S E C T IO N V.
Of the Dreß of the Laplanders, both Male and Female.
C O M E w rite rs have affirm ed , th a t th e L a p la n d e rs w e a r dreffes
o rn am e n te d w ith gold a n d fdver ; o th ers ag ain have as c o n fid
en tly afferted, t h a t th e ir c lo th e s are m ad e w ith th e ik in s o f
feals an d bears, a n d lh ap e d in a m a n n e r to give th em th e ap p ea ran
ce o f w a lk in g in facks. B u t th e fe a c c o u n ts a re n o t to be re ga
rd ed , an d are as foreign to th e t r u th , as t h a t o f a w rite r, w h o
declares th e w om e n in ' L a p la n d m ak e ufe o f veils wove o f th e
finews an d e n tra ils o f w ild animals.
M r. L e em s begins his a c c o u n t o f th is m a tte r w ith d e fcrib in g
th e drefs o f th e m a n : o n his h e ad h e wears a c ap o f a co n ic al
lh ap e , re iem b lin g th a t o f a lugar-lo af. T h e fe caps are generally
m ad e o f red k e riey c lo th , a n d fo rm ed o f fo u r pieces, b ro ad e r a t
b o ttom th a n a t th e to p , w h e re th e y m e e t in a p o i n t : b e tw ix t
th e jo in in g s o f th e fo u r pieces a ftrip e o f ye llow k e rie y is iewed,
m a rk in g th e divifions a n d to th e to p o f th e cap is fixed a tofiel
o f ih reds o f d ifferent coloured c lo th . T h e low e r p a r t o f th e cap
h a s a b o rd e r o f o tte r ’s ik in ; b u t th e R u ffian L a p la n d e r trim s his
in a m o re expenfive m a n n e r, w ith e rm in e .
Som e tim es th e bord e r o f th e fe caps exten d s to fome le n g th b e fore
fore an d b e h in d , a n d ends in a p o i n t ; a n d a cap th u s iliap ed th ey
call in th e ir ow n lan g u ag e nindne kapperal, w h ic h m ean s a cap
w ith a nofc. T h e m iffionary fays, h e faw once a cap w h ic h b e longed
to a poor L ap lan d e r, a n d was m ad e o f a fa lm o n s Ik in ;
it was w h ite , a n d h a d fquare divifions, w h ic h were vifible w h e re
th e fcales h a d dropped from th e ik in .
T h e y we ar a fo rt o f rid in g -h o o d , called b y th em rivok, w h ic h
th ey ufe in h u n tin g , or in a tte n d in g th e tam e re in -d e e r w h ilft
feeding. T h is hood has o nly a fm all o p e n in g to look th ro u g h , is
clofe fewed u p before, an d w h e n i t is p u t o n th e h e ad covers th e
b re a ft an d lh o u ld e rs : in fro n t th e re appears a flap, w h ic h is called
zhialbme-raft.
T h e m e n in L a p la n d very rarely w e a r an y cov erin g a b o u t th e ir
necks, o r w h en ev e r th e y m ak e ufe o f lom e th in g like it, it confifts
o f a n a rrow piece o f c lo th , w h ic h o n ly goes o n c e ro u n d ; fo th a t
th e ir th ro a ts are always expofed n a k ed , o r.n e a rly fo, to th e feve-
rity o f th e w e a th e r.
T h e tu n ic k , o r clofe g a rm e n t, w o rn b y th e L ap la n d e r, is called
a tort, an d is m ad e o f ffieep’s Ik in w ith th e wool o n , the. woolly
fide b e in g . inwards : i t ha s a h ig h collar, m ad e f tif f w ith kerfey,
or o th e r c lo th , n e a tly w o rk ed w ith d ifferen t co loured thread s, a n d
e x te n d in g a little way d ow n th e b o ibm . As th is tu n ic k a t th e fame
tim e fcrves for a ih ir t, i t has no o p en in g b u t w h e re i t covers th e
b re aft ; a n d it is m ore or lefs o rn am e n te d , a c co rd in g to th e c o n d
itio n an d fancy o f th e wearer, w ith c lo th in lik e m a n n e r as th e
collar, an d bo rd e red w ith o tte r ’s ik in . O n th e le ft fide, in fro n t,
V o l . II. Y is