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sure to weather. It is said by those who have had the most
experience there, that the climate of West Falkland is milder
than that of the Fastern large island. Probably the west winds
tu-e chilled in passing over the heights, and upon reaching
Port Louis are several degrees colder than when they first
strike upon the western islands. In Tierra del Fuego, and
many other places, the case is similar, the western regions
having a milder climate than is found about the central Oleastern
districts. Excellent harbours, easy of access, affording
good shelter, with the very best holding ground, abound among
these islands, and, with due care, offer ample protection from
the frequent gales.
In approaching the land, and especially while entering a
harbour, a careful look-out should be kept for ‘ fixed kelp,’
the seaweed growing on every rock in those places, which is
covered by the sea, and not very far beneath its surface. Lying
upon the water, the upper leaves and stalks show, almost as
well as a buoy, where there is a possibility of hidden danger.
Long stems, with leaves, lying regularly along the surface of
the sea, are generally attached to rocky places, or else to
large stones. Occasionally a few straggling stalks of kelp are
seen in deep water, even in thirty fathoms: many of which
are attached to stones, and so firmly, that their long stems
will sometimes weigh the stone adhering to their roots. Such
scattered plants as these need not be minded by a ship; but in
passing to windward of patches or beds of kelp, or rather in
passing on that side from which the stems stream away with
the current, care should be taken to give the place a wide
berth, because the only part which shows, when the tide is
strong, lies on one side of, not over the rocks. Where the
stream of tide is very strong this kelp is quite ‘ run under,’ or
kept down out of sight, and can no longer be depended on as a
warning. When a clear spot is seen in the middle of a thick
patch of fixed kelp, one may expect to find there the least
water.
Drift kelp, or that which is floating on the surface of the
sea, unattached to any rock or stone, of course need not be
avoided ; it may be known at a glance, by the irregular huddled
look which it has. Off the south-east shores of the Falklands
there are several rocky shallows, on which the sea breaks
heavily during south-east gales, though not at other times: all
those shallows are marked by kelp, and in one place, thus
indicated, not more suspicious in appearance than others, a
rock was found, almost ‘awash’ at low water.
Many wrecks have occurred, even on the land-locked shores
of harbours themselves, and in 1833-4, some of their remains
served as a warning to strangers to moor their ships securely :
but with good ground tackle, properly disposed, and the usual
precautions, a vessel will He in absolute safety, as the liolding-
ground is excellent: indeed, in many places so tenacious, that
it is exceedingly difficult to weigh an anchor which has been
some time down. Particular directions for making the land,
approaching and entering harbours, and taking advantageous
berths, will be found in another place; generally speaking,
the local pilotage is very simple.
The country' is remarkably easy of access to persons on foot;
but half-concealed rivulets and numerous bogs, oblige a
mounted traveller to be very cautious. There are no trees any
where, but a small bush is plentiful in many vallies. Scarcely
any view can be more dismal than that from the heights: moorland
and black bog extend as far as eye can discern, intersected
by innumerable streams, and pools of yellowish brown water.
But this appearance is deceptive ; much of what seems to be a
barren moor, is soUd sandy clay soil, covered by a thin layer
of vegetable mould, on which grow shrubby bushes and a
coarse grass, affording ample nourishment to cattle; besides
which, one does not see into many of the vallies where there
is good soil and pasture. Some tracts of land, especially those
at the south of East Falkland, differ in character, being low,
level, and abundantly productive of excellent herbage.
Mr. Darwin’s volume will doubtless afford information as to
the geological formation of the Eastern Falkland. He did not
visit the western island, but obtained many notices of it from
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