erratic but fixed Laplanders, or rather a Finniili colony eftablilhed
in Lapland. Thefe inhabitants of Kintafari preferve all the original
boldnels o f character, force and aflivity, by which the Fins
are diftinguilhed; whereas the unfettled and wandering. Laplanders
are remarkable for iloth and dirt.
Having returned to the river Pepojovaivi, we fell down by that
ftream to Kautokeino, where it empties itfelf into the river Alten,
after a courfe of forty Englilh miles from the place where we fet
out. T h e river Pepojovaivi is every where intercepted by lakes,
or, more properly fpeaking, it often fpreads and makes lakes,
which, being fringed with birch and fir-trees, offered the moft
pleafing views, and rendered our voyage very interefting and agreeable.
We were aftoniihed a t the incredible quantity of fifties
with which thofe lakes abound, and which leap every inftant to
catch infeits above the furface of the water. Our Laplanders
themfelves were furpriled at their abundance, and agreed, on their
return, to come there and let down their torn and ragged nets.
The cataraHs of the river Pepojovaivi were not at all confiderable,
nor were they in the leaft dangerous. Our good Finlanders, and
above all our pilot Simon of Kollare, would not have thought it
worth while to mention luch a voyage: but it was a very arduous
undertaking for our Laplanders, who found themfelves uhder em-
barraffments at every turn. Being inured to the navigation of ca-
tarafts, we could encounter their difficulties and dangers without
emotion, and were of courfe more fitted to extricate our company
ou t of any untoward circumftanee than the Laplanders, who,
without
without our affiftance, would probably on many occafions have
been diiheartened. They had not the leaft knowledge o f the
depth of a current from the appearance of the lurface, and of two
courfes presented to their option, they were always lure to chule
the worft and the Ihalloweft. Through their awkwardnefs and
ftupidity, we were obliged to pafs a confiderable part o f our journey
along the river on foot. I have not a doubt but our Simon,
through the cataradls of Muonio, would have difcovered with a
glance of his penetrating eye, fome place where the boats might
have palled in fafety. Two of our Laplanders came out of
their refpedlive boats, and in each one remained. One o f thofe
who landed drew the boat along by means of a rope made of the
bark of the birch-tree ; the other, with a rope made of the lame
materials, checked and moderated its motion when the current
was too rapid. If at any time the Laplanders who were on foot
on the banks of the river, chanced to fpy any plant of the angelica,
they would immediately run to gather i t ; and having their
hands full of this herb, they would rather lofe hold of the ropes
and let the boats ftrike on rocks, than quit the delicious vegetable.
Sometimes when we were in the boat, they would chatter among
themfelves at fuch a rate, or be immerfed fo profoundly in the
pleafures of the pipe, that they took no manner of notice of approaching
dangers; to which, of courfe, we were obliged to be
ourfelves attentive: and even when we did give them warning,
they would rather let the boats drive againft any obftacle, than interrupt
or difcompofe the bufinefs of eating angelica, or fmoking
tobacco.