434 C O L C D R A — G O B E l f N A D O R — H O R S E S . June
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which we were obliged to lead our liorses, we ascended the
heights of Colcura. For our reward, after a muddy scramble
up to the top of a steep hill, we looked down upon a fine though
but partially wooded country, forming an agreeable succession
of valleys and high grounds ; while to seaward there was an
extensive view of the coast, with the island of Santa Maria in
the distance.
Perched on a height overlooking the sea, and directly above
a very snug Httle anchorage, is the hamlet called Colcura; and
thither we hastened, inattentive to the complaints of our guide
(who was likewise guardian of the horses), and trusting to
Vogelborg’s recollection of the road. Riding into a sort of field
entrenchinent at the top of Colcura hill, we were accosted by
a sly-looking, sharp-visaged character, whose party-coloured
jacket appeared to show that its owner held some office of a
mlHtary nature, but whether that of ‘ cabo,’* or a higher, I
could not determine until I heard him say he could give
ns a good meal, and that he had three fine horses near the
house ; when at once styling him ‘ gobernador’ I rebuked myself
for having thought ill of his physiognomy, and proceeded
to unsaddle. Disappointed, however, by a scanty bad meal, we
thought to regain our tempers upon the backs of our host’s
horses; but not an animal had he sent for; nor, to our further
vexation, could any inducement tempt him to lend one of
those fine horses, which, he still said, were close by. The Indians,
he declared, were expected daily; he knew not the
moment he might have to fly for his life; on no condition
would he lend a horse: no, not if a fleet of ships were wrecked,
and I were to offer him an ounce of gold for each mile that his
horse should carry me.
Every Chilian residing on the frontier endeavours to keep
by him a good horse, on which to escape, in case of a sudden
attack of the Indians; for, as they never give quarter, and
approach at a gallop, it is highly necessary to he always prepared.
Those who can afford to do so, keep horses solely for
the purpose of escape, which are the finest and the swiftest
they can procure. I remember hearing, that when General
* Corporal,
ms. V I L L A G R A N — E R C I L L A . 435
Rosas was carrying on a war of extermination against the
Pampa and Patagonian Indians, on the banks of the rivers
Colorado and Negro, he had with him horses so superior, that
it was said he could always ensure escape, if by chance he
should be pursued : and one of them was invariably led ahout,
saddled and bridled, near his tent.
Saddling our own steeds, and quitting the thin-faced dispenser
of tough hens and sour apples, we set off at a gallop,
leaving the lazy guide whom we brought from Talcahuano, to
return there with the two worst animals (it was fortunate indeed
we had brought with us a spare one), and in two hours we
reached the foot of Villagran ; that hill so famed in Araucanian
story.
Being a natural barrier, it was a spot often chosen by the
Araucanians, at which either to lie in ambush for the Spaniards,
or openly oppose them. In one battle, the brave Villagran,
after whom this ridge of hills is named, and a small
Spanish force, opposed a multitude of Indians who had hemmed
them in on every side. The only opening by which Villagran
could escape, was stopped up with a barrier of branches
and fallen trees, behind which the Indians stood discharging
arrows and slinging stones. Ercilla gives an animated description
of this scene ; but as his book is scarce, I will attempt a
free translation of that passage, lame as it must necessarily be.
-------------------- the veteran Villagran,
Heedless of any kind of death,
Hazarded all upon a cast.
He rode a stately powerful horse.
Purest of Spanish blood-—
Strength and activity were well combined
In that courageous steed—
Swift and high-spirited, he yet obeyed
The slightest touch of finger on the rein.
The danger reached—instant as thought—
The warrior’s spurs excite the noble brute—
He dashes on—and down the barrier goes.
A deafening crash and dire dismay
Followed, as onward tore their way
Those few determined men.
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