amazing velocity of the current, feem to confpire to its d e tra c tion.
You cannot perform this paffage by Amply following the
ftream ; but the boat mult go with an accelerated quicknefs,
which fhould b e a t leaft double to that of the current.- Two
boatmen, the molt a ¿live and robuit that can be found, mull ufe
their utmoft exertions in rowing the whole time, in order that the
boat may overcome the force of the ftream, while one perfon is
ftationed at the helm to regulate its direftion as circumftances
may require. The rapidity of this defcent is fuch, that you ac-
complilh an Engliih mile in the fpace of three or four minutes.
The man that manages the rudder can, with difficulty, fee the
rocks he muft keep clear of: he turns the head of the boat di-
re&ly in the line of the rock he means to pafs, and when he is in
the very inftant of touching it, he fuddenly makes a fharp angle
and leaves it behind him. The trembling paffenger thinks that
he fhall fee the boat dafhed in a thoufand pieces, and the moment
after he is aftoniihed at his own exiftence. Add to all this, that
the waves ruih into the boat from all fides, and drench you to the
fkin ; while, at other times, a billow will daih over the boat from
fide to fide, and fcarcely touch you. It is a fituation which pre-
fents danger in fuch frightful fhapes, that you could hardly open
your eyes and refrain from trembling, though a perfon with the
greateft certainty fhould affure you that you would not fuffer any
harm. Several people, however, have perifhed in this place ; and
there were but two men in the village of Muonio who thought
themfelves qualified to conduit the defcent: thefe were an old
man of fixty-feven years of age, and his fon of twenty-fix. The
old boatman bad known this paffage twenty years, and navigated it
always with fuccefs, and in the courfe of that period he had taught
his fon his own dangerous calling. It is impoffible to conceive
any thing more ftriking and interefting than the collected and intrepid
expreffion of the old man's'countenance in the progrefs of
the paffage. As our refolution to defcend this cataradl was not
adopted raihly, but after a minute enquiry and cool reflection, we
were prepared to obferve the detail o f our adventure in its mod
trifling circumftances. The old man never fat down, but flood
upright, holding the rudder with both hands, which was tied on
purpofe for the occafion to the ftern of the boat. In paffing the
fmaller catarads, they defcend with the rudder untied, which
they hold between their arms, and fit all the while. When we
were in the moft critical moments of the paffage, we had only
to caft our eye on the old man’s countenance, and our fears almoft
.inftantly: vanifhed. In places of lefs difficulty he looked
round to his fon, to obferve if he had proceeded with fafety. It
was plain his thoughts were more occupied about his ion than himfelf;
and indeed the young man grazed the rocks on two different
occafions. As foon as all danger was over, we drew in to the ihore
to repofe and enjoy the triumph of our fuccefs. It was then we
remarked that the fon, who had piloted the fecond boat, looked
extremely pale through terror ; and my companion’s fervant, who
had been in his boat, informed us that they had received two violent
fhocks, and that on both occafions he gave himfelf up for loft.
C 2 CHAP