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is a dirty orange red, inclining to reddish brown above and
yellow beneath. These reptiles burrow in the earth like rabbits,
and are not bad eating. Of the black kind a vast number
run about the rocks near the sea, living either upon fish or
sea-weed. As we went afterwards in a boat along the ragged irregular
shore, we saw numbers of turtle. There are small sandy
beaches here and there, to which these animals approach in the
evenings: when, as it gets dark, they land and usually lie on
the beach during the night, even if it is not the season in which
they seek a place for their eggs.
From a height near Tagus Cove dismal indeed was the view,
yet deeply interesting. To see such an extent of country overwhelmed
by lava, to think of the possible effects of the seven
dormant volcanoes then in sight, and to reflect that at some
one period all was activity and dreadful combustion where we
then witnessed only silent desolation, was very impressive.
2d October. We passed this day and the following night in
Banks Bay. On the 3d, Mr. Mellersh returned, having examined
Elizabeth Bay and the western shore of Narborough
Island. We then went round the north-west end of Albemarle
Island, and passed the night under sail off the north extreme.
At daybreak, on the 4th, we made all sail towards
Abingdon Island, which is small, rather high, and tolerably
covered with stunted wood ; we did not maintain a position
even near where I wished to pass the night, but were carried
about forty miles away, dead to leeward, during only
a few hours of light wind. The current hereabouts runs
between one and four knots an hour to the north-westward,
yet the depth of the water is unfathomable by ordinary means:
excepting for which it is like a vast river in the sea.
6th. While working to windward, endeavouring to regain
our lost ground, we saw Bindloes Island : and passed through
many ripplings, some of them dangerous for a boat; these were
northward, and rather eastward of Abingdon. During the 6th,
other indications of a strong current were noticed, besides ripplings
such as these, which, in very deep water, and in the open
sea, are difficult to explain ; sometimes at night, while all
around was smooth and tranquil—a short, deep plunge suddenly
startled every one : but in a minute afterwards the ship
was again quiet. We continued to work to the southward in
order to reach James Island, and meet Lieutenant Sulivan.
7th. While working to windward we saw Towers Island,
which is different in appearance from all the other islands of
this archipelago, being low and flat. We passed it about
noon, and Bindloes at sunset. The latter has an irregular hilly
surface, partially wooded, but like the rest is a mass of lava,
and indurated sapdy mud.*
8th. The Beagle was close to James Island, a high, large,
and well-wooded tract of ground, or rather lava. IVe an
chored at the northern end, and a boat came alongside loaded
with fish, for there was a party of settlers here, detached from
Charles Island, whose employment was salting fish and extracting
oil from terrapin.# This oil is of a light colour,
and exceedingly good quality, being very like pure olive oil.
Lieutenant Sulivan returned with his party, and I then detached
Mr. Chaffers in the yawl, accompanied by Mr. Johnson
and six men, to examine Bindloes, Abingdon, and Towers
Islands. As Mr. Darwin anxiously desired to see as much as
possible of the productions of this central and large island,
he was landed, accompanied by Mr. Bynoe, besides his servant
and H. Fuller, to remain until the Beagle’s return. Although
there is abundance of water on the higher parts of this island,
so broken and dry are the lower grounds that it does not arrive
at the shore; at two places only can enough water for even
a boat’s crew be procured, in the dry season ; and for a ship
there is scarcely hope of a sufficiency. The poor fellows who
brought us the fish had been living so long upon terrapin, and
the produce of their lines, without any thing else, that half a
bag of biscuit (50 lbs.) which we gave them, appeared to-be
an Inestimable treasure, for which they could not sufficiently
thank us. We sailed in the evening, but made very little
* Of course much of the information given in these pages was collected
by the officers.
t They also salt the terrapin ; or tortoise.
VOL. II . 2 K
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