up to “ eat what you please, but pocket none,” in
Bokhara it is expected that you eat what you can,
and pocket the rest. All was to be mine, and I found
that Yakoob, the djiguitts, and attendants were ready
to accept the remainder as a perquisite, and stow away
the same in their bags.
We were left to partake of refreshment alone,,and
when the envoys subsequently entered, I showed to
him who appeared to be master of the ceremonies the
letter I had received from General Chernaieff, whereupon
he spoke to me about seeing the Emir on the
following day. For the information of the Emir our
names had to be entered in a book, the hour we arrived,
and when we departed, with particulars of our visit.
T hey asked how soon we meant to start for Kitab,
whereupon observing that it was 1,45 p.m., I replied,
“ In 15 minutes” ; but this was contrary to their notions,
and they wished to put down 3.0 as the hour of our
departure, “ so that it might look to the Emir as if we
had been well entertained.” Not that they cared, however,
that we should wait, and our houses were accordingly
made ready.
It was five miles further to Kitab, along a carriageable
road, through an inhabited district. On starting,
our escort increased, and we were preceded by a score
or so of horsemen, who smothered us with dust. I
begged them, therefore, to go on far ahead. This
dispersed the crowd, and we rode along to Urus (or
Russian) Kishlak, and beyond we forded the River
Kashka. Soon afterwards we approached the mud
wall, 53 miles long, which once surrounded Shahr-i-
sabz, and included, besides Kitab and Shahr, several
villages, with fields and gardens. These entirely
occupied the whole space within the wall. In winter
a large part of the neighbouring country is under
water, and even in the dry season unhealthy swamps
abound. We had to approach the citadel of Kitab by
a narrow street, with water and mud up to the horses’
knees, the Colonel, in cloth of gold, having motioned
me to his side to enter the town with something like
state. A s we passed along, the people rose and saluted
the Colonel with a “ Salaam aleikumS or “ Peace be
with you,” but not bowing so servilely as at Khokand.
Other mounted officials now came to present themselves,
and formed a cavalcade that brought us at last
to what was to be our lodging. I had read that it was
a point of Bokhariot etiquette as to how near one
should ride up to a palace or great house before dismounting.
My retinue, I observed, alighted outside
the street gates, but we were conducted on horseback
“ right in” the courtyard, and then, having dismounted,
were shown into our room.