to detect and take note of the
slightest suspicion of delinquency. •
Kura-Kawa-Kahei, the prefect, and Yenoske, the interpreter, paid almost
daily visits to the ships, and had always something to communicate in
regard to supplying the vessels with water and fresh provisions, the
arrangements for which were under their especial care. When they came
on board, as they were subordinate dignitaries, they were not received
by the Commodore himself, but by some of his chief officers, who were
delegated for the purpose, and acted as his medium of communication with
them. After one of these interviews, (March 14,) as Kura-Kawa and
Yenoske were about taking leave, a Japanese official hurried aboard from
Kanagawa, and, in a state of considerable excitement, reported that an
American officer had passed through that town, and was walking very fast
toward Yedo. His appearance, so said the messenger, was causing great
excitement, and it was feared that unpleasant consequences might ensue.
The Japanese officials, on hearing this, declared that the conduct of the
Amercian officer was in violation of their laws and of the promises made to
them by the Admiral The Commodore; when informed of the fact, directed
guns to be fired immediately, and a signal made recalling all boats and
officers to their respective ships. He also prepared written orders, which
were sent in different directions, commanding all persons belonging to the
squadron to repair immediately on board. A copy of these orders was, on
the instant, dispatched by the Japanese officials, then in the Powhatan, in
pursuit of the American officer, reported to be on his way to Yedo. The
Commodore’s prompt action was handsomely acknowledged by the authorities,
who sent to him, next day, a formal expression of their gratitude.
The American officer, whose intrusion had created so great an excitement,
was Mr. Bittinger, the chaplain of the steamer Susquehanna. While
taking a walk on shore, this gentleman’s curiosity prompted him to extend
his observations somewhat beyond the usual circuit of some four or five
miles, within which the Japanese authorities had contracted the movements
‘of their visitors. Starting from Yoku-hama, opposite to where the squadron
was anchored, the enterprising investigator pushed on to the town of Kanagawa,
some three miles further up the bay, where he was accosted by some
of the Japanese officials and the interpreter, Gohatsiro, who urgently solicited
him to return. He was not, however, to be so easily balked of his
purpose, and continued his journey, followed by the Japanese officers, who
dogged his steps at every turn until he reached Kamasaki. Here there was
a river to cross, and he tried to prevail upon the Japanese boatmen to ferry
him to the opposite side, but they refused in spite of bribes and threats, in
the course of which the chaplain, if the Japanese accounts are to be believed,
drew his sword. He now pursued his way higher up the river with
the hope of finding a place that might be forded, and had just reached a
very promising looking crossing, the depths of which he was about trying,
when the messenger, who had hurried in rapid dispatch, from the steamer
Powhatan, accosted him with the written order of the Commodore. “ He,”
thus reported the Japanese authorities, with their usual minuteness of description,
“ read it, walked four steps further, read it again, then suddenly
returned, and intimated his intention of going back to the ship.” The chaplain,
in the course of his wanderings, had an opportunity of seeing one of
the largest towns of Japan, that of Kanagawa, which, with its numerous
wide streets, and its crowded population, had quite an imposing appearance.
He penetrated into several of the dwellings and temples, and, by his pertinacious
perseverance, succeeded in obtaining, in one of the shops, some
Japanese money in exchange for American coin. The native authorities
seemed particularly worried in regard to this last matter, as it was so great
an offence against their laws. The Japanese, in their report of the occurrence,
stated that, the American officer had gone into a shop by the roadside
and asked the keeper to allow him to see some coins. The Japanese
shopman complied with the request, but as he seemed somewhat chary in the
display of his treasure, the chaplain insisted upon seeing more, which demand
was also granted. Scales were now asked for, which being brought,
the chaplain took out some silver pieces, and weighing them in one balance
against the Japanese gold and silver coins, mixed indiscriminately in a heap,
in the other, transferred the latter to his pockets, and left his American
coin to console the shopman for the loss of his Japanese change. The
authorities further reported that the chaplain was not content with gentle