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of which the encouragement of our brother-seamen was no
trifling inducement.
While in harbour, a few alterations had been made in the
disposition of our guns and stores, as well as some slight
changes in the sails and rigging ; and as the Beagle’s equipment
afterwards remained unaltered, I will here briefly describe it.
She was rigged as a b a rk ; her masts were strongly supported
by squarer cross-trees and tops, and by larger rigging than
usual in vessels of her tonnage.* Chains were used where
found to answer, and in no place was a block or a sheave
allowed which did not admit the proper rope or chain freely.
There were large trysails between the masts, made of stout
canvas, with several reefs, and very useful we found them. On
the forecastle was a six-pound boat-carrón ade : before the ches-
tree were two brass six-pound guns: close to the bulwark on
each side of the waist were the ‘ booms;’ and amidships two
boats, on the diagonal principle, one stowed inside the other,
and as close to tliedeck as possible; being secured by iron cranks,
or supports. Abaft the main-mast were four brass guns, two
nine-pound, and two six-pound; the skylights were large ; there
was no capstan; over the wheel the poop-deck projected,
and under it were cabins, extremely small, certainly, though
filled in inverse proportion to their size. Below the upper
deck her accommodations were similar to, though rather better
than those of vessels of her class. Over the quarterdeck,
upon skids, two whale-boats, eight-and-twenty feet long,
were carried ; upon each quarter was a whale-boat twenty-five
feet in length, and astern was a dinghy.
A few leagues southward of the port is a good situation
for enjoying a general view of the picturesque mountains in its
vicinity. When near the shore one only sees those of an inferior
order; and it is not until an offing is gained that the bold and
varied outlines of the distant Organ Mountains,! the sharp
* Two hundred and forty-two tons.
t So called because they have a number of pinnacles, somewhat like
the pipes of an organ.
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peak of the Corcovado, and the singular heights over Tijuca,
can be seen at once. Whimsical allusion has been made to the
first Lord Hood in the name by which one of these heights
is called by English sailors ; and in their general outline is a
fancied resemblance to a huge giant lying on his back.
Off Santa Martha, a sort of Cape Spartivento, near which
one rarely passes without having a change of wind, if not a
storm, we were detained by strong southerly gales, which
raised a high sea. This extreme movement and delay I regretted
much at the time, on account of the chronometers; but the
sequel shewed that such motion did not afiect them materially,
and that alterations of their rates were caused chiefly, if not
entirely, by changes of temperature.
Gales in the latitude of Santa Martha generally commence
with north-westerly winds, thick cloudy weather, rain, and
lightning. When at their height, the barometer begins to rise
(having previously fallen considerably), soon after which the
wind flies round, by the west, to south-west, and from that
quarter usually blows very hard for several hours. But these,
which are the ordinary gales, blow from, or along the land, and
do not often raise such a sea as is sometimes found off this
coast during a south-east storm.
After a tiresome continuance of south-west winds, I became
anxious to make Santa Catharina, but before we could reach
it the wind changed, and enabled us to steer along the coast
towards the south. Having mentioned Santa Cathaiina, I
may as well add a few words to the many lavished in its praise
by voyagers of all nations; for it is, excepting Rio de Janeiro,
and perhaps Bahia, the best trading port on the east coast
of South America; and, considering its situation, capabilities,
and productions, is a place in which seamen must
always have an interest. Tt enjoys the advantages of a tem-
pesate climate; an extensive and accessible harbour; a most
fertile country, abounding in the necessaries of life; and a mei-
cantile position of much importance. The people are more
inclined to exert themselves than those in northern Brazil; a
difference arising partly, no doubt, from effect of climate;
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