All, of course, were eager to bear a part in the ceremonies of the day, but
all could not possibly go, as a sufficient number must be left to do ship’s
duty. Many of the officers and men were selected by lot, and when the
full complement, which amounted to nearly three hundred, was filled up,
each one busied himself in getting his person ready for the occasion. The
officers, as bad been ordered, were in full official dress, while the sailors and
marines were in their naval and military uniforms of blue and white.
Before eight bells in the morning watch had struck, the Susquehanna
and Mississippi moved slowly down the bay. Simultaneously with this
movement of our ships, six Japanese boats were observed to sail in the
same direction, but more within the land. The government striped flag distinguished
two of them, showing the presence of some high officials, while
the others carried red banners, and were supposed to have on board a retinue
or guard of soldiers. On doubling the head-land which separated the former
anchorage from the bay below, the preparations of the Japanese on the shore
eame suddenly into view. The land bordering the head of the bay was gay
with a long stretch of painted screens of cloth, upon which was emblazoned
the arms of the Emperor. Nine tall standards stood in the centre of an
immense number of banners of divers lively colors, which were arranged on
either side, until the whole formed a crescent of variously tinted flags, which
fluttered brightly in the rays of the morning sun. From the tall standards
were suspended broad pennons of rich scarlet, which swept the ground with
their flowing length. On the beach in front of this display were ranged
regiments of soldiers, who stood in fixed order, evidently arrayed to give an
appearance of martial force, that the Americans might be duly impressed
with the military power of the Japanese.
As the beholder faced the bay, he saw on the left of the village of G ori-
Hama a straggling group of peaked-roofed houses, built between the beach
and the base of the high ground which ran in green acclivities behind, and
ascended from height to height to the distant mountains. A luxuriant valley
or gorge, walled in with richly wooded hills, opened at the head of the
bay, and breaking the uniformity of the curve of the shore gave a beautiful
variety to the landscape. On the right some hundred Japanese boats, or
more, were arranged in parallel lines along the margin of the shore, with a
red flag flying at the stem of each. The whole effect, though not startling,
was novel and cheerful, and everything combined to give a pleasing aspect
to the picture. The day was bright, with a clear sunlight which seemed to
give fresh vitality alike to the verdant hill-sides, and the gay banners, and
the glittering soldiery. Back from the beach, opposite the centre of the
curved shore of the bay, the building, just constructed for the reception,
rose in three pyramidal shaped roofs, high above the surrounding houses. I t
was covered in front by striped cloth, which was extended in screens to either
side. I t had a new, freBh look, indicative of its recent erection, and with
its peaked summits was not unlike, in the distance, a group of very large
ricks of grain.
Two boats approached as the steamers neared the opening of the bay,
and when the anchors were dropped they came alongside the Susquehanna.
Kayama Yezaiman, with his two interpreters, came on board, followed immediately
by Nagazima Saboroske and an officer in attendance, who had
come in the second boat. They were duly received at the gangway, and
conducted to seats on the quarter deck. All were dressed in full official
costume, somewhat different from their ordinary garments. Their gowns,
though of the usual shape, were much more elaborately adorned. The material
was of very rich silk brocade of gay colors, turned up with yellow
velvet, and the whole dress was highly embroidered with gold lace in various
figures, among which was conspicuously displayed on the back, sleeves, and
breast the arms of the wearer. Saboroske, the sub-governor of Uraga, wore a
pair of very broad but very short trowsers, which when his legs (which was
not often the case) stood still and together, looked very much like a slit petticoat,
while below, his nether limbs were partly naked and partly covered by
black woollen socks. Saboroske, in spite of his elaborate toilette and his
finery, all bedizened with gold thread, glossy silk, and gay colors, did not
produce a very impressive effect ; but by his comical appearance provoked
mirth rather than admiration. He had, in fact, very much the appearance
of an unusually brilliant knave of trumps.
A signal was now hoisted from the Susquehanna as a summons for the
boats from the other ships, and in the course of half an hour they had all
pulled alongside with their various officers, sailors, and marines, detailed for
the day’s ceremonies. The launohes and cutters numbered no less than fifteen,
and presented quite an imposing array ; and with all on board of them
in proper uniform, a picturesque effect was not wanting. Captain Buchanan,
having taken his place in his barge, led the way, flanked on either side by
the two Japanese boats containing the governor and vice-governor of Uraga
with their respective suites ; and these dignitaries acted as masters of ceremony
and pointed out the course to the American flotilla. The rest of the
ships’ boats followed after in order, with the cutters containing the two
bands of the steamers, who enlivened the occasion with their cheerful muBic.
The boats skimmed briskly over the smooth waters; for such was the
skill and consequent rapidity of the Japanese scullers, that our sturdy oarsmen
were put to their mettle to keep up with their guides. When the
boats had reaohed half way to the shore the thirteen guns of the Susquehanna
began to boom away and re-echo among the hills. This announced
the departure of the Commodore, who, stepping into his barge, was rowed
off to the land.
The guides in the Japanese boatB pointed to the landing place toward
the centre of the curved shore, where a temporary wharf had been built out