
 
        
         
		steamer.  Then,  how comparatively sweet was  everything  
 on board  no paint,  no  tar,  no  new rope,  (vilest of  smells  
 to the qualmish !)  no grease,  or oil,  or varnish ;  but instead  
 of  these,  bamboo  and  rattan,  and  coir  rope  and  palm  
 thatch;  pure  vegetable  fibres,  which  smell  pleasantly  if  
 they  smell  at  all,  and  recall  quiet  scenes  in  the  green  
 and  shady  forest. 
 Our  ship  had  two  masts,  if masts  they can  be  called,  
 which were  great  moveable  triangles.  If  in  an  ordinary  
 ship  you  replace  the  shrouds  and  backstay  by  strong  
 timbers,  and  take  away the  mast  altogether,  you  have  the  
 arrangement  adopted on  board  a  prau.  Above  my cabin,  
 and  resting  on  cross-beams  attached  to the  masts, was  a  
 wilderness  of  yards  and  spars,  mostly formed  of  bamboo.  
 The  mainyard,  an  immense  affair  nearly  a  hundred  feet  
 long,  was  formed  of  many  pieces  of  wood  and  bamboo  
 bound together with rattans in an ingenious manner.  The  
 sail carried by this was  of  an  oblong  shape, and was hung  
 out of  the  centre,  so  that when  the  short  end was Jiauled  
 down  on  deck  the  long  end  mounted  high  in  the  air,  
 making  up  for  the  lowness  of  the  mast  itself.  The  fore-  
 sad was of  the same  shape, but  smaller.  Both  these were  
 of matting, and, with two jibs and a fore  and  aft  sail astern  
 of  cotton  canvas, completed our rig. 
 The  crew  consisted  of  about  thirty  men,  natives  of  
 Macassar and the adjacent coasts  and  islands.  They were 
 mostly young,  and were  short,  broad-faced, good-humoured  
 looking fellows.  Their dress  consisted  generally of  a  pair  
 of  trousers  only, when at work, and  a handkerchief twisted  
 round the head, to which  in the evening  they would  add a  
 thin cotton jacket.  Four of the elder men were  “jurumudis,”  
 or steersmen, who had to  squat (two at a time)  in the little  
 steerage before described, changing every  six hours.  Then  
 there was  an old man,  the  “ juragan,”  or  captain, but who  
 was really what we should call the  first mate;  he occupied  
 the  other  half  of  the  little  house  on  deck.  There  were  
 about  ten  respectable men,  Chinese  or  Bugis,  whom  our  
 owner  used  to  call  “ his  own  people.”  He  treated  them  
 very well,  shared  his  meals with  them, and  spoke to  them  
 always  with  perfect  politeness;  yet  they  were  most  of  
 them  a  kind  of  slave  debtors,  bound  over  by the  police  
 magistrate  to work  for  him  at  mere  nominal wages  for  a  
 term  of  years  till  their  debts were  liquidated.  This  is  a  
 Dutch  institution  in  this  part  of  the world,  and  seems  to  
 work  well.  It  is  a  great  boon  to  traders,  who  can  do  
 nothing in these thinly-populated  regions without  trusting  
 goods to agents  and petty dealers, who  frequently squander  
 them  away  in  gambling  and  debauchery.  The  lower  
 classes  are  almost  all  in  a  chronic  state  of  debt.  The  
 merchant  trusts  them  again  and  again,  till  the amount  is  
 something serious, when  he  brings  them  to court  and  has  
 their  services  allotted  to  him  for  its  liquidation.  The 
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