not without much trouble that our interpreter fucceeded in quieting
their fears.
Among the Laplanders there was one whom they honoured
with the title of fchool-mafter. This appellation gave me a high
idea of Kautokeino ; and I expefted to meet with another parfon,
like the one of Muonionifca, who fhould come to tafte our brandy,
and fpeak a little Latin, mixed with the Lapponic: but the mi-
nifter of Kautokeino happened at this time to be abfent. He had
gone, I underftood, into Norway, to tarry fome time with his relations.
T h e minifters, or miffionaries, do not ufually remain in
Lapland during the fummer months. W e took poffeffion of the
prieft’s houfe, or rather chamber, for it confifted only of one apartment.
Being thus lodged, and fomewhat recovered from our fatigues,
we were in a condition better qualified to become acquainted
with the village of Kautokeino, where we recognifed
ourfelves as fubjeft to the laws of Denmark.
T h e firft thing we did was to pay our Lapland attendants. But
before we gave them their difmiffion, we were determined to
make an experiment of their talents in another fpecies of knowledge
than any in which we had yet tried them. W e defired to
hear them fing, being anxious to have a ipecimen of their fkill in
mufic. I attempted feveral times, both by the power of money
and of brandy, to make the paftoral Laplander utter his notes,
that I might form to myfelf, if poffible, fome idea of their mufic :
but theutmoft I could accomplilh was to extort from them fome
hideous cries, during the continuance of which I was fometimes
obliged
obliged to flop my ears with my fingers. I t is fcarcely credible,
though it is perfectly true, that the mountain and wandering Laplanders
have not the leail idea of any thing conne&ed with harmony,
and that they are abfolutely incapable of an enjoyment
which nature has not entirely forbidden to any other tribe or nation,
as far as-I have been informed. Artificial mufic appears to
be wholly baniihed from thofe forlorn and folitary diftriits The
only mufical accents to be heard in Lapland are thofe which nature
has indifcriminately beftowed on all other countries, without,
any regard to man, whofe pride induces him to believe th a t every
thing in the world is made for him alone. The only melody to be
heard in L apland is th a t with which the birds make the woods reecho
; th a t o f the rivulets ruffling over their pebbly beds; that of
the winds refounding amidft the branches o f trees and the deep
gloom of forefts; and laffly, that of the majeftie fall of rivers over
rugged rocks, where the waters break with a craihing noife, and
fend up their foam to the clouds. Bu t that I may not leave my
reader altogether without an idea of Laplandiih finging, fuch as it
is, or rather of the vociferation of the wandering Laplanders, I
ihall prefent them with two fpccimens, which I find preferved in
my portfolio, among the various notifications of my journey. I
put them on paper, while thofe poor creatures were itraining their
throats, and the mufic is to be feen in the Appendix. They were
taken down without any regard to time or meafure, becaufe they
had n one; nor are they fo long by a third part as the original
fongs, becaufe there was nothing but a continued repetition of
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