walked or at most ambled his horse along, kept
smiling at his fellow as if he thought the occasion
a novel, if not an important, one. Hence we had a
leisurely afternoon drive, and before sunset reached
our destination. We were conducted to the house
where embassies are received, in which was a large
room carpeted, with niches in the wall, and a moderate
sized flower garden outside. We were told that
the Bek would receive us in the evening in the
Ak-Serai, a reminder that we were on historic ground.*
Accordingly, after sunset we .went to visit the Bek.
A t the entrance to the citadel soldiers were drawn up,
who presented arms, and we crossed the court where
Tamerlane’s feet must often have trod ; for there stood
the ruins of two piers, solidly built of large bricks, of the
famous Ak-Serai,. or white palace, in which he used
to repose after his campaigns. Their height is 140
* Shahr-i-sabz was widely known under its former name of Kesh
as the birthplace of the great Tamerlane. Separated from Bokhara
by the desert through which we were to travel, and from Samarkand
by the easily defensible mountain pass we had crossed, the position of
Shahr-i-sabz offered a good area in later days for the formation of an
independent government, and it early asserted itself. In the middle
of the last century, Rahim Bi, of Bokhara, subdued and held the province
for five years, but it revolted. From 1811 to 1836 it had a noted
Governor, Daniar Atalik, who successfully held out against Mir Haidar
and his son, Nasr Ullah. Nasr Ullah, however, captured the place
in 1856, but it revolted on his death, and his successor, the present
Emir, did not at first succeed in obtaining possession of the “ green
city.’ ’ Baba Bek was set up as ruler of Shahr, and Jura Kek of
Kitab, and with these Muzaffar was obliged to make peace, they
giving him precedence and yearly presents, but not allowing his
interference in the affairs of the province. These relations were broken
in 1866, on the battle of the Russians and Bokhariots at Irdjar, after
which certain rebels against the Emir were harboured in Shahr-i-sabz,
and the province again held out successfully against Muzaffar. The
final blow to its independence was given by the Russians in 1870,
when Kitab was taken by storm, and Shahr immediately surrendered;
whereupon the Russians gave up the province to the Emir .of Bokhara,
as a proof that they desired no further conquest of his territory.
■feet, and their pure Arabic style and ornamentation
■in glazed tiles of blue and white porcelain, inlaid in
■arabesques, and Persian and Arabic inscriptions, make
■them striking objects.* I was received in a spacious
■hall surrounded by mirrors about five feet high, and
■suspected that my reception had been deferred till
■after dark that I might be dazzled with the (supposed)
■magnificence.
I The Bek, who gave me his name as Astanakul,
mPavmanatchi, signifying that he was one grade below
■:he highest, sat near me at the table on which refresh-
Jpnent was served. There were also at the table
BChoja Abul Fais, and the Emir’s interpreter, who had
» e e n sent by his Majesty to amuse us during the
ftvening, and I suppose also to learn of us what they
mould. The Bek was much more communicative than
his sovereign, and asked if I had a father and brothers,
but made no such inquiry as to mother or sisters,
which, according to Bokhariot ideas, would have been
unpolite. He wished to know my profession, and
that of my father, and inquired for the health o f my
family. As he appeared to be so chatty, I took the
opportunity to ask him, and those at the table, many
questions, and to jot down the answers I received.
gave me information also concerning my route,
which was to be 60 miles to Karshi, 95 more to
Bokhara, and 101 further to Charjui. I asked him
to| arrange, if possible, that our journey might be
^»»edited, whereupon he summoned his scribe, who
^Bote a letter at' his mouth, which the Bek authentiis
the building of which the Spanish Clavijo tells us the
ui ders had been engaged upon, in 1405, for 20 years. He speaks of „,T° ..land hl£h entrance to the garden, beautifully adorned with
r S O ! 1 ®S’ ln blue and gold, qs well as handsome galleries and
^^BP on alls decorated with gold, azure, silver, and ivory.
B ol. :