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CHAPTER VI.
Beagle sails with Paz and Liehre—Part company—Beagle visits Buenos
AjTes—Nautical remarks on the Plata—Sail from Monte Video for
San Bias—Lieut. Wickham and tenders—Butterflies—Sail for Tierra
del Fuego—White-water—Icebergs—Rocks-Cape San Sebastian—
Oens-men—Cape San Diego—Good Success Bay—Natives—Guanacoes—
Cape Horn—St. Martin Cove—Gales—Heavy Seas—Nassau
Bay—Goree Road—Prepare to land Matthews and the Fuegians.
18th October. No person who had only seen the Paz and
Liehre in their former wretched condition, would easily have
recognised them after being refitted, and having indeed almost a
new equipment. Spars altered, and improved rigging, well-cut
sails, fresh paint,* and thorough cleanliness, had transformed
the dirty sealing craft into smart little cock-boats: and as they
sailed out of Port Belgrano with the Beagle, their appearance
and behaviour were by no means discouraging.
A t dusk. Lieutenant Wickham and his small party of venturous
associates separated from us, and steered into False
Bay.f The Beagle anchored for the night, and next day pursued
her route towards Monte Video, where she arrived on the
26th.
Desirous of communicating with the Government at Buenos
Ayres, and measuring the difference of meridians between that
city and Monte Video, we weighed anchor on the 31st, proceeded
up the river, and remained in the outer roadstead, off
Buenos Ayres, until the 10th of November. We then employed
three days in verifying the positions of some banks,j;
as laid down in Hey wood’s and other charts, and returned to
Monte Video on the 14th.
* Or rather red-ochre, coal-tar, and white-wash;
t See orders to Lieut. Wickham, in the Appendix,
t Ortiz, Chico, and Ensenada.
I t is not prudent for any vessel drawing more than ten feet
water to remain under sail in this part of the river, while it is
dark, unless a good pilot is on board ; and even the best practical
experience is not always a sure guide, so uncertain and
fluctuating are the currents and depths of water. There are
a few simple precautions, useful in such circumstances, of
which I may be excused for reminding young sailors. A
ground-log ought to be hove frequently, and compared with a ,
common log; there should be a leadsman in each chains, one,
at least, of whom should sound constantly : the deep-sea lead*
ought to be used now and then, even in shallow water, as a
check upon the hand-lead : from the vessel’s draught of water
to two fathoms more than that depth, the hand-line should he
marked to feet, by alternate marks of dark-coloured hair and
small line : strong lanterns should be suspended under the
chain-wales, near the water, hut close to the ship’s side; while
a careful person ought to superintend the leadsman, and occasionally
take a line into his own hand, so that by ‘ plumbing ’
the bottom himself he may ascertain how far reliance is to be
placed upon the leadsman’s opinion.
In the Plata, as well as in many other pilot-waters, to
feel the ground thus is often more useful than knowing the
precise depth of water, or even the colour, or nature, of the
bottom.
27th Nov. Our arrangements and observations being satisfactorily
completed, a sufficient quantity of provision on board
to last eight months, at full allowance, and an extra supply
of iron and coals for the forge, in case of any serious
accident, the Beagle sailed from Monte Video; and, after
filling water near Cape Jesu Maria,! hastened to look after her
little assistants, left near Bahia Blanco.
In this trip we benefitted by the assistance of Mr. Robert
N. Hamond, an early and much esteemed friend of mine,
who was lent to the Beagle from H.M.S. Druid, of which he
was then a mate.
* Massey’s is preferable,
t Above Monte Video, on the north shore.
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