
 
        
         
		memento of  their  visit.  Those  marauding  sons  of  
 the Sahara, mounted upon their meharis, or trotting  
 camels, had come up from the  great  desert for some  
 four  hundred  miles  to  seek  what  they  could  take  
 from their Arab neighbours. 
 According  to  their  usual  custom, they  attacked  
 the camp just before the dawn.  The Arabs, knowing  
 that they could expect no quarter, fought desperately  
 and  resisted  to  the  last  man.  The fight continued  
 fiercely all day, and  the  Tawareks,  though they lost  
 many  of  their  number,  were  not  able to enter into  
 undisputed  possession  of  the  camp  until  nearly  
 sunset. 
 Over the grave  of  each  of  the men  of  the Arab  
 party was set up a pillar of mud and stones.  In the  
 upper portion of the column which marked the grave  
 of  the chief was a small niche,  in  which was placed  
 a  saucer  for  burning  incense.  Similar  saucers  or  
 small  lamps  lay  on  each  of  the  other  graves.  
 Belatives of the deceased persons occasionally visited  
 the cemetery from their camps in other parts  of  the  
 desert  to  offer up incense or to burn a little  scented  
 oil in one of  the lamps  on  the  occasion of the feast  
 at  the  end  of  Eamadan—the  Ayed-es-seghir,  or  
 ‘ little feast,’ as it is called. 
 As  we  approached  this  little  graveyard  Aissa  
 accosted  its  defunct  inhabitants  with  a  jaunty  
 ‘ Es-salamou a'likmm ’—‘ Peace  be with you ’—and  
 proceeded in the most  cheerful  voice  imaginable to  
 wish them good luck in their new abode. 
 This  I  found  was  a  form  which  he  invariably  
 went  through  on  nearing  a  grave,  and  frequently, 
 when  apparently  nothing  of  the  sort was  in  sight,  
 he  would  strike  up  his  jaunty  greeting,  and  in  
 explanation  point  out  a  little  cairn  of  loose  stones  
 m ark in g  the spot where  some  luckless traveller had  
 been found with his  throat  cut  by the roadside and  
 buried where he lay by some passing good Samaritan. 
 The Tawareks have a superstition that the whole  
 of the earth in the  Sahara, below the  surface  of  the  
 ground,  is  ruled  over  by  a  supernatural  class  of  
 beings known as Ahl-et-Trab.  The delight of these  
 creatures  is  to  play  mischievous  pranks  upon  the  
 desert inhabitants.  They are  said  to  catch  hold of  
 a camel’s feet as they sink into the  soft  sand and to  
 pull  them  with  every  step  to  make  the  travelling  
 heavier.  They bite off the roots of the desert plants  
 so as to kill them and reduce the amount of grazing,  
 and  when  they  see  an  unusually  thirsty  traveller  
 approaching  a  well  they  drink  up  all  the  water  
 which  it  contains  so  that  upon  his  arrival he may  
 find it empty. 
 But they do  not  always  confine their operations  
 to such comparatively innocent underground pranks,  
 for they occasionally come up from below the surface  
 of  the  soil,  and  to  attain  their  ends  assume  some  
 bodily shape. 
 A  story goes  that  two  Arab  brothers, who were  
 extremely  attached  to  each  other,  were  travelling  
 together  in  the  desert.  At  the  end  of  a  day’s  
 journey  they killed  a  sheep for  their  evening  meal.  
 They then cast about for some means of cooking it. 
 The  spot  where  they  had  halted  for  the  night  
 was  a  small  areg,  or  sand-dune  district,  absolutely