-—the last woman’s face I was to see for some time,
for over the border they were all veiled. Our route
lay through suburban gardens, with fruit-trees hanging
on either hand over the walls, till we reached the
Ankhor aryk, where the steppe commences, with
hillocks here and there, but bare and lifeless, except
where covered with thorny bush. Our first day’s
journey was to be only as far as Kara-Tiube, a distance
of 21 miles. This was so arranged in order to give
us an easy start before entering on the country beyond,
which was said to be unusually difficult. We were
warned o f this at our last lunch at the Governor’s
house, and heard that some officers had even discussed
whether we should accomplish the mountain pass at
a l l ; but my national vanity was flattered to hear that
one of them said, “ Oh, yes, they will succeed, for they
are Englishmen; and what the English begin they
carry through.” It would not have done to break
down after this ; but as I was not in bed till half-past
one the night before,' and had risen at six in order to
pack, I was not sorry that the first day’s journey was
to be only an afternoon ride.
About halfway to Kara-Tiube the road crosses a deep
ravine with steep banks, and we had been told that
the remains of Tamerlane’s camp were still visible.
Neither Kolutch nor Yakoob had ever heard of them,
however; and though we did see certain mounds of
earth apparently artificial, I should think them more
likely to be connected with former irrigation works
than with Tamerlane. Fifteen miles, from Samarkand
we came to the Russian summer camp, where
the soldiers ■ were exercising, and singing as they
marched. One of the things that struck me Was the
ranks of sham men they had put up to shoot at for a
review on the day following. Yakoob informed us, in
¡proceeding, that the correct thing was for me to go last,
land the djiguitt a little distance on ahead ; but, however
correct, this had one disadvantage for me, namely, that
I caught all the dust kicked up by those preceding me,
and against this I soon revolted. Again, it is considered
by the Asiatics more dignified for a great
personage to let his horse walk or amble than to
galop. Yakoob said my stallion had been doing no
¡work of late, and, therefore, begged I would not ride
[too fast the first day ; but my steed was like to a fed
¡horse in the morning, neighing wherever he went, and
Impatient of restraint; so I let him go. Mr. Sevier’ s
¡horse took the cue from mine, and we thus frequently
le ft Yakoob and Kolutch for a while behind. We had
la fair wheel-road to within 5 miles of our destination,
-Tut on reaching the foot of the mountains it became
little more than a path, though still practicable for
carriages. We mounted the first range of hills, and
had from the summit a fine view of the valley beyond,
and of the plains we had left behind. Notice of our
coming had been sent forward to the chief of the
volost, who, as we approached Kara-Tiube, came out
to meet us, and conducted us to the courtyard of a
mosque, where a tent was put up for our use. We
had left Samarkand at 2.15, and completed our 21 miles
In 3J hours.
I Kara-Tiube lies in a hollow among the lower hills of
ithe Samarkand range, and under native rule possessed
a frontier fortress. The Emir made it a centre of
jpperations during his war with the invading Russians.
■The fortifications were destroyed by General Abramoff,
In 1868. I could not help thinking what a change had
¡pome over the scene in a dozen years, for I suppose