cinders, and strata of old lava were traced along the seacoast and in other
parts where deep sections of rock were exposed. A sulphur spring, characterized
by the usual strong odor and taste of sulphuretted hydrogen gas,
was discovered issuing from one of the ravines, and iron pyrites abounded
in many places. The vegetation, too, was such as is generally found in
volcanic countries of the same latitude as the Bonin Islands. I t would
appear that Port Lloyd was at one time the crater of an active volcano,
from which the surrounding hills had been thrown up, while the present
entrance to the harbor was formed by a deep fissure in the side of the cone,
through which a torrent of lava had poured into the sea,, leaving, after its
subsidence, a space into which the waters subsequently were emptied,
bringing with them their usual deposits, which, together with the coral
formation, now forms the bottom and sides of the harbor.
The surface of the island is varied. Plains extend from the basis of
the hills toward the sea-shore, and are composed of a dark vegetable mould,
sometimes five or six feet deep, intermixed with the shells of marine animals,
and the detritus of trap rock, and spread upon a foundation of coral. These
plains are highly fertile, and those now cultivated produce a rich harvest of
sweet potatoes of immense size, Indian corn, sugar-cane of wonderfully
vigorous growth and excellent quality, yams,- taro, melons, and the ordinary
products of a kitchen garden. The Irish potato has been tried, but not
sufficiently long to form an estimate of its probable success. The plains on
the bay only have been cultivated as yet, but there is' every reason to
believe that the others are equally fertile, and might be made to yield
sufficiently to support a large population.
The hills rise in some places by a gentle slope from the plains, and in
others abruptly by steep aseents, which give them the appearance of terraces
rising one above the other. At the head of the bay two prominent peaks
rise, which are known by the name of the Paps, one of which reaches the
elevation of a thousand feet, and the other eleven hundred. They are
clearly seen on entering the harbor, and are important guides to the navigator.
The springs in the northern half of the island, which was the field of
survey now reviewed, are few, two only of which run constantly with a
supply of pure drinking water. In the valleys there are several others, but
they are so brackish or so frequently dry, that they cannot be relied upon as
sources of supply. Through the ravines which intersect the valleys streams
pour down into the sea during the rainy season, but their beds, crowded here
and there with large boulders of trap rock, are hardly moist during the dry
weather.
The flora of the island is tropical, and was observed to be as beautiful as
can be found in any similiar latitude. In the valleys and along the sea
beach a tree of large size, called by the people living on the island the
Cr unieno, was seen in abundance. I t had .a thick and short trunk, with a
gray bark, a very dense foliage, with large oval leaves of smooth surface
and bright green color, arrayed in clusters around the branches, from the
ends of which grew tufts of beautiful white flowers.
Dense forests of palm crowded up the hill-sides and into the ravines,
and were of such close growth that their full development was hindered and
other vegetation prevented. The fan-palm was the most abundant of the
six species observed. Among the various trees was noticed a variety of the
beech of considerable size, a large tree growing in abundance on the mountains,
which somewhat resembled the dog-wood, and an immense mulberry
with an occasional girth of thirteen or fourteen feet. Of smaller trees
and plants, there were the laurel, the juniper, the box-wood tree, fern,
banana, orange, pine-apple, and whortleberry. Lichens, mosses, and various
parasitic: plants were abundant. There were but few kinds of grasses, and
most of them unfit for pasturage. The jungle weed, in the uncultivated
tracts, is so dense that it crowds out almost everything else of its kind.
The animals on the island were mostly imported, but had become wild in
their habits from straying in the woods. Pigeons, finches, crows, and
sandpipers, were found among the native birds, and the tortoise, the iguana,
and a small lizard were the principal indigenous animals seen.
In addition to the two surveys of Peel Island, the interesting results of
which have been just recorded, the Commodore dispatched an officer to
report on the general aspect and character of the island of Stapleton, from
whose statement some valuable facts are derived. Stapleton Island, like the
rest of the Bonin group, is of volcanic origin, and has a varied surface of
plain, hill, and valley, with large tracts of fertile land. A small bay was
found on the western side with apparently deep water, and surrounded by
rocks and mountains varying from 800 to 1,500 feet in height, which protect
it from the S. E. typhoons.
A small promontory and coral reef were observed to divide this bay, and
on the land bordering the northern section was a spring of cool, well-tasting
water, coming out of a rock, and giving a supply of nearly three gallons per
minute. The indigenous productions of Stapleton were the same as those
on the other islands, but the goats which had been introduced there had
increased marvellously, to the extent, it was supposed, of several thousands,
and had become very wild in the course of their undisturbed wanderings
through the secluded ravines and over the savage rocks of the island.
The Commodore, having been long satisfied of the importance of these
islands to commerce1, was induced to visit them, chiefly by a desire of examining
them himself, and recommending Peel Island as a stopping place for
the line of steamers which, sooner or later, must be established between
California and China. To this end he caused the island to be explored, the
harbor to be surveyed, and a few animals to be placed upon two of the
groups of islands, as the commencement of a provision for future wants.
16