7 0 B A T C H I 4 N,; [ c h a p . x x iv .
trader going to buy goods. We had to sleep all together
in the cabin, packed pretty close; but they very civilly
allowed me plenty of room for my mattrass, and we
got on very well together. There was a little cookhouse
in the bows, where we could boil our rice and
make our coffee, every one of course bringing his own
provisions, and arranging his meal-times as he found
most convenient. The passage would have been agreeable
enough but for the dreadful “ tom-toms,” or wooden
drums, which are beaten incessantly while the men
are rowing. Two men were engaged constantly at them,
making a fearful din the whole voyage. The rowers are
men sent by the Sultan of Ternate. They get about threepence
a day, and find their own provisions. Each man
had a. strong wooden “ betel” box, on which he generally
sat, a sleeping-mat, and a change of| clothes —ro.T w-ing
naked, with only a sarong or a waist-cloth. They sleep in
their places, covered with their mat, which keeps out the
rain pretty well. They chew betel or smoke cigarettes
incessantly; eat dry sago and a little salt fish; seldom
sing while rowing, except when excited and wanting to
reach a stopping-place, and do not talk a great deal.
They are mostly Malays, with a sprinkling of Alfuros from
Gilolo, and Papuans from Guebe or Waigiou.
One afternoon we stayed at Makian ; many of the men
went on shore, and a great deal of plantains, bananas, and
Lap. xxiv.] UNPLEASANT BEDFELLOW. 71
[other fruits were brought on board. We then went on a
little way, and in the evening anchored again. When
[going to bed for the night, I put out my candle, there
Ibeing still a glimmering lamp burning, and, missing my
[handkerchief, thought I saw it on a box which formed one
[side of my bed, and put out my hand to take it. I quickly
[drew back on feeling something cool and very smooth,
[which moved as I touched it. “ Bring the light, quick,” I
[cried ; “ here’s a snake.” And there he was, sure enough,
nicely coiled up, with his head just raised to inquire who
had disturbed him. It was now necessary to catch or kill
him neatly, or he would escape among the piles of miscellaneous
luggage, and we should hardly sleep comfortably.
One of the ex-convicts volunteered to catch him with his
hand wrapped up in a cloth, but from the way he went
about it I saw he was nervous and would let the thing: go, O O '
so I would not allow him to make the attempt. I then got
a chopping-knife, and carefully moving my insect nets,
which hung just over the snake and prevented me getting
a free blow, I cut him quietly across the back, holding
him down while my boy with another knife crushed his
head. On examination, I found he had large poison
fangs, and it is a wonder he did . not bite me when I
first touched him.
Thinking it very unlikely that two snakes had got on
board at the same time, I turned in and went to sleep;