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542 GOOD FEKI.ING PILOTAGE.
I ever witnessed. To rae it was a beautiful miniature view of
a nation emerging from heathen ignorance, and modestly setting
forth their claims to be considered civilized and Christian.
We afterwards dined with Mr. Pritchard, his family, and
the two chiefs, Utaame and Taati. The behaviour of these
worthies was extremely good; and it was very gratifying to
hear so much said in their favour by those whose long residence
on the island had enabled them to form a correct judgment.
What we heard and saw showed us that mutual feelings of
esteem existed between those respectable and influential old
chieftains and the missionary families.
I t was quite dark when we left Papiete to return, by many
miles among coral reefs, to the Beagle; but our cat-eyed pilot
undertook to guide our three boats safely through intricate
passages among the reefs, between which I could hai'dly find
my way in broad daylight, even after having passed them several
times. The distance to the ship was about four miles ; and the
night so dark, that the hoats were obliged almost to touch each
other to ensure safety; yet they arrived on board unhurt, contrary
to my expectation; for my eyes could not detect any
reason for altering our course every few minutes, neither could
those of any other person, except the pilot, James Mitchell.
Had he made a mistake of even a few yards, among so many
intricate windings, our boats must have suffered (because the
coral rocks are very sharp and soon split a plank), though in
such smooth and shallow water, a wrong turning could have
caused inconvenience only to ourselves, for there was little or no
danger of more than a wetting.
The observations at Matavai being completed, I was enabled
to leave the place, and invited Hitóte and Mr. Henry (who had
returned with us) to pay another visit to Papiete in the Beagle,
and meet the royal party.
25th. At dayliglit this morning, while the Beagle’s crew were
unmooring and hoisting in the boats, I went to Mr. Wilson’s
school-house, then used also as a chapel—the old chapel having
been blown down by a violent gale of wind. Divine service
(a hymn, a long extempore prayer, and another hymn) was
performed. This is the established custom at all the missionary
stations at Otaheite on Wednesday mornings : on other mornings
one or two hours after daylight are employed in the schools.
The congi'egation was numerous, and very attentive. I noticed
that all the principal men of the district, besides Hitóte who
came from a distant part of the island, were present.
Mr. Wilson’s manner pleased me much ; it was the sincere,
and naturally impressive manner of a kind-hearted, honest
man, earnestly performing a sacred and paramount duty. I
went to see the new chapel after themorning-service was ended;
but only the floor-timbers and the posts for the roof were then
fixed in their places. The natives were irregular in their
work, sometimes doing much, at others little, just as they felt
disposed. Being a voluntary work, they took their time
about it.
Mr. Darwin and I breakfasted with Mr. Wilson at his
house: it happened that Mr. and Mrs. Henry were about to
make a journey to some distance; that a favourite son was
undertaking a new and difficult mission at the Navigator’s
Islands, and that we were both about to take leave of the pious
teacher of the heathen : and for each he asked a blessing, in
an extempore prayer of some length, the result of unaffected,
genuine piety. A kinder, or less exceptionable prayer, so far
as I could pretend to judge, than that unprepared one by
Mr. Wilson, I could not have wished to hear. That it was
unprepared I feel certain, because he had not expected us to
be present, and the manner in which our prospects were intermingled
with those of the others he mentioned, showed that
there was no premeditation. There was no affected expression,
or unusual tone : it was the sincere devout manner of a
pious plain-spoken man.
When under sail we tried to approach the entrance of
Papiete Harbour, but baffling winds prevented our anchoring
until three in the afternoon ; and then, anticipating the royal
visit, we tried to make such preparations as our little vessel
could accomplish. Dressing the ship with flags, and preparing
to man yards, was all we were able to do; salute we
could not, on account of the chronometers.
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