all over, but without a stick of furniture, except two
roughly-made deal chairs with crimson seats. The
Emir was perched on one, and, after giving me a feeble
shake of the hand, he motioned me to the other. I
had seen his portrait at Tashkend, photographed, I
think, in ’ 1874, and from which, I presume, the
engravings have been made; but as I had heard his
Majesty spoken of as an old man, I expected to find
him grey, whereas his hair was black, and, though
apparently in debilitated health, he looked, thanks
perhaps to cosmetics which he is said to use freely,
less than 58, which I heard was his age.
When I had seated myself, Mr. Sevier and Yakoob
stood in front, a few courtiers being behind. The
Emir began by saying he had heard that I came from
fa r ; .he was glad that I had come, and hoped that I
had recovered from fatigue.
I thanked him, and said that the Russians had given
me permission to go to Petro-Alexandrovsk ; would
he be so kind as to direct that my tarantass should be
taken to Charjui, and then floated down the Oxus ?
“ Yes.” ,
I then said, “ I am an English mullah, and can read
Hebrew and Greek. I should very much like to be
allowed to see what ancient manuscripts there may be
in your Majesty's library.”
Answer : “ He had heard that I was interested in
antiquities. I might, therefore, search for them where
I pleased, and have any I could find ; and his men
would help me.”
Thus far, all promised well, and I went on to say
that I had seen prisons and hospitals in many parts of
the world, especially in Siberia, and that I should like to
to be allowed to see those of his Majesty’s dominions.
Here I suppose I “ put my foot in it,” for I received
no answer. In asking Russians the kind of presents
that would be suitable for the Emir, I had been
SKID MU ZAF FAR -ED-DIN, EMIR OF BOKHARA.
especially advised to offer articles that would be new
■ to him. I was not too well supplied with such things, for
I was not sure, on leaving England, that I should get
into Bokhara, nor had I previously travelled in coun