CHAPTER II I.
Ready for sea—Detained—Sail from England—Well provided—Bay of
Biscay — Compasses — Local attraction — Eight Stones—Madeira—
Deception—Squall—Teneriffe — Santa Craz—Quarantine—Squalls—
Cape Verd Islands—Port Praya—Produce—Archilla—Bad season—
S t Paul Rocks — Cross Equator — Fernando Noronha.— Bahia —
Slavery—Abrolhos—Cape Frio.
I n November, the Beagle was ready for sea, but a succession
of hard gales from the westward prevented her leaving
England until the end of December. Twice she sailed, and
went a few leagues; yet was obliged to return in order to
avoid the risk of being damaged, or losing a boat, at the very
beginning of her voyage. At last the westerly gales seemed
exhausted, a dead calm succeeded, and, warned by the ap-
peai-ances so peculiar to easterly winds, we unmoored at daylight
on the 27th, and, as soon as the tide would allow, for
there was still no breeze, we warped from our sheltered and
picturesque retreat in Barn-pool, under that beautiful place
Mount Edgecumbe.
Vessels in the offing, and distant land ‘ looming’ much ; a
few mottled, hard-edged clouds appearing in the east; streaks
(mare’s tails) across the sky, spreading from the same quarter ;
a high barometer (30.3) ; and the smoke from chimneys rising
high into the air, and then going westwai'd; were the signs
which assured us of a favourable wind. A light ‘ cat’s paw’
rippled the water, we made aU sail, the breeze increased, and
at noon our little vessel was outside the Breakwater, with a
fresh easterly wind.
Of the bitter feelings experienced by most of us when every
sail was trimmed, and the land sinking fast from our view, I
will say nothing; yet there were enlivening hopes, and all were
glad to be freed from the tiresome uncertainty of tlie past
month, all were anxious to enter upon a voyage which, though
likely to be veiy long, promised much that would interest,
and excite, and perhaps rewai-d.
To the executive officers of a ship it is always a most satisfactory
feeling, independent of other thoughts, to be fairly
at sea, and away from the scenes of irregularity which so often
take place in ports. Those scenes, however, are now much less
offensive, and the sailor is far less heedless than he was formerly,
if we may take Fielding’s description as authority. That
humorous sensible author says, in one of the most entertaining
accounts of a voyage ever written, “ To say the truth, from
what I observed in the behaviour of the sailors in this voyage,
and compai'ing it with what I have formerly seen of them, at
sea, and on shore, I am convinced that on land there is nothing
more idle and dissolute ; but, in their own element, there
are no persons, near the level of their degree, who live in the
constant practice of half so many good qualities.”
Never, I beheve, did a vessel leave England better provided,
or fitted for the service she was destined to perform,
and for the health and comfort of her crew, than the Beagle.
I f we did want any thing which could have been carried, it
was our own fau lt; for all that was asked for, from the Dockyard,
Victualling Department, Navy Board, or Admiralty,
was granted.
To mention the names of those to whom my shipmates and
myself felt most grateful for attention to requests, and for a
kind foresight of our future wants, may be unnecessaiy, some
may think improper ; yet, at the risk of offending, I must try
to express the gratitude that I, and those who sailed with me
in the Beagle, owe to Sir James Graham, Sir Thomas Hardy,
Captain Beaufort, Commissioner (now Admiral) Ross, Sir
Robert Seppings, Sir James Gordon, the late Sir Manley
Dixon, and Sir William B u rn e tt: less I cannot say, more
might be displeasing.
The wind increased, and drove us onwai’ds into the Atlantic
as fast as a heavily laden small vessel, with her ‘ scuppers’
in the water, could be forced. We steered as southerly a course
as was safe, in hopes of keeping the east wind longer, and the