'” 5. this place from the India fhips, The terms are here nearly
the fame as at the Cape; but the produce of fo fmall an
ifland as St. Helena, will not allow of that provifion of good
cheer, for which the Dutch colony is famous over all the
world. We were entertained by Mr. Mafon, a very worthy
old man, to whom this fettlement owes fome of its bell
and moil amiable inhabitants. Having taken our lodgings,
we went to dine with the governor; and the fpirit with
■ which the .converfation was carried on, gave a convincing
■ proof, that the means of acquiring ufeful knowledge, from
a ftore of good books, were by no means negledled among
■ the inhabitants. Dr. Hawkefworth’s account of captain
■ Cook’s fird voyage round the world, in the Endeavour, had
reached this ifland fome time before ; it had been eagerly pe-
rufed, and feveral articles, relative to this fettlement, were
now taken notice of with great good humour and pleafant
raillery. The total want of wheelbarrows, and the ill-
treatment of the flaves, which are fpoken of in that account*’
were reckoned particularly injurious, and captain
Cook was called upon to defend himfelf. Mrs. Skottow.e,
* See Hawkefworth’ s Compilation, vol. II'I. p. 797, There are many wheel-
Narrows and feveral carts on .the ifland, fome of which feemed to be flutlioufly
placed before captain Cook’s lodgings every day. T h e treatment o f flaves is alfo
mifreprefented3 they have not that pernicious influence on-the education o f the in -
’habitants, which is but too frequent at the Cape, an.d which there fans the fire
„caufed by the heat o f the climate.
ihe
the.fprightlied lady on the ifland, difplayed to advantage Bfc,
her witty and fatirical talents, from which there was no
other efcape left,'than to lay the blame on the abfent phi-
lofophers whofe papers had been confulted.
Early the next morning, the Hon. Mr. Stuart, captain
Cook, and myfelf, took an airing on the hills. We rode
up that which lies to the weftward, and is named the Ladder
hill. The road, which has been lately made, afcends in
zigzag along its fteep fides, and is very eafy of afcent. Its
breadth is nine feet, being enclofed on the declivity by a
wall about three feet high, made of the fame ftone of
■ which the whole mountain confifts. This is nothing but a
heap of lava, crumbling and decaying into a brown earth
in fome parts, whild in others it forms huge mafles of
black cavernous flags, which, in a few inftances, feemed to
be fomewhat vitreous. Many rocks of this kind hang over
the road, and fometimes roll down to the terror and great
rifk of the inhabitants, being frequently detached by goats,
which came to brouze there; but the foldiers of the gar-
rifon have received orders to flioot thofe animals as often
as they appear on thefe eminences; and no other command
is obeyed with greater alacrity, becaufe they are generally
permitted to feaft upon the goat which they have killed.
We proceeded into the country along the fummn of this
hill, about half a mile, when all at once appeared one of
the fined profpefts we had ever feen. It confided of feveral
Vol. II. 4 C fl°Ping