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there in earlier years, when its existence was hardly known.
We found the current setting towards the north-west, as I
had been led to expect ; but, from what I could observe,
during our stay, as well as from oral information, I am led to
believe that the current only sets strongly during about tbe
last half of the flood tide, and the first half of the ebb ; and
that during the other six hours there is little or no current;
as is the case off Cape Horn, and in many other places.*
Our passage to the Mauritius was slow, but in smooth water.
Tropic birds, a few terns, and gannets were seen, at intervals,
when passing the neighbourhood of tbe Chagos Islands, and at
our approach to the island Rodi'iguez. We anchored in Port
Louis, at tbe Mauritius, on the 29th- of A p ril: sailed thence
on the 9th of May: passed near Madagascar—thence along the
African shore—and anchored in Simon’s Bay, at the Cape of
Good Hope, on the Slst. From that well-known place we
went to St. Helena, Ascension, Bahia, Pernambuco, the Cape
Verde Islands, and the Azores; and anchored at Falmouth, on
the 2d of October, after an absence of four years and nine
months from England.
From Falmouth we went to Plymouth ; and thence, calling
at Portsmouth, to the Thames. On the 28th our anchor was
let go at Greenwich; and, after the chronometer rates were
ascertained, the Beagle dropped down to Woolwich, where she
was paid off on the 17th of November.
Greenwich was the last station at which observations were
made; and, singularly enough, Mr. Usborne and his companions
came on board as we anchored there. Independent of
the gratification of meeting them again, after so wide a separation,
it may be supposed how my mind was relieved by his
safe return from a very successful expedition, in which he had
surveyed the whole coast of Peru, from Atacama to Guayaquil,
without loss or accident. Although his own life was
seriously risked on two or three occasions, by shots fired under
misapprehension ; I must not omit to mention that hostilities
• Varying from three parts, to one-quarter of a tide difference between
the time of low water aud the beginning of flood stream.
were suspended for a whole day, at Arica, between the land-
forces and an attacking squadron, in order that Mr. Usborne
might carry on his operations. Throughout the survey of the
Peruvian coast, the cordial assistance of Mr. Wilson, Chargé
d’affaires at Lima, was found to be of paramount consequence.
I would now speak of the steady support and unvarying
help which I received from the officers of the Beagle : but
where all did so much, and all contributed so materially to the
gatherings of the voyage, it is unnecessary to particularise,
farther than by saying that Mr. Stokes’s services hold the
first place in my own estimation.
In this long voyage, rather exceeding that of Vancouver,
fatal disease was unknown, except in the lamented case of
the purser, and in that mentioned at Rio de Janeiro ; neither
of which had the least reference to the particular service on
which the Beagle was employed : and it is perhaps remarkable,
that while the Beagle was in commission, between February
1829 and November 1836, no serious illness, brought on or
contracted while on service, happened on boaa-d ; neither did
any accident of consequence occur in the ship ; nor did any
man ever fall overboard during all that time.
The freedom from illness must be attributed, under Providence,
to active employment, good clothing, and wholesome
food,* in healthy, though sometimes disagreeable climates :
and our immunity from accident# during exposure to a variety
of risks, especially in boats, I attribute, referring to visible
causes, to the care, attention, and vigilance of the excellent
officers whose able assistance was not valued by me more than
tbeir sincere friendship.
• See Appendix, No. 48.
t Excepting that mentioned in vol. i. p. 445.
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