fasted with the Commodore. An exploration of the island was resolved on
by the chief. I t was to consist of three parties, two by sea, and one into the
interior. The former were to survey, respectively, the eastern and western
coasts; the latter to make a thorough examination of the interior, and to
collect specimens of its animals, minerals, and vegetables. The Commodore
also resolved to procure a house on shore, and gave notice to Mr. Brown,
the artist in charge of the daguerreotype apparatus, that he must prepare his
materials, occupy the building, and commence the practice of his art.
On the 27th, the Commodore gave permission to the masters’ mates to
take the gig and pull about in the harbor, with a prohibition, however, of
landing or communicating with the natives. Mr. Bayard Taylor was of the
party, and we prefer to give our narrative in his own words, perfeotly satisfied
that we shall thus most gratify the reader. *
“ The crew were Chinamen, wholly ignorant of the use of oars, and our
trip would have been of little avail, had not the sea been perfectly calm.
With a little trouble we succeeded in making them keep stroke, and made
for the coral reef which separates the northern from the oar-channel. The
tide was nearly out, and the water was very shoal on all the approaches to
the reef. We found, however, a narrow channel, winding between the groves
of mimic foliage, and landed on the spongy rock, which rose about a foot
above the water. Here the little pools which seamed the surface were alive
with crabs, snails, star-fish, sea-prickles, and numbers of small fish of the in-
tensest blue color. We found several handsome shells clinging to the coral,
but all our efforts to secure one of the fish failed. The tide was ebbing so
fast that we were obliged to return for fear of grounding the boat. We hung
for some time over the coral banks, enraptured with the beautiful forms and
colors exhibited by this wonderful vegetation of the sea The coral grew in
rounded banks, with clear, deep spaces of water between, resembling, in
miniature, ranges of hills covered with autumnal forests. The loveliest tints
of blue, violet, pale green, yellow, and white gleamed through the waves,
and all the varied forms of vegetable life were grouped together, along the
edges of cliffs and precipices, hanging over the chasms worn by currents
below. Through those paths, and between the stems of the coral groves, the
blue fish shot hither and thither, like arrows of the purest lapis-lazuli; and
others of a dazzling emerald color, with tails and fins tipped with gold, eluded
our chase like the green bird in the Arabian story. Far down below, in the
* It is due to Mr. Taylor here to state that we draw the principal part of the story of
the first visit to Lew Chew from his journal, and are glad often to adopt his language, as
we can frame none better. Commodore Perry has desired that we should do so. His own
journal is less full in some particulars of this part of the voyage, because he relied on Mr.
Taylor’s, (which he knew would he accurate and careful,) to amplify topics on which he
made hut brief notes. The Commodore has particularly directed this statement to he made
that justice may be done to Mr. Taylor for the services he rendered.
dusky depth of the waters, we saw, now and then, some large brown fish,
hovering stealthily about the entrances to the coral groves, as if lying in wait
for their bright little inhabitants. The water was so clear that the eye was
deceived as to its depth, and we seemed, now to rest on the branching tops
of some climbing forest, now to hang suspended as in mid-air, between the
crests of two opposing ones. Of all the wonders of the sea which have furnished
food for poetry and fable this was assuredly the most beautiful.”
“ We succeeded in obtaining a number of fine specimens of coral. The
tips of the branches were soft and glutinous, and the odor exhaling from them
was exceedingly offensive.”
On the 30th, it was rumored on board that some of the principal authori"
ties on shore intended on that day to visit the Susquehanna. Mr. Williams,
the interpreter, came on board and took up permanently his quarters in the
ship, and a boat was despatched for Dr. Bettelheim, to be present on the
occasion.
On the preceding day, Lieutenant Contee and Mr. Williams went on
shore to pay a visit to the then supposed governor of Napha, since ascertained
to be the mayor. They were received in a very polite and friendly manner;
though the mayor expressed his deep sense of mortification that his presents
had been refused. Lieutenant Contee explained that it was the uniform
practice of our government not to accept such presents for her ships, and
that (in consequence of our custom) the offering of them not unfrequently
subjected the commander and officers to mortification, as their refusal seemed
like an ungrateful return for offered courtesy; and that in this case no disrespect
was intended.
About one o’clock, a very ordinary native barge, containing the Lew
Chew dignitaries, came alongside. The marines were in uniform, and every
preparation had been made on board to show them respect and produce impressive
effect. One of the inferior officers came first up the gangway with
the card of his superior, which Mr. Williams, the interpreter, received and
read; the officer then returned, and the regent of the kingdom of Lew
Chew, a venerable old man, in a few minutes appeared, supported by two of
his officers. Captains Buchanan and Adams received him at the gangway,
and were saluted by the regent after the fashion of his country. His hands
were joined upon his breast, while his body and knees were bent very profoundly,
and his head was slightly turned away from the person he addressed
The prince, it was said, was a lad of eleven years old, and was represented
to be ill. The old gentleman acted as regent for him. Six or eight other
officers and some dozen subordinates followed the regent to the deck. A
salute of three guns was then fired, which so startled some of the Lew Chew
officers that they dropped upon their knees.
One of the most striking features in the visitors was their general imperturbable
gravity. I t was indeed plain that they had intense curiosity,