There exist in the northern part of Algeria some
hot springs whose medicinal waters have for centuries
been used by the natives as a cure for skin-
diseases and rheumatism. These springs, which
gush from the ground at almost boiling-point, are
supposed by the Arabs to be heated by subterranean
furnaces.
According to the legend of the place, Solomon,
as a punishment, compelled certain genii, who had
been guilty of some crime, to stoke these furnaces
and attend to the springs; and in order that they
might not be able to see, hear, or repeat anything
that went on at the baths—a very wise precaution
if they were to be frequented by the Arabs—he
deprived them at the same time of sight, hearing,
and the power of speech.
In consequence of these infirmities their fellow-
genii have never been able to acquaint them with
the death of their taskmaster. Being, therefore,
under the impression that he is still alive, and fearing
that should they cease for one instant from their
labours they would be visited with a still severer
punishment, they continue the toil imposed upon
them of stoking the fires which heat the springs.
At M’raier, the half-way house between Biskra
and Tougourt, we halted for a day to give our rather
overloaded camel a rest.
The day which we passed there was ushered in
by a sand-storm. About noon, however, the wind
dropped, and I took the opportunity to go out into
the oasis to take a few photographs.
By the side of the village was a large open space,
used by the inhabitants alternately as market, village-
green, parliament-house, and ball-room. At the
moment of our arrival we found that it was being
utilised in the last capacity.
A marriage-dance was in progress. All the unmarried
girls of the village, with a few of their
mothers and married sisters looking on so as to
allay the scruples of the not very exacting female
who takes the place of Mrs. Grundy in the desert,
were present in the square.
They had come out in their very best finery, and
when a Bouara girl puts on her best frock she
makes herself very fine indeed. For the nonce they
had discarded their usual dark-blue clothing and had
dressed themselves in spots and stripes of all the
colours of the rainbow. Silver or brass chaplets
encircled their brows, silver bracelets covered their
arms, and anklets of the same metal clinked on their
feet with every step they took; many of them had
their breasts almost covered with beautifully pierced
and embossed boxes of silver containing charms or
some sickly scented perfume.
With their arms laced together they danced in
short, shuffling steps, swaying their bodies in time
to the music. While dancing, each girl held with
her henna-stained fingers a corner of the cloth
which covered her head across her face so as to act
as a kind of veil, coquettishly lowering it occasionally
so as to allow a momentary glimpse of her ebony
loveliness. The band of four performers which discoursed
the barbaric music to which the women
danced joined occasionally in the performance and