feet1 From this high ground the principal rivers, valleys,
and mountains of Western Asia diverge, in different directions,
towards the four seas at the extremities of the territory; and
to the shores of these seas it is intended now to trace the
different mountain-chains from one common root. Ararat,
the centre of most of these branches, elevates its snow-clad
summits in a district nearly equidistant from the Black and
Caspian Seas ; the city of Erivan being in the plain on the
northern, whilst Bayazid and its castle occupy spurs from a
range- of mountains on the southern side. The plain, of about
10 miles in width, which separates the latter from the base
of that celebrated mountain, is covered with lava; and the
formation of the mass itself indicates the presence of that
volcanic agency which caused the recent catastrophe.8
Two vast conical peaks, which rise far above all others in
this part of the country, constitute the great centre of the
“ mountains of Ararat.” The lower one is steeper and more
pointed than the higher, from which it is separated by a sloping
plain on the north-western side; the direct distance between
their summits being about seven miles. The ascent of the
great mountain appears to be easier than that of its younger
brother, especially on the western side ;3 and the summit of it
has, in fact, been gained by the enterprising Dr. Parrott.4
The difficulties of the journey are, however, considerable, and
these have given rise to the local < and expressive name which
is borne by the mountain itself.5 Owing to the height of the
spectator, and the great elevation^of the neighbouring parts
of the chain, the highest summit of Western Asia appears
1 The bridge over the Aras is 5478 feet above the sea.—See Mr. Brant’s
Journey: p. 431, Vol. X. Part III. of the Royal Geographical Journal.
* The great earthquake on the 20th of June, 1840, old style, according to
the official account drawn up by Major Vosboinikof, of the Imperial Russian
Engineers.
“ There are, no doubt, exceptions; but, as far as my observations have
been carried, the western sides of mountains are less abrupt than the eastern.
* This gentleman gives 16,000 feet (French) for the height of Ararat; that
of the second peak being 12,300, as ascertained by Messrs. Schiemann and
Keyn.—Nouvelles Annales des Voyages, 1830, Tome III., p. 128.
5 Aghri Tdgh, or Painful Mount.—Rev. G. C. Renouard, Foreign Secretary
of the Geographical Society.
only like a mountain of the second or third class, when seen
from the country about Bayazid; but when viewed from a
greater distance, the effect is truly majestic. From Diyádín,
for instance, this monarch of mountains towers far above the
rest of the chain, to which it seems not to belong; although
it is, in reality, the culminating point of the whole system.
The first of the numerous chains which descend from thence
is the elevated range forming the back-bone of the Assyrian
mountains, which, with its principal ramifications, derives
importance from the circumstance of its valleys containing a
large portion of the inhabitants of the whole country. This
range, or the main ridge of Kurdistan, has mount Ararat at
the northern extremity; from the slopes of which it runs
S.S.E., between lakes Van and Urumiyah, and along the
western side of Azerbayán, to the extremity of the province,
where it takes a southerly direction along Ardelan, and extends
as far as 35° north latitude. It is composed of red
sandstone, dialidge, and basalt, terminating in needle points
at a considerable elevation;1 while its irregular, rocky sides
are partially wooded, and frequently form basins, or amphitheatres.
Numerous arms diverge eastward and westward
from this root; and between the eastern branches, which are
those already mentioned as traversing Azerbayán, the waters
collected by the basins of the Araxes, Kizil Úzen, &c., are
conveyed into the Caspian Sea; whilst the others inclose the
valleys along the different tributaries of the Halys, Euphrates,
and Tigris. The contour of these western branches takes the
form of an acute triangle, having the apex westward of the
Euphrates, and the crests of the Kurdistan or Armenian
mountains for its base; the sides being formed by portions
of the ranges of the Anti-Taurus and Taurus. Beginning at
the northern extremity of the space thus formed, it will he
found that two parallel chains run westward from the foot
of Ararat, at Báyazid, to Diyádín. Near this place, the
northern branch takes a westerly direction along the right
bank of the Murád sú, as far as Kará Kilísá, where it curves
northward, by Deli Bábá, to the river Aras, from whose hanks
1 MS. Journal of Mr. A. A, Staunton, R.A., on his return from the Expedition.
F 2