and anchored in the outer road, and Commodore Perry had an opportunity
of forming his acquaintance, and of interchanging with him, as well as with
Monsieur de Bourboulon, and, indeed, with all the principal residents of
Macao, those acts of hospitality and kindness which are invariably allied
to a just appreciation of mutual courtesy.
With Governor Giumaraes, an officer of the Portuguese navy, whom the
Commodore had met before on the coast of Africa, there were the most
friendly and intimate relations, as well as with Captain Loreiro, of the same
service; and it is due to both these officers to acknowledge their courteous
deportment in the course of all the official transactions with them. The utmost
good feeling prevailed in the intercourse with Sir George Bonham, the
British superintendent of affairs in China and governor of Hong Kong,’ and
with the military and naval commanders-in-chief, as well as with the mandarins
of the country and the local authorities.
Two events occurred in 1849 at Macao, during the administration of the
Portuguese Governor Amaral, an officer of distinction, and universally esteemed,
which, although they were published at the time of their occurrence
in the Hong Kong newspapers, are still so strikingly illustrative of the fallen
fortunes and depressed national character of the Portuguese, that it may
not be amiss in this place to relate them. The first event alluded to, grew
out of one of those acts of folly which are sometimes exhibited by the ill-
regulated enthusiasm of fanatics in foreign countries, where the religion
happens to differ from their own. A young Englishman attached to a missionary
school at Hong Kong, made a visit to Macao, and shortly after
landing he espied one of those religious processions so common in Roman
Catholic countries, in which what is called the Host is conducted with great
pomp through the principal streets, attended by numerous priests and others
in full costume, with lighted candles, the swinging of censers, and all the
rich display of Romish ecclesiastical ceremony.
This young man on seeing, for the first time, perhaps, this singular exhibition
of what to him seemed nothing but an insult to true Christianity, and making,
perhaps, not sufficient allowance for differences of opinion and religious
belief, and for the sincerity, however mistaken, of those of another faith
than his own, conceived the idea of showing his contempt for such pageant
ry. He accordingly placed himself conspicuously in the way of the proces-'
sion, and refused to take off his hat when the Host passed. This act, if unwilling,
from conscientious motives, to perform, he might have easily avoided
by turning away and passing down another street. Many Protestants in
Romish countries do so. The young man, however, did not act in this very
obvious and simple manner, by which he might have readily saved his conscience,
and allowed others who differed from him to act in accordance with
their views. When the Englishman was observed purposely standing in
the way of the procession, and covered, he was mildly requested by the
priests to take off his hat or move away; but so far from complying with
this request, the young enthusiast pressed his hat closer on his head, and
stood his ground like a martyr. He was now warned by the armed police
to uncover or to retire, but being still, obstinate, notwithstanding this summons,
he was arrested and taken to the guard-house.
■ Here was now a catastrophe, one of her Majesty’s subjects shut up in a
Portuguese guard-house. The indignation of Captain Keppel, commanding
the British man-of-war Dido, then at anchor in Macao roads, was greatly
aroused, and a demand was immediately made upon Amaral, the Portuguese
governor, for an unconditional surrender of the Englishman. The
governor asked a short delay, for the purpose of consulting the ecclesiastical
council. In the meantime, a regatta of boats belonging to the United
States ship Plymouth, and the vessel commanded by Captain Keppel, who
had been appointed one of the judges, was to take place. Governor Amaral
and many of the garrison officers were also to be present on the occasion.
The day arrived, and Captain Keppel quietly withdrew himself from the
place, and with a party of marines and some volunteer officers left the outer
roads, the scene of the regatta, pulled on shore, and landed opposite the house
of Mr. Patrick Stewart, and thence passing through an unoccupied house and
garden, in order to avoid the main street, came suddenly upon the guard of
the garrison, and rushing upon the sentinel, rescued by force the Englishman
whose ill-timed enthusiasm had brought about this military outrage.
The second incident, to which allusion has been made, was one of equally
surprising character, and resulted in the death ©f the governor. I t
appears that Amaral was a man of great energy, and ambitious of improving
the town of Macao by opening carriage roads through and about its limited
space. In the governor’s attempts to effect these improvements, he was
charged by the Chinese with desecrating their ancient burial places. He
had received several obscure hints to the effect that his life was in danger,
but paid little or no attention to them. In accordance with his usual practice,
he was riding in the afternoon on the outskirts of the town, the common
resort of equestrians, accompanied by his aid-de-camp, Lieutenant Leite,
also on horseback, while a number of other horsemen were not far off, when,
as he came to a part of the road skirted by a few bushes, a Chinaman, or
perhaps more, as the number was never exactly ascertained, rushed upon
him from behind them. The governor’s bridle was snatched from his single
hand, (for he had only one arm, the other having been lost in battle,) and
he himself dragged from his horse behind the ambuscade of bushes, and his
head cut off and his hand severed, leaving nothing but his maimed and
lifeless body for the startled view of the other horsemen who rode up, and
eagerly but in vain sought after the assassin. No traces were ever discovered
of the dastardly murderer or murderers, and the Portuguese council
of Macao, in spite of the strictest investigations, could never get any clue