From the bare rocky ridges of N’safu there
is a perceptible decline to the Congo valley
and the country becomes, in appearance, more
sterile— a sparse population dwelling in a mere
skeleton village in the centre of bleakness.
Shingly rocks strewed the path and the waste]
and thin sere grass waved mournfully on level
and spine, on slope of ridge and crest of hill-1
in the hollows it was somewhat thicker; in the
bottoms it had a slight tinge of green.
We had gradually descended some five hundred
feet along declining spurs when we saw a scattered
string of hammocks appearing, and gleams
of startling whiteness , such as were given by
fine linen and twills.
A buzz of wonder ran along our column.
Proceeding a little farther, we stopped, and]
in a short time I was face to face with four]
white— ay, truly white men!
As I looked into their faces, I. blushed to]
find that I was wondering at their paleness.
Poor pagan Africans— Rwoma of Uzinja, and man-
eating tribes of the Livingstone! The whole
secret of their wonder and curiosity flashed!
upon me at once. What arrested the twanging!
bow and the deadly trigger of the cannibals?
What but the weird pallor of myself and Frank! i
In the same manner the sight of the pale faces
of the Embomma merchants gave me the slightest
suspicion of an involuntary shiver. The pale
colour, after so long gazing on rich black and
i richer bronze, had something of an unaccountable
ghastliness. I could not divest myself of the
feeling that they must be sick; yet, as I compare
their complexions to what I now view, I should
say they were olive, sunburnt, dark.
Yet there was something very self-possessed
about the carriage of these white men. It was
grand; a little self-pride mixed with cordiality.
I could not remember just then that I had witnessed
such bearing among any tribe throughout
Africa. They spoke well also; the words they
uttered hit the sense pat; without gesture, they
were perfectly intelligible. How strange! It was
quite delightful to observe the slight nods of
the head; the intelligent facial movements were
admirably expressive. They were completely
clothed, and neat also; I ought to say immaculately
clean. Jaunty straw hats, coloured neckties,
patent-leather boots, well-cut white clothes,
virtuously clean! I looked from them to my
people, and then I fear I felt almost like being
grateful to the Creator that I was not as black
as they, and that these finely dressed, well-
spoken whites claimed me as friend and kin.
Yet I did not dare to place myself upon an
equality with them as yet; the calm blue and
grey eyes rather awed me, and the immaculate
purity of their clothes dazzled me. I was content
to suppose myself a kind of connecting link
Q>