Visitors at that time of night were clearly not
expected. The inmates of the borj had retired to
sleep, and it was some time before we could arouse
them.
At length, after shouting and kicking at the door
for some time with no effect, El Ayed, becoming
exasperated, took the law into his own hands, and
hammered on the gate with a huge stone which lay
beside it, threatening to break it down, and making
a din sufficient to arouse the Seven Sleepers from
their cave.
This had the desired effect, for presently a door
opened in the interior of the building, and a very
querulous voice demanded what we wanted, and
declared that he was not going to admit anyone at
that time of night. He did not know who we were;
we might be robbers, and, in any case, it was
contrary to the regulations.
Aissa, who had somewhat recovered during his
ride, at once flew into a passion, called the man
every name that he could think of, and concluded
by declaring that it was a Roumi (European) who
demanded admission, and promised the guardian
that if the gate was not opened at once he should
be reported to the authorities. This threat removed
the guardian’s scruples. We were at once admitted.
Aissa, having abused the guardian into a becoming
humility, demanded the best room for my
accommodation.
The borj keeper,, however, who was in a very
sulky temper owing to his having been aroused from
his sleep, objected to giving me this, and wanted to
give me a small and very dirty one instead. But
Aissa was firm, and as my other Arabs backed him
up, being anxious to get the matter settled as soon
as possible so that they could get to sleep, he finally
carried his point, and the door was opened.
The reason of the guardian’s objection to my
using this room was at once apparent. It contained
a bed, and in the bed, contrary to all the rules and
regulations of the place, was a nigger.
Even the noise which we had made at the gate
had failed to arouse him, and he lay still fast asleep
and snoring loudly.
El Ayed seized him by the shoulder and shook
him vigorously, but only succeeded in extorting a
grunt of disapproval. As these gentle means failed
to have any effect he took El Haj’s kasrullah from
him, and dealt the recumbent form, with no light
hand, a blow on his back which brought him with
a yell to his feet. He then kicked him promptly
through the doorway. The bed was pushed into
one corner of the room, and my own erected in its
place. Almost before my head was on the pillow I
was fast asleep.
Soon after our start on the next morning we met
a couple of wild-looking Arabs, both armed to the
teeth, who told us that they came from Tripoli,
and were travelling hot-foot on the track of some
Shaambahs, who had stolen thirty of their camels.
They asked us if we had met them on the road, and
on our answering in the negative, hurried off again
at a long tireless trot in pursuit.
Shortly before reaching El Wad, Aissa pointed