STllAXAGEM SCENERY— CATTLE.
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overpowered if they remained, opened the gate in the dead of
the night and escaped. Thus began this famed insurrection,
which caused the destruction of seven towns, and drove every
Spaniard from Araucania.
Leaving the low land near the sea, we ascended sloping
hills, and found ourselves in a beautiful country. Though I
did not see it distinctly until my return, I will endeavour to
describe it in this place :—the outer range of hills, near the
sea, is a succession of downs, free from wood, except here and
there in the valleys, and every where covered with short sweet
grass :—there is no sandy or barren rocky land. Numbers of
fine cattle were seen grazing in the neighbourhood, but very
few sheep. In-shore of the downs is a very luxuriant country :
gradually rising hiUs, every where accessible ; extensive valleys,
woods of fine timber trees, very little encumbered with
underwood ; spaces of clear grass-land, like fields ; beautiful
lakes, and numerous streams of excellent water, together with
a rich soil clothed with sweet grass, disposed me to think this
the finest country I had ever seen.
Generally speaking, the soil is clayey ; but there is every
where a layer of vegetable mould upon the surface; which
indicates that the country was covered with wood until the
Indians partially cleared it by burning. While they were so
numerous as they are said to have been in the sixteenth century,
large tracts of ground must have been cultivated by them, or
cleared for their sheep. In riding across this now unemployed
land, regretting at every mile that it should be so neglected, fine
bullocks often crossed our path ; or wild-looking, but well-
conditioned troops of horses. These animals must be very
nearly wild : for restrained by no fences, looked after by nobody,
they are free to roam and feed where they please. Once
only in a year they are driven together, if they can be found,
to be counted, marked, or killed. Here and there a stray cottage,
or rather hut, was seen, with a high thatched roof, like
those of Chilóe. But for these cottages, and a field or two near
them, this excellent country would have appeared to be quite,
deserted by the human race, though possessing every desirable
quality. We passed over no hills of any consequence as to
height, though generally we were ascending or descending. An
in-shore circuit was taken, to avoid crossing three rivers, which,
near the sea, are difficult to pass ; and having lost our way
(notwithstanding the alleged excellence of our guide), a native,
almost Indian, was easily prevailed upon to run by the side of
our horses until he put us into the right track. Before running
through the bushes, he carefully tucked up his loose trousers
as high as possible; thinking, I suppose, that his skin was less
likely to be torn than the trousers; and thus bare-footed and
bare-legged he ran before us for several miles with the greatest
ease. At the cottage from which he came, a very good horse,
in excellent condition, and well cleaned, was standing in a yard.
I asked the owner to let me liire or buy him, but he would
consent to neither ; alleging that, in the Indian country, his life
depended upon having a good horse close at hand. Three
thousand Indians had assembled, he told me, and were expected
to make an attack upon the Chilian frontier; but on
what particular part was quite uncertain. They had heard of
the wreck, and were actually going to the place to plunder
the crew, when accidentally met and driven back by Colipi,
with his friendly tribe. Dogs seem to be kept at these cottages
for the same purpose as those at the ‘ ranchos,’ in the Pampas,
namely, to give warning of the approach of enemies. Small
parties of Indians seldom or ever attack a house without
reconnoitring carefully ; and this they cannot effect if there
are many dogs about.
After our running guide had left us, though put into the
right track, we were soon at a loss again; so numerous were
the tracks of horses and cattle in this rich pasture land. The
professed guide whom we had brought from Arauco, was more
useful in recovering half-tired horses, than from knowing the
way : no sooner did he get upon a horse, which one of my
party could not persuade to go out of a walk, than he started
off at full gallop, exulting in his skill. Perhaps his secret lay
in a sharp pair of iron spurs: for the thick skin and coarse
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