pampas grass and reeds overtopping our heads, waded
some narrow streams, and then came to the famous
Oxus.
So primitive in appearance was the boat to take us
across, and so high in stern and prow, that one was
tempted to think it a relic of the tribes that were
crushed by the great commander. The oars were
about the thickness of scaffold poles, with blades
roped on, 10 inches wide by 30 long. Our horses
were shipped, and we were rowed across to the
opposite bank, where one Mama-sherif, an official
called the Toksaba, came to meet us from Charjui.
W e were taken into a house in the midst of a garden,
which in summer doubtless would have been pleasant
enough, but crossing the river had not warmed us,
and I was sufficiently chilled when they brought us a
meal to ask whether they could give us also a fire.
T h e y assured us they would do all they could for the
comfort of their guests, and shortly brought us “ a fire
of coals.” It was a large brazier or octagonal pan,
about 4 inches deep and 2 feet in diameter, filled with
glowing charcoal. There was no fireplace in the
room, and the floor was nicely carpeted all over, but
the brazier was stood in a tray and placed beside us.
I cannot pretend there was much heat to be got from
it, but we could not stay long, since there remained
to be accomplished what they told us was 3 miles,
though Burnes calls it six, to the town of Charjui, the
question being, I suppose, whether it was half a tash
or a whole one.
On setting out they asked that we would not hurry,
for it was customary for guests to proceed sedately,
to which I rather demurred, saying that I wished to
ride myself warm. W e passed through fields to within
about a mile of the town, where we gained the first
view of its lofty fortress, whose outline seen from a
distance was more picturesque than that of any building
I had yet seen in the khanate. I asked the Toksaba
the population of the town, and received another illustration
of native ignorance when dealing with high
numbers. He stated it at 100,000, and the population
of the bekship at a million ! after which he added that
the place was only a fortress, with a thousand soldiers
to keep the neighbouring Turkomans in order. Burnes
gives the population as not exceeding 5,000 ; the
Russians give the town 6,000 “ yards,” or domiciles.
Thus we had arrived at Charjui, a distance, according
to my reckoning, from Bokhara of 80 miles, but
Kostenko calls it 100, from information given by the
local staff, though his stations do not appear to be the
same as mine. In any case, I suspect the distance is not
measured, but taken from the statements of the natives,
whose reckoning is by the tash, sang, or fa r sang, each
of which is 12,000 paces, i.e., about 8 versts Russian,
or rather more than 5 miles English.* W e found
the town pleasantly situated ; the fort occupying a
knoll, and commanding a view of the whole neighbourhood.
Our house stood by itself, near a stream, and,
though not very sumptuous, they appeared to be doing
* The stations, with distances between in versts, as given by Kostenko
and myself, are as follows
K o s t e n k o .
Bokhara—
Shahr-Islam .
Kara-Kul
Ardan .
Denghiz
Passage of Amu
Chaqui .
VOL. II.
Bokhara—
24 Yakatut.
32 Kara-Kul
36 Daulet-bi
28 Betik
24 The Amu
8 . Chaqui .
152
L a n s d e l l .
28
32
24
24
12