ed, and after joining the Livingstone it appeared to command
the left half to itself—it strangely refuses to amalgamate
with the Livingstone, and the divisional line between them is
plainly marked by a zigzag ripple, as though the two great
streams contended with one another for the mastery. Even
, the Aruwimi and the Lowwa united would not greatly exceed
this giant influent. Its strong current and black water contrast
very strongly with the whitey-brown Livingstone. On
the upper side of the confluence is situate Ibonga, but the
natives, though not openly hostile, replied to us with' the
peculiar war-cries ‘ Yaha-ha-ha!’
We continued our journey, though grievously hungry,
past Bwena and Inguba, doing our utmost to induce the staring
fishermen to communicate with us, without any success.
They became at once officiously busy with guns, and dangerously
active. We arrived at Ikengo, and as we were alihost
despairing, we proceeded to a small island opposite this
settlement and prepared to encamp. Soon a canoe with
seven men came dashing across, and we prepared our moneys
for exhibition. They unhesitatingly advanced, and ran their
canoe alongside us. We were rapturously joyful, and returned
them a most cordial welcome, as the act was a most
auspicious sign of confidence. We were liberal, and the
natives fearlessly accepted our presents, and from this giving
of gifts we proceeded to seal this incipient friendship with
our blood with all due ceremony.
“ After an hour’s stay with us they returned to communicate
with their countrymen, leaving one young fellow with
us, which was another act of grace. Soon from a village
below Ikengo two more canoes came up with two chiefs,
who were extremely insolent and provoking, though after
nearly two and a half years’ experience of African manners
we were not to be put out of temper because two drunken
savages chose to be overbearing.
“ It is strange, if we consider of what small things pride
is born. The European is proud of his pale colour, and
rFeb. 19. l877'j TEMPTED TO SELL MY NOTE-BOOK. 3 1
[ Ikengo. J
almost all native Africans appear to be proud because they
are black. Pride arises most naturally from a full stomach.
Esau, while hungry, forgot his birthright and heritage, because
of weakened vitals. I forgot mine because my stomach
had collapsed through emptiness. The arrogance of the two
chiefs of Ikengo was nourished by a sense of fulness. I
presume, were the contents of their stomachs analysed, we
should find them consist of undigested manioc, banana, with
a copious quantity of fluid. What virtues lie in these that
they should be proud? Their bodies were shrouded with a
grass cloth, greasy and black from wear. Their weapons
were flintlocks loaded with three inches of powder and three
of slugs. Yet they were insufferably rude!
“By-and-by they cooled down. We got them to sit and
talk, and we laughed together, and were apparently the best
of friends. Of all the things which struck their fancy, my
note-book, ¡which they called ‘tara-tara,’ or looking glass,
appeared to them to be the most wonderful. They believed
it possessed manifold virtues, and that.it came from above.
Would I, could I, sell it to them? It would have found a
ready sale. But as it contained records of disaster by flood
and fire, charts of rivers and creeks and islands, sketches
of men and manners, notes upon a thousand objects, I could
not part with .it even for a tusk of ivory.
“ They got angry and sulky again. It was like playing
with and coaxing spoiled children. We amused them in
various ways, and they finally became c o m p o s e d , and were
conquered by good-nature. With a generous scorn of return
gifts, they presented me with a gourdful of palm-wine. But
I begged so earnestly for food that they sent their canoes
back, and, while they sat down by my side, it devolved
upon me until their return to fascinate and charm them with
benignant gestures and broken talk. About 3 P.M. provisions
came in basketfuls of cassava tubers, bananas, and long
plantains, and the two chiefs made me rich by their liberality,
while the people began also to thaw from that stupor