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used. Tliere are objections to it, by no means insuperable,
which have alarmed people, and checked the working of those
mines. It is said to be very bituminous—that it burns too
quickly to ashes to answer well for smith’s work, hecause it
does not give heat enough—and that it is liable to spontaneous
combustion. The last objection might be removed hy keeping
the coal under water,* and cokingf would render it available
for the forge. Some geologists say that it is ‘ mere lignite,’
and think very lightly of its quantity or value; but practical
men will doubtless attach some value to what has been proved
by experience.
On the 17th of April, the Beagle sailed from Concepcion
Bay, examined Coliumo, and, coasting along, anchored off
the Maule River on the 20th. In a very thick fog, during
the night of the 19th, while carrying sail to get an offing, we
were within a fathom of being run down by a vessel crossing
us on the opposite tack. As both ships were under all sail,
and it was dark, our momentary sensations were far from
agreeable.
To land here was perplexing enough, for a heavy surf broke
on the bar of the river, and nearly as much along the shore;
but with some risk and difficulty we effected our purpose in
two light whale-boats, which could be hauled up directly they
touched the beach. Nearly all the population of a thriving
village, called Constitución, came down to meet us (on the
21st), and assist in hauling our boats up the steep though
yielding sand, where, for our comfort, they told us a whole
boat’s crew had been drowned, not long previously, in attempting
to land. From a height overlooking the river, village, and
neighbourhood, we enjoyed a very pleasing view, so long as
we turned away from the bar of the river, and the surf. A
rich country and a fine river are pleasing things at all times,
but the difficult approach to Constitución mars half its beauty.
Only the smallest craft can cross the b a r; it is dangerous
* I do not mean merely wet, but well saturated and covered with water
till required for use.
t It has been coked, and found to answer well.
for boats to land on the outer beach : and difficult for them to
profit by the few opportunities which occur of passing the bar
without risk.
Notwithstanding these local disadvantages. Constitución may
thrive wonderfully hereafter, by the help of small steamers,
for she has a most productive country around her, abounding
in internal as well as external wealth, and a navigable river at
command. Besides this, in 1805, a very practicable passage
was discovered through the Andes, about seventy leagues south
of Mendoza, not far from the latitude of the Biver Maule,
almost entirely level, and fit for waggons—the only pass of
such a description between the isthmus of Darien and Patagonia.
From the Maule we sailed along the coast northward; limited
time, and work in prospect urging us to hasten more than could
have been wished. The shoal, or rather rocks of Topocalma,
or Bapel, were examined; some coves looked at, fit only for
coasting launches, and the line of this bold, but uninteresting
coast tolerably well determined. Before sunrise, on the 22d,
we had a splendid view of the Andes—their range or cordillera
being unclouded, and distinctly visible from south-east
almost to north. The sharp summit of Aconcagua, 23,000 feet
above the sea level, towered high over any other.
At noon, on the 23d, we hove-to off Valparaiso, and sent
boats ashore. Mr. Darwin came on board, and among other
pieces of good news, told me of my promotion. I asked about
Mr. Stokes and Lieut. Wickham, especially the former ; hut
nothing had been heard of their exertions having obtained any
satisfactory notice at head-quarters, which much diminished the
gratification I might otherwise have felt on my own account.
Mr. Darwin returned to the shore, intending to travel overland,
to meet us at Coquimbo, his very successful excursion
across the Andes having encouraged him to make another long
journey northward.
On the 25th, we anchored in Horcon Bay, a place (by some
curious accident) entirely left out of all former charts,
although there is good anchorage, and a fishing village not far
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