on h e r head, fattens it to th e faid b u tto n , o r u n d e r it, w ith a
firin g .
T h e w om e n w e a r likewife o n a jo u rn e y , o r w h e n th e y are
w a tc h in g th e ir re in -d e e r by n ig h t, a covering w h ic h confifts o f
tw o p a rts ; th e firft o f w h ic h is o f o n e piece, a n d protedls th e
head, neck, an d ihoulders, inclofing lik ewife th e c h in : it is made
o f red , blu e, o r g re en kerfey, b o u n d a t b o ttom w ith a ftfip e o f
c lo th o f a d ifferent co lo u r ; over th is , to wrap u p th e ir heads more
completely, th e y p u t a h ig h cap, fhaped like a c row n , broader on
th e to p , a n d leffening tow a rd s th e o p en in g w ith o u t, a n d on th e
le ft fide it h a s a b a n d o f a d ifferent coloured c lo th , o r lome tim e s
m fte ad o f th is a ftrap co v ered w ith tinfel, h a v in g a ball o f filver
g ilt fixed to th e end.
T h e tu n ic k and u p p e r g a rm e n t w o rn b y th e w om e n , differ little
from th o fe o f th e m en : th e tu n ic k is m ad e o f ih eep ’s ik in , w ith
th e woolly p a rt tu rn e d inwa rd s, a n d varies from th a t o f th e m e n
o n ly in being g a th e red in plaits b e h in d an d before, b u t longer
a n d clofer on th e breaft, a n d c om in g d ow n a little lowe r th a n
th e hips, whereas th o fe o f th e m e n defcend below th e knees. T h is
tu n ic k , as th a t o f th e m en , ferves in fte ad o f a lin en fh ift. T h e
u p p e r o r o u te r g a rm e n t is m ad e o f kerfey, an d is d iftin g u ilh ed
from th a t w o rn by th e m en in thefe few p a rticu la rs only : th e
w om a n s extends below th e knees, th e m a n ’s comes n o lower th a n
th e th ig h ; th e la tte r has a h ig h f tif f collar, th e fo rm er has no
co lla r a t all. T h e w om a n ’s fheep Ik in tu n ic k , however, has a h ig h
lliffen ed collar w h ic h covers th e n e ck an d ears, an d appears above
th e
th e o u te r g a rm e n t o f c lo th , w h ic h , as has j u f t been m en tio n ed , is
w ith o u t any collar. T h e w om e n have a n o th e r k in d o f u p p e r g a rm
e n t, called barve, m ad e o f kerfey o r coarfe c lo th , b u t differen t
from th e o th e r already fp o k en of, as th is comes n o low e r th a n th e
m id d le , is g a th e red ro u n d , a n d lies in folds ab o u t th e body. T h e
u p p e r co a t o f re in -d e e r’s ik in , o r its faw n , re iembles th a t o f th e
m e n in every refpedl, ex cep t t h a t th o fe w h ic h th e m e n w e a r
com e d ow n to th e heels, whereas th e w om e n ’s fcarcely re ach low e r
th a n th e knees.
T h e gloves o f th e L a p la n d w om e n are alike in fhape to thofe
o f th e m e n ; fome o f th em are w h ite , m ad e o f th e legs o f th e re in d
e e r’s Ik in , th e h a ir o u tw a rd s, o rn am e n te d w ith flips o f c lo th o f
various colours, fewed o n th em . T h e p an ta lo o n s o f th e w om e n ,
lik e th o fe o f th e m e n , ferve in fte ad o f {lockings, a n d are m ad e o f
kerfey o r o th e r c lo th , o r o f ik in s from th e re in -d e e r’s legs, b u t
very feldom o f ta n n e d le a th e r. T h e w om e n ’s ihoes are always
m ad e o f th e ik in o f th e re in -d e e r’s legs, w ith u p p e r-le a th e rs o f th e
fam e ; th o fe o f th e m o u n ta in s p re fe rrin g ik in s o f a. w h ite colour.
T h e belts o r girdles o f th e w om e n are o f le a th e r o r c lo th , em -
b e lliih ed w ith plates o f tin : from th e girdle han g s d ow n a fm aller
b e lt, o rn am e n te d w ith brafs, w h ic h has a n um b e r o f d ifferent little
th in g s , an d am o n g others, brafs rings h a n g in g from i t : th e b e tte r
fo rt o f w om e n hav e girdles bed eck ed in like m a n n e r w ith filver.
T h e w om e n wear over th e ir ih o u ld e rs kerchiefs, o r m an tle s o f
Ru ffian lin e n , o r o f co tto n , fom etime s w h ite , a n d fom etime s
p rin te d in colours ; th e y alfo m ak e ufe o f n a rrow aprons o f R uffia
V o l . Hr Z lin en