is fewed a n a rrow ftrip e , o r b o rd e r o f c lo th o r f u r ; an d o n th e rig h t,
efpecially o n th e w om a n ’s tu n ic k , fm all filver knobs g i l t : th e
cuffs o f th e fleeve are lik ewife covered w ith a b o rd e r o f kerfey, or
o th e r c lo th , edged w ith o tte r’s Ik in : a b o rd e r o f th e like k in d
w ith th a t ro u n d th e b re a ft a n d cuffs o f th e lleeve is fewed ab o u t
th e b o ttom ; an d , as th e woolly fide o f th e ik in is tu rn e d inwards,
th e wo o l from w ith in is feen h a n g in g b e low th e b o rd e r. T h is
g a rm e n t, th u s fully defcribed, is w o rn b y th e L a p la n d e r n e x t his
ik in , an d , as has b e en already obferved, in fte ad o f a ih irt.
T h e u p p e r c o a t u fed b y th e m e n is m ad e o f kerfey, o r fome
fu c h coarfe c lo th ; o r o th e rw ife o f th e Ik in o f th e re in -d e e r, e ith e r
old o r y o u n g , o f a grey co lour. T h is p a r t o f th e drefs is called
by th e L a p la n d e rs kafte, a n d is pro v id ed , like th e tu n ic k , w ith an
u p rig h t ftiffened collar, e x te n d in g to th e c h in , an d fu rro u n d in g
th e n e ck . T h is collar is w o rk e d w ith th re a d s o f d ifferen t colours,
in a very n e a t m an n e r. T h e co a t, as th e tu n ic k , is open o n ly a t
th e breaft, an d b o u n d like i t w ith k e riey , o r iom e o th e r io r t o f
c lo th o f various colours. O n each ih o u ld e r is a k in d o f b a n d o r
e p au le tte , c u t in d iffe ren t forms, an d o f th e fame fluff. T h e
low e r e x trem ity o f th is c o a t is worked in figures w ith various colo
u red th read s. T h is bo rd e r, o r frin g e, is called in th e L a p la n d
to n g u e lujkuldalk. T o tie th e collar clofe a b o u t th e n e ck , a ru n -
n in g ftrin g is u ied . T h e collar, th e o p e n in g a t th e breaft, an d
th e ih o u ld e r-b an d , are all formed o f flips o f various coloured
c lo th s, a n d worked w ith th re ad s o f different hues : th e cuffs o f
th e fleeve are o rn am e n te d in th e fame m a n n e r ; th e b o ttom
o f
o f th e c o a t h as lik ew ife a b o rd e r e x te n d in g ro u n d it, a n d o f a
differen t colour ; for ex am p le, i f th e co a t be o f red k erfey, th e
b o rd e r is y e llow, g re en , o r w h ite . T h e L ap lan d e r has n o p o c k e t
to his up p e r coat, b u t in fte ad th e r e o f carries a little bag, h a n g in
g over his b re aft, in w h ic h h e p u ts his im p lem e n ts for lig h tin g
a fire, w h ic h h e is n ev er w ith o u t, a n d o th e r th in g s o f c o n fta n t
ufe ; a n d th is bag h e calls his niufal-gierdo.
T h e cold in this p a rt o f th e world , d u rin g th e w in te r, is m o ft
in ten fe. A fingle in ftan c e o f i t w ill b e fu ffic ien t to illu ftra te this,
n am e ly , th a t th e lakes a n d rivers are gen era lly fro z en to th e th ic k -
n e fs o f tw o D a n iih ells an d a n half. I t m u f t, h ow ev e r, be re m
a rk e d , th a t w h e n th e re is m u c h fn ow u p o n th e g ro u n d , th e
froft does n o t p e n e tra te fo deep. I t is o n a c c o u n t o f th is e x tra o
rd in ary degree o f cold, t h a t th e L ap lan d e rs are u n d e r th e n e c e f-
fity o f cov erin g th e ir bodies w ith furs a n d ro u g h ik in s o f differen t
an im als. T h e u p p e r c o a t, m ad e o f th e Ik in o f a full g row n re in d
e er, is called by th e n atives paefi. B u t th e ik in o f th e fema le is
generally preferred for th is p u rp o fe , a n d w o rn w ith th e h a iry fide
tu rn e d o u tw a rd s, w h ic h gives th e c o a t a ru g g e d a n d u n c o u th a p pe
aran ce . T h e fe fu r g a rm e n ts are n o t le ft o p en a t th e b re aft, b u t
are m ad e in tire . R o u n d th e n e ck is a b o rd e r o f ik in w ith th e
h a ir on , called th e paejk-lok. T w o th o n g s o f th e re in -d e e r h id e ,
w ith toffels o f ih red s o f differen t co loured c lo th , ferve to b rin g th e
c o a t clofe to th e ih o u ld e rs. T h is c o a t has likewife a h ig h f tif f
collar, m ad e o f th e fame Ik in , w ith th e h a ir on . T h e ufe o f th is
u p p e r co a t is as a defence from r a i n ; a n d i f i t b e w o rn , as i t
Y 2 o ften