that, previous to the advent of the Russians, the Mussulmans
from choice would hardly have tolerated the
presence of an “ infidel ” in their midst; whereas now
they were entertaining us in the courts of their mosque.*
The tent was nicely carpeted under foot with handsome
bands around, though the roof and sides were somewhat
the worse for wear— one rent, in fact, being opened
to admit light. Yakoob said that he would close it
when we were going to sleep. Till then it would help
to air the tent, he said, utterly oblivious that there was
too much air for my liking already. Here we ate our
first meal prepared by the natives, beginning with
sweetmeats, and going on through soup, native bread,
grapes, and pilau, made of meat and rice.
As we intended to start early next morning, we soon
got ready after dinner for bed. I set my alarum, and
placed my revolver under the pillow. But, though
tired, it was not so easy for me to sleep. Just outside
the djiguitts were talking, and sending round their
gurgling kalian, or water-pipe, the horses were restless,
sundry dogs barking and whining, as well as
stallions fighting. My first sleep was disturbed by a
rattling of plates, due, it soon appeared, to an intruding
tom-cat. I quickly drove him out, and, being thus on
my feet, looked outside the tent. There lay Yakoob
and the djiguitts asleep and covered, but in the open
air, as an ordinary thing, and, all around being quiet, I
turned in again, to be disturbed within an hour by
another cat getting on the table, knocking over a
candlestick, qnd stopping my alarum. O f course, I
blessed every member of the feline race, gave chase
* We were not again lodged in the courtyard of a religious building,
but it served to recall the Israelites in captivity, who “ made themselves
booths, every one upon the roof of his house, and in their courts, and
in the courts of the house of God ” (Neh. viii. 16).
again, and re-set my alarum, of which I then heard no
more’ till it awoke me early next morning, not so stiff
ias I expected to be, and ready to set things astir.
Our second day’s journey was to Kitab, a distance
o f 22 miles over the Takhta-Karacha Pass, for which
we set out at half-past seven o’clock.. T he road
; threads the defile of Katta-Sai, in which flows a
turbulent little mountain stream of the same name.
Following the windings of this, and occasionally cross-
ling it, we saw from the road a tiller of the soil, with a
[yoke of oxen and a plough, that from its primitive
[form might have served for Elisha the son of Shaphat.*
»Somewhat further on we saw a good illustration of the
[threshing-floor of Oman the Jebusite. T h e grain,
| instead of being thrashed, is trodden out by oxen or
I horses, on a space specially prepared, termed khirman.
1 In this case two oxen only were employed, and their
■ treading power was economized more ingeniously than
■ pleasantly, I should imagine, to one at least of the pair.
■ One ox was fastened to the off end of a pole, that worked I on a pivot in the centre of the floor, a boy holding on to
I his tail as to a rudder, and thus providing for the circum-
[ ference of the floor, whilst the second ox, with his hinder
[parts in the centre and his head tied to his fellow, by
means of a crab-like motion trod the central area.j"
* The saban, or two-pronged plough of Central Asia, is a sharpened
[ block of wood, tipped, it may be, with an iron point, and fastened at a
I sharp angle to a long pole. On the front of this pole is laid a beam,
I or yoke, about-7 feet long. Cords are let into this at either end, and
the oxen are made fast. The ploughman hplds on to a fork, let into
[ the pointed beam, and the implement turns up about 7 inches of earth.
' In the case I am describing it appeared to be easily guided by one
hand through a light soil. Harrowing is effected by means of a comb
made of a beam, in which are fastened long wooden teeth. It is drawn
! by a pair of oxen. In order that the harrow may go deep into the soil,
two or three men stand on it, whilst the animals draw it over the field,
t The oxen were not muzzled (Deut. xxv. 4), and the abundance of